Just flush it with brake fluid.
Martin
Martin
CK5
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86 Coal Burner ...
- Thread starter onedaatmc
- Start date
onedaatmc
1/2 ton status
won't all the rubber be toast like the inside of the master cylinders rubber boot is all gunked up and deformed ... doesn't oil make the rubber expand and thus fail , etc. ? I was told that now the oil has circulated through the system and everything is ruined and has to be replaced ... ?
onedaatmc
1/2 ton status
onedaatmc
1/2 ton status
No , but asked some mechanic over the phone and he said , she said all kinds of horse slop ... so I thought I'd ask here ... hate to be wrong , then slam into someone with a 7,000lb truck and a solid steel 500 lb bumper ... is that being too "OCD" or Obtuse ? ha
First where you live mechanics like to stick it in and break it off. They like to replace every part when a pad slap would do. Is it a iron master cylinder? They always have a bit of crust around them. If you break loose all the bleeds and let the old fluid drain then refill with new and drain again it will be fine. Parts can go bad but usually from lack of use more than wear out. My truck weighs much more and goes up and down hills that make short little wheel based Toyotas cry. It stops on a dime. It does have a new master cylinder but otherwise it is nearly stock k30. Rockwell's are silly unless 54s are on line. They require a lot of lift and the brakes are stupid expensive. I realize you are all about clean and pretty but if you have to 100% line out everything you are going to hate this truck.
My buddies at the university are doing research on hydrophobic and hydrophillic surfaces for use in heat exchangers and lots of other uses. Not coatings, ablading the surfaces with a lazer. If brake parts are leaking replace them. The only parts I would really think about replacing just because would be the brake hoses.
FWIW, I dealt with the same issue last fall on my DD (with a closed-top/inaccessible M/C reservoir, so I couldn't easily extract the fluid from the top) by opening the bleeders and letting it drain out. No big deal, and no consequences have been noticed.
Given that the lines are full of old fluid, the bottom side of them could not easily have gotten contaminated with the new fluid. The fluid going in the top end goes back to the M/C when the pedal is returned. The fluid does not readily mix inside the brake lines. So whatever contamination you have will have to be toward the top end of the system.
How recently have you replaced these components? Are you due for an upgrade anyway? If not, I would simply drain out the bad fluid as previously suggested.
Given that the lines are full of old fluid, the bottom side of them could not easily have gotten contaminated with the new fluid. The fluid going in the top end goes back to the M/C when the pedal is returned. The fluid does not readily mix inside the brake lines. So whatever contamination you have will have to be toward the top end of the system.
How recently have you replaced these components? Are you due for an upgrade anyway? If not, I would simply drain out the bad fluid as previously suggested.
onedaatmc
1/2 ton status
I lent the burb out about a month ago , I don't know when the oil was added to the master cylinder, until I just happened to check it the other day , and noticed the rubber under the cap was extremely distorted and oily .... I then pointed my flashlight in the reservoir and could see the separate oil from the brake fluid..... so thats when I called the " mechanic" to ask ....so it could have been in the system , for a month ....as to your question ... I haven't replaced anything yet , as I've just found out literally 2 days ago . so it's sitting in front of my house, until I can figure what to do with the brakes... this is my extra vehicle , so it can just sit till I can fix it , fyi
I should also say I checked the master cylinder, when I had to slam on the brakes, the burb pulled hard left, making me even check the master cylinder ...
The master cylinder has nothing to do with it pulling to one direction or the other.
Martin
Martin
onedaatmc
1/2 ton status
fuse block diagram
ok well I'm gonna try the bleed deal when I can get a buddy to help...
while I'm waiting to do that ... now because all my guages don't work .... I think I need a rebuilt cluster... but this morning while re positioning the manual glow plug button to be attached on the lower dash via industrial velcro ... a blown fuse just happened to fall out of the fuse block ... making me think ... wha laa ... thats the guage 20 amp one... only problem is , where I think it goes, it just slides in and out and doesn't snap into place... so either I have it in the wrong hole ( thats what she said , ha ha ) or the fuse block holes connection for that slot have gotten loose ... so long story short I'm looking for a diagram of the fuse block for a 1986 K20 Diesel Suburban ... to no avail via google nor here on the search... so does anyone have a diagram so I can see whats what ?
ok well I'm gonna try the bleed deal when I can get a buddy to help...
while I'm waiting to do that ... now because all my guages don't work .... I think I need a rebuilt cluster... but this morning while re positioning the manual glow plug button to be attached on the lower dash via industrial velcro ... a blown fuse just happened to fall out of the fuse block ... making me think ... wha laa ... thats the guage 20 amp one... only problem is , where I think it goes, it just slides in and out and doesn't snap into place... so either I have it in the wrong hole ( thats what she said , ha ha ) or the fuse block holes connection for that slot have gotten loose ... so long story short I'm looking for a diagram of the fuse block for a 1986 K20 Diesel Suburban ... to no avail via google nor here on the search... so does anyone have a diagram so I can see whats what ?
onedaatmc
1/2 ton status
bled the brakes yesterday .... that fixed that , still need to fix the guage cluster
did it yesterday a buddy came by to help ... it fixed it , the bleeders were some rusty , so took those out and used a gas welder tip cleaner to ream those out ... but all better now ! Phuck the mechanics that wanted to charge me 2 grand...
did it yesterday a buddy came by to help ... it fixed it , the bleeders were some rusty , so took those out and used a gas welder tip cleaner to ream those out ... but all better now ! Phuck the mechanics that wanted to charge me 2 grand...
onedaatmc
1/2 ton status
so finally got my home made spare tire holder mounted....
onedaatmc
1/2 ton status
some guy in a prius , was just flashing his lights and getting me to pull over , ... so I did , and he said I hit him .... I said where ? ... he said "well I don't see it , but when you went by all I heard was my windows rattle" ... lol ... I said it's a no muffler Diesel ... it's loud... he said oh that must have been it ... doh ... then apoligized and wanted to shake my hand , which I didn't... ha ... I said get rid of that panzie prius and step up to a truck ... then split... what a dumb a$$...
onedaatmc
1/2 ton status
So I assume 6.2's are cold blooded ... the past couple days, I've tried to get the burrb started when it was in the high 30's, low 40's to no avail ... I have a manual glow plug switch, and the factory one is still wired in , well anyway , I've pushed that manual one for up to a minute , then cranked, cranked, and cranked and it won't start ... is there something else I can do to either check or do to get it to start ?
onedaatmc
1/2 ton status
How do I check those ? I know with a Multi meter , but how ? do I just touch the positive probe to the outside of the plugs and then black to frame to ground or , something else ?
Take all the wires off your glow plugs. Hook a test light to the positive side of your battey and go from terminal to terminal and see if the light illuminates. If it does not you need a new one. You should search to be sure but the current best plug I think it is a g60.
onedaatmc
1/2 ton status
ok thanks
