onedaatmc
1/2 ton status
Better pic ... up in the desolation Wilderness this past weekend
CK5
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86 Coal Burner ...
- Thread starter onedaatmc
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onedaatmc
1/2 ton status
anyone use this for a spare tire carrier ???
Needing to get that 36" swamper spare out of the back of the inside of the burb... so I've looked at the tire gate , but their $800 and have looked at new rear bumpers that are way more that have a swing out tirecarrier.... so I found this site that has a swing down tire carrier and although their mostly for fords, toyotas, etc. ... this mount is universal and only $350...
http://www.cbioffroadfab.com/produc...products/fold-down-tire-carrier-premium-model
Needing to get that 36" swamper spare out of the back of the inside of the burb... so I've looked at the tire gate , but their $800 and have looked at new rear bumpers that are way more that have a swing out tirecarrier.... so I found this site that has a swing down tire carrier and although their mostly for fords, toyotas, etc. ... this mount is universal and only $350...
http://www.cbioffroadfab.com/produc...products/fold-down-tire-carrier-premium-model
I haven't used the tire carrier, but the picture is awesome! 
onedaatmc
1/2 ton status
I haven't used the tire carrier, but the picture is awesome!
Thanks !
onedaatmc
1/2 ton status
so I opted to not buy the $350 tire mount...
But I bought the Curt mount for $75...but it's too short... so I got some 2" square tube, and some plate and welded it via my little Inverter welder with 7024 rod...the welds aren't the best , but'll work ... still need to drill 2 holes in the side of the plate ( upper for lock pin ) and (lower for bolt / hinge). But for around $100... it oughta work and will have a fold down tire carrier so I can still utilize the back of the burb...I assume just a bolt with flat washers will work for a hinge ???
this shows the bought mount , then the added length, etc. , fyi thought step mounting the 2x2's would be stronger than butting them ...
But I bought the Curt mount for $75...but it's too short... so I got some 2" square tube, and some plate and welded it via my little Inverter welder with 7024 rod...the welds aren't the best , but'll work ... still need to drill 2 holes in the side of the plate ( upper for lock pin ) and (lower for bolt / hinge). But for around $100... it oughta work and will have a fold down tire carrier so I can still utilize the back of the burb...I assume just a bolt with flat washers will work for a hinge ???
this shows the bought mount , then the added length, etc. , fyi thought step mounting the 2x2's would be stronger than butting them ...
onedaatmc
1/2 ton status
yeah sorry for the confusion ! when I started in the group I was advised to name my thread something that would get responders ... so I figured , it'll blow black smoke when stompin on the accelerator ... like a train burning coal ... ha ha
Mikey von
1/2 ton status
Nice looking Sub! 
onedaatmc
1/2 ton status
Nice looking Sub!
Thanks ... yours too ? ... love all the mods to your 6.2 you've done ! I wish ...I'm just trying to keep mine going , which it is , but not as beefy as yours !
onedaatmc
1/2 ton status
more mods planned for tire mount ???
so I haven't had the time yet to finish welding it up ... but I'm gonna be adding 2-2"wide x 5 or 6" long strips to have the coupler lock locking it upright, then at the bottom of those strips drilling the 5/8" hole for a bolt to act as the hinge, then another short piece to weld in front of the "arm" to stop movement forward, then more flat strap welded for a license plate mount, then 2 small pieces to cap the open ends of the square tubes....
Now all I gotta do after that is figure the thread size and bolts to mount the wheel...? or maybe it doesn't matter ... as long as they hold the wheel tight ? .... I know I over think things ... ha
I'm thinking about I suppose... grabbing the wheel lining it up to the mount figuring out where the bolt holes line up , then welding the back of the "studs" so there fixed.... wouldn't this be what you would do ???
I should have welded the top half to the other side of the pipe for clearance to the burb ... but I think welding a forward stop will keep it from slamming the burb's tailgate...I was just thinking ... I better fit it up to the wheel , and see if there's clearance issues... cause my spare is a 36" swamper and the width may end up hitting the tailgate anyway ... hmmm
But I bought the Curt mount for $75...but it's too short... so I got some 2" square tube, and some plate and welded it via my little Inverter welder with 7024 rod...the welds aren't the best , but'll work ... still need to drill 2 holes in the side of the plate ( upper for lock pin ) and (lower for bolt / hinge). But for around $100... it oughta work and will have a fold down tire carrier so I can still utilize the back of the burb...I assume just a bolt with flat washers will work for a hinge ???
this shows the bought mount , then the added length, etc. , fyi thought step mounting the 2x2's would be stronger than butting them ...
so I haven't had the time yet to finish welding it up ... but I'm gonna be adding 2-2"wide x 5 or 6" long strips to have the coupler lock locking it upright, then at the bottom of those strips drilling the 5/8" hole for a bolt to act as the hinge, then another short piece to weld in front of the "arm" to stop movement forward, then more flat strap welded for a license plate mount, then 2 small pieces to cap the open ends of the square tubes....
Now all I gotta do after that is figure the thread size and bolts to mount the wheel...? or maybe it doesn't matter ... as long as they hold the wheel tight ? .... I know I over think things ... ha
I'm thinking about I suppose... grabbing the wheel lining it up to the mount figuring out where the bolt holes line up , then welding the back of the "studs" so there fixed.... wouldn't this be what you would do ???
I should have welded the top half to the other side of the pipe for clearance to the burb ... but I think welding a forward stop will keep it from slamming the burb's tailgate...I was just thinking ... I better fit it up to the wheel , and see if there's clearance issues... cause my spare is a 36" swamper and the width may end up hitting the tailgate anyway ... hmmm
onedaatmc
1/2 ton status
dry run and finished welds...need drill press for 5/8 holes
Tried drilling a pilot hole with my hand drill and can only get so far ... need to find someone with a drill press ! ... lower 5/8 bolt for pivot point and upper 5/8 hole for locking pin. I may also run some angle iron as a stop forward on the mount ( I know the upper locking pin will do this ) , but figured double redundancy...
Tried drilling a pilot hole with my hand drill and can only get so far ... need to find someone with a drill press ! ... lower 5/8 bolt for pivot point and upper 5/8 hole for locking pin. I may also run some angle iron as a stop forward on the mount ( I know the upper locking pin will do this ) , but figured double redundancy...
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onedaatmc
1/2 ton status
Finished Mount ( Almost ) ...
Still need to cut the bottom back of the arm or the top back of the receiver some to let it go all the way down to the ground, I missed calculated a lil...
Still need to cut the bottom back of the arm or the top back of the receiver some to let it go all the way down to the ground, I missed calculated a lil...
onedaatmc
1/2 ton status
instrument Cluster-phuck ?
So gauges are starting to fail one after the other... I've replaced the only fuse in the fuse block for gauges... so I assume the cluster needs to be rebuilt, etc. ...not to seem dumb , but how does it come out ? I see the screws that remove the front cover ? I assume that's not all I do ??? I've looked online for how to, and there are lots on everything else but a 1986 chevy cluster removal ... so help please ??? also I assume I need to disconnect the batteries ... which one or do I disconnect both ?
So gauges are starting to fail one after the other... I've replaced the only fuse in the fuse block for gauges... so I assume the cluster needs to be rebuilt, etc. ...not to seem dumb , but how does it come out ? I see the screws that remove the front cover ? I assume that's not all I do ??? I've looked online for how to, and there are lots on everything else but a 1986 chevy cluster removal ... so help please ??? also I assume I need to disconnect the batteries ... which one or do I disconnect both ?
You don't have to disconnect the batteries.
If you do disconnect the batteries, you have to disconnect both.
The cluster is kind of tricky to get out. The speedometer cable has a clip you have to press down (towards the back of the cluster) and the cable will pop free. It will also (probably) have an additional wire attached to the speedometer. Just have to takethe screw loose, and it will come free.
Martin
If you do disconnect the batteries, you have to disconnect both.
The cluster is kind of tricky to get out. The speedometer cable has a clip you have to press down (towards the back of the cluster) and the cable will pop free. It will also (probably) have an additional wire attached to the speedometer. Just have to takethe screw loose, and it will come free.
Martin
If it was me I would pull the cluster and clean all the contacts. You are a detailer you should be good at cleaning. Then carefully remove the dust from the gauges, the paint likes to rub off. And polish out the lens. I am guessing the factory sender was bad on the oil pressure sender.
onedaatmc
1/2 ton status
I drove it at 75 the other day and I know it had more , but was a lil hairy on handing it at 75 ...
onedaatmc
1/2 ton status
ok ... lent the burb to a "friend" and they put oil , in the master cylinder... phuck
so I assume now I'll need to replace everything ? Master cylinder, calipers, brake lines, etc...
so if this is the case... maybe it's time to either sell it or upgrade it ...
How much of a bitch would it be to put rockwells in and would my tcase , etc. handle them ?
Also I assume all the susp would need to be swapped out , etc. ?
Or jst a swap out of a dana 44 instead of the 10 bolt, along with my 14 bolt full floater in the rear would be enough to handle 38's ?
so I assume now I'll need to replace everything ? Master cylinder, calipers, brake lines, etc...
so if this is the case... maybe it's time to either sell it or upgrade it ...
How much of a bitch would it be to put rockwells in and would my tcase , etc. handle them ?
Also I assume all the susp would need to be swapped out , etc. ?
Or jst a swap out of a dana 44 instead of the 10 bolt, along with my 14 bolt full floater in the rear would be enough to handle 38's ?
Seems excessive reaction.
Martin
Martin
onedaatmc
1/2 ton status
well if I now have to swap stuff out anyway ... now may be the time to upgrade is all I was thinking
