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86 Coal Burner ...

yes I replaced the guage fuse , to no avail, but will relook at it to see if it's blowing , etc. I have't checked the glow plugs yet , but will when I get a chance to...
 
yes... so as someone said i wouldn't have to change all the glow plugs , so does that mean if one works , it'll work ? I just don't see how they could all have blown out or stopped when last week when it was 65 degrees , It would start , and now at 40ish it won't ....
 
well ya think ? ha ... yes along with the other electrical stuff happening, glow plug on and off, etc.... would a new harness be worth it , instead of chasing down a short, etc. ? then you know it's all good , ya know ?
 
Idk, I have an 82 and 84 trucks with completely stock harnesses besides maybe a terminal correction each and a 79k30 frame/83 cab that works perfectly. I would just look at the wire for each sensor looking for shorts.
 
If the glow plug lamp isn't always lighting up,that could mean the manual switch or the glow plug relay is failing to deliver 12V to the glow plugs...cold glow plugs and a cold engine = no start..

I replaced the glow plug relay on my '85 Burb someone installed in place of the OEM one,its just a ford starter relay/solenoid,operated by a push button on the dash--but after doing so,the lamp on the dash still failed to light up--till I pushed the button switch about 10 times--then the relay went "clunk" and the lamp lit up...
It was the stupid switch the whole time,I guess the contacts got all corroded up inside from the truck sitting so long..:doah:..

I had been just jumping the two terminals on the relay with a screwdriver in the meantime,to let the glow plugs warm up,to get it to start...thought the relay was NG,but after I swapped another good one on it,it did the same thing--and testing the old one with a jumper wire,it works fine...lesson learned--test things first,before replacing!..

One thing I'd look at is on each glow plug,the wire connectors often turn green,so does the end of the wires -that will cut the amount of volts to the plug--I've had to snip a few off and put new female terminals on my pickup.....also there are two fusible links in the glow plug wiring where it splits off into a pair of 4 wires for each bank of cylinders--its not common,but those could fail if the wiring gets shorted to ground,or you leave the glow plugs on a long time and one or more is shorted..
 
fuse... replaced the fuse, the light with the manual glow plug switch doesn't light, but was able to get the burb started tonight ... ran it down the freeway and back , it's running fine . Because I'm losing gauge by gauge, I'm wondering if the ground is not grounding correctly ? , where is the main ground for the truck ? I assume that may be something to check, their is no drain on the batteries, they both checked at 12.75 volts, before starting, but something is making the gauges slowly but surely fail . now the panel lights work, but the panel does not ? so that wouldn't be the fuse I'd think ...but maybe their on a separate fuse, but can't tell whats what on the box, but have pulled every fuse and they all look good, so like I said maybe the ground is bad ?

Also clearly the glow plugs glow... cause its 45 degrees and they worked...

Your thoughts and help IS appreciated !!!
 
One more thing .... and I know this is gonna sound dumb to ya'll ... but as being this is my first diesel, and always still pump the accelerator at least once ... is that uncalled for , since the electric fuel pump is pumping , I hear it when I turn the key. So is one pump ok , or don't and just let it start ?
 
Pumping the pedal does nothing,it's not like a carbed engine that would squirt a shot of gas in from the accelerator pump every time you step on the gas pedal...any injected engine,diesel or gas,gets zero fuel until the fuel pump is "on" or the engine is being cranked over..

It is reccomended to depress the gas pedal a certain amount while cranking at different temps to get it to fire up easier--my pickup likes it held about 1/3 throttle when its over 45-50 degrees,and all the way to the floor if its below freezing...my Burb is fussier,I have to press the pedal down and let it back up while its cranking to find the "sweet spot" just past idle where you can hear it firing up most...

If you dash cluster lamps work ,then it is probably a bad ground --look under the dash for some black wires that are all connected to the same lug connector,on most square bodies they ground up near the E-brake assembly (and are hard to see and get at)--some had a "bus bar" block screwed to the firewall near the steering colum the ground wires go to...

Some trucks have separate fuses for the dash cluster lamps (labeled "LPS" on the fuse box),and one marked "Gauges" for the gauges themselves too...it's possible the printed circut that connects all the gauges on the back of the dash cluster is at fault too,its a flimsy plastic thing with copper strips that all the dash lamps and gauges are operated by..
 
I'll add that that the driver-side visors in my '83 and '84 rigs include instructions to hold the throttle 1/2-way down when starting above 32 degrees and all the way down when starting below 32 degrees. After a few years of experimenting around, I now tend to start with it fully depressed all the time, and I'm happy with the results. But you gotta back off when it stars running, or it will hit the rev limiter pretty quick. :doah:
 
so new problem ... found out my fuel pump metering valve is bad... I see that new ones are near $600... how much of a bitch are they to replace ? ... one mechanic I talked to said its 9 hrs labor, and have to break the heads off ... is this true ???
 
onedaatmc said:
so new problem ... found out my fuel pump metering valve is bad... I see that new ones are near $600... how much of a bitch are they to replace ? ... one mechanic I talked to said its 9 hrs labor, and have to break the heads off ... is this true ???
Click to expand...


woah, woah, woah...slow down. "Fuel pump" is too vague a description. Sounds like you are talking about the injection pump (vs. the lift pump, which is a $15 part), and entire IP rebuilds are somewhere in that ball park. You shouldn't hafta shell out that kinda money for any one part.

Head removal is not required, no matter what is wrong with the IP (was that mechanic familiar with this engine? :dunno:). Removing it for service is similar to removing a distributor (but more work, as it's buried under the intake manifold).

@AgDieseler just did a write up on the procedure a few weeks ago.

https://ck5.com/forums/threads/one-...85-diesel-suburban.318256/page-8#post-3592579

Also, the GM instructional video that was posted up recently shows a quick visual overview of how to service the IP (toward the end of the film).
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/1982-gm-introdoction-to-tha-6-2l-diesel.324392/



Give us some info on what symptoms you are seeing. The smart diesel guys will have answers for you as far as what sort of failure you are encountering, and what hasta be done to fix it. The unsmart guys like me might chime in, too. :haha: :rotfl:
 
campfire said:
woah, woah, woah...slow down. "Fuel pump" is too vague a description. Sounds like you are talking about the injection pump (vs. the lift pump, which is a $15 part), and entire IP rebuilds are somewhere in that ball park. You shouldn't hafta shell out that kinda money for any one part.

Head removal is not required, no matter what is wrong with the IP (was that mechanic familiar with this engine? :dunno:). Removing it for service is similar to removing a distributor (but more work, as it's buried under the intake manifold).

@AgDieseler just did a write up on the procedure a few weeks ago.

https://ck5.com/forums/threads/one-...85-diesel-suburban.318256/page-8#post-3592579

Also, the GM instructional video that was posted up recently shows a quick visual overview of how to service the IP (toward the end of the film).
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/1982-gm-introdoction-to-tha-6-2l-diesel.324392/



Give us some info on what symptoms you are seeing. The smart diesel guys will have answers for you as far as what sort of failure you are encountering, and what hasta be done to fix it. The unsmart guys like me might chime in, too. :haha: :rotfl:
Click to expand...

So it's that valve at the middle on the engine on the top in the front , so maybe that the IP is the culprit

But basically my buddy did these tests


- Test Glow plugs - 4 work ... so good

- Test for power at glow plugs - pass

- Test for fuel flow - pass

- Test for Fuel at injectors - pass

- Test for power at injector pump - pass

- Test for power at fuel metering valve - pass

- Test Fuel metering valve itself - fail

So went down and got some Standadyne additive and poured about a pint or so in the tank ... maybe the gunk has come loose inside the valve ? We did also get it started by disconnecting the wire to theglow plugs, opening the turbo pipe and spraying either in their and it fired right up ... so , but thats a bitch to do every time I want to start the truck ...
 
onedaatmc said:
So it's that valve at the middle on the engine on the top in the front , so maybe that the IP is the culprit

But basically my buddy did these tests


- Test Glow plugs - 4 work ... so good

- Test for power at glow plugs - pass

- Test for fuel flow - pass

- Test for Fuel at injectors - pass

- Test for power at injector pump - pass

- Test for power at fuel metering valve - pass

- Test Fuel metering valve itself - fail

So went down and got some Standadyne additive and poured about a pint or so in the tank ... maybe the gunk has come loose inside the valve ? We did also get it started by disconnecting the wire to theglow plugs, opening the turbo pipe and spraying either in their and it fired right up ... so , but thats a bitch to do every time I want to start the truck ...
Click to expand...

Backing up another step, what is the problem here? Is it unable to run? Or are you just dealing with hard starts? When you sprayed ether, did it stay running and function normally?

If your metering valve is nonfunctional, how do you have fuel at your injectors? How could you keep running?

As a side note, 4 glow plugs is not enough to do a good job starting one of these trucks in colder weather. And not all plugs are equal.


FWIW, if you are dealing with a metering valve problem, it sounds like it can be replaced without removing the IP. So it may be one step easier yet. If that's the problem.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...2-ip-metering-valve-replacement-question.html
 
yes the problem is it won't start.... when we cracked open the turbo pipe and squirted either in there, we disconnected the plug for the glowplugs so it wouldn't "explode" ... before the squirt. once it started and very rapidly , meaning it didn't cough, cough cough , it was running right now, then that told my friend its not a glowplug problem... so I guess it had run enough and warmed enough to then reconnect the glowplug connector to then turn the key again and let it cycle with the glowplug light on ... and it fired right up ... so my friend said that the "pump metering valave was stuck shut and to run standadyne in the tank , I poured at least a pint in the full 40 gallon tank of fuel...he said it would loosen the gunk thats blocking that valve... so it worked for 2 days, I drove it around for 3 hours the day we got it running ( ay before yesterday ) , then it started yesterday and I ran it for about 3 hours driving around, then going out this morning , it cycled 4 times with the glow pluglight and cranking awhile, with 1/4 depress of accelerator , all to no avail ... hence tonights question ...

I wonder if I take that cap off in the picture of your link, douse it with standadyne and let it soak in there if it would loosen the gunk up then I could vacuum out, etc. ... or fill that valve area with standadyne ( I bought a case or 6 quarts ) ha ... anyway fill that area and let it soak awhile ... without removing what you guys talked about ....I'm not so good at doing the delicate things ... but just thinking of the "soak" method ...
 
Last edited:
onedaatmc said:
yes the problem is it won't start.... when we cracked open the turbo pipe and squirted either in there, we disconnected the plug for the glowplugs so it wouldn't "explode" ... before the squirt. once it started and very rapidly , meaning it didn't cough, cough cough , it was running right now, then that told my friend its not a glowplug problem... so I guess it had run enough and warmed enough to then reconnect the glowplug connector to then turn the key again and let it cycle with the glowplug light on ... and it fired right up ... so my friend said that the "pump metering valave was stuck shut and to run standadyne in the tank , I poured at least a pint in the full 40 gallon tank of fuel...he said it would loosen the gunk thats blocking that valve... so it worked for 2 days, I drove it around for 3 hours the day we got it running ( ay before yesterday ) , then it started yesterday and I ran it for about 3 hours driving around, then going out this morning , it cycled 4 times with the glow pluglight and cranking awhile, with 1/4 depress of accelerator , all to no avail ... hence tonights question ...

I wonder if I take that cap off in the picture of your link, douse it with standadyne and let it soak in there if it would loosen the gunk up then I could vacuum out, etc. ... or fill that valve area with standadyne ( I bought a case or 6 quarts ) ha ... anyway fill that area and let it soak awhile ... without removing what you guys talked about ....I'm not so good at doing the delicate things ... but just thinking of the "soak" method ...
Click to expand...

The instructions for Sea Foam say that when a deep cleansing is desired, you can remove the fuel filter, fill it full of Sea Foam, and run it straight into the engine for a fast and thorough cleaning.

Definitely check the instructions for your Stanadyne stuff before doing this (just in case). But diluting it into 40 gallons may not be what you're looking for here.
 
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