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'86 Jimmy 4in Lift, 40’s, tons, 8.1 Swap- 700r4 said PNNNNN

This is not a dedicated trail rig, but does trailer to the destination usually. I am currently in the planning phase of doing a 52/56" spring swap, and getting back to being more road worthy.
Overview Gallery Discussion
GWeakland620 said:
Looks fine to me. This was bolted to a th350.

View attachment 519643
Click to expand...
Ok so measure your shaft to see if you need a spacer.
When I went from th350 to 700r4 the 700r4 shaft is longer and you might need the spacer.
I ended up changing the output shaft on the 700r4 instead so I still have the spacer with the hardware unopened.
Let me know
 
As @imiceman44 is saying, the 700R4 tailshaft is longer than TH350. I used the spacer and still had to cut a little off of the tailshaft to avoid bottoming out in the input. Check yours to see if it has room.
 
if you use the Advanced adapter output shaft instead of the factory 700r4 shaft you bolt that np205 and th350 adapter straight to the 700r4 case.
If you do that the drive shaft you have pictured will not clear the 700r4 pan.

Since you are going to change it all again to the 4l80e, I suggest the spacer, and some very good bolts and a brace bar from the bell housing to the t case.

Image of my set up using the Advanced Adapters output shaft, showing clearance using a first gen k5 drive shaft and yoke.
IMG_20230623_180408.jpgIMG_20230623_180446.jpgIMG_20230623_180504.jpg
 
The picture of the driveshaft was to use for the rear. The front shaft will be reused however that can happen. Most likely swap the front output yoke to a flange in order to retain the freshly built front shaft that is in there.
 
Wes Harden said:
if you use the Advanced adapter output shaft instead of the factory 700r4 shaft you bolt that np205 and th350 adapter straight to the 700r4 case.
If you do that the drive shaft you have pictured will not clear the 700r4 pan.

Since you are going to change it all again to the 4l80e, I suggest the spacer, and some very good bolts and a brace bar from the bell housing to the t case.

Image of my set up using the Advanced Adapters output shaft, showing clearance using a first gen k5 drive shaft and yoke.
View attachment 519649View attachment 519650View attachment 519651
Click to expand...
Yeah I think the spacer was 1¾" thick, and I had a doubler on a K5 so I decided to get the shaft to gain a little more length in the back
 
I recommend the spacer and using the GM 27 spline output shaft. The front driveshaft clears the oil pan better and the stock output shafts are stronger than most those aftermarket 700r4 to np205 shorty shafts. I have seen two of those aftermarket shafts snap on a stock truck with a non aggressive driver that had the 700r4 to np205.

I also have run a 700r4 to np205 before. And I used high quality all thread rods for the adapter to mate it all up. Because the 700r4 is metric. And I had to grind like 1/4” off the GM output shaft and I had tons of oil pan Clearance.

I’m not saying all those aftermarket short shafts are junk. I just saw two that snapped back to back.

Also, if possible and your np205 has the two threaded holes to run the torque rod off your 208, I would run that on the 205. You’ll have to lengthen it. It can really help not crack the back of your 700r4 case.
 
I’ve got a couple of cool truck opportunities presented to me this week. The first one is for this truck.

I was invited by my buddy in Oklahoma to an event called King of the Off Road(KOTOR) this year. It’s a 3-4 day event where they wheel and drive, much like the Ulimate Adventure they killed a few years ago. The plan would be to trailer the 4hrs down then park at his house and drive the Jimmy from there. So the following list goes something like this:

• Transfer case with fixed yoke (whether that be a 208 sye, or a 205).

• Floor shifter made for 4spd AT so I can manually shift down in to lower gears (right now I can only shift down in to (D), D and 3rd gear.

•Fuel Gauge

•Vulcanize spare and find extra H2 wheel and figure out leak on other tire that is mounted.

•functioning heater

The event is usually late Feb. early March, but has been held up a bit by some parks that aren’t playing nice with accommodations related to the event like cheaper park rates(covered by each participant).

So I need to jump on this truck sooner than later lol.
 
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Being able to pull these both in to work on at the same time will be one of my new favorite sights for a while.

IMG_9070.jpeg

I’ll be pulling the transfer case on the Jimmy first to inspect it to see what is loose(not sure annything is wrong) inside the 208. The grinding noise when I let off the trottle was really bad, and it makes me wonder if I have a bad bearing on the output shaft. I’ll also be checking the chain and anything else while it’s out.

Also while it’s out, I may just go ahead and do the Dodge 208 sye mod since I have a fixed yoke Dodge 208 in the basement.
 
fourwheelerjeff said:

last year; looks like a lot of Toyota overlanders
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It was, but there are also different levels that you sign up for. My buddy was in the tougher group in the Jeep Scrambler. He said signing up for the harder stuff got him away from the Toyota and Jeep circle jerks lol.
 
So you doing the tougher stuff or hanging with the jeep and yota guys?

Sounds like a fun event either way and being a full size in that crowd you are going to stand out. What’s the road mileage and trails look like?

I think you’ve had the truck pretty sorted out as far as the 8.1 goes. Get the t-case and trans shifter figured out and start thing about what to bring. An extra fuel pump and filter would be on my list. At least one coil and plug wire, cam/crank sensors on the engine side. Fluids, extra u-joints, one for the drive shafts, one for the front axle shafts. Though, I’d probably carry an outer stub axle and lockout hubs too. Pretty standard and still pretty packable.

What are the overnight accommodations? Tent, cabins or hotels?
 
So after talking with an Offroad friend of mine in Oklahoma, he shed some light on some t-case knowledge for me.

The only difference in dodge vs GM 208 is the spline count and the orientation of how low the front output hangs. The GM input and dodge input are the exact same, so all you have to do is swap for the 27 spline in the dodge case. As for the orientation of the t-case, all you do is run a clocking ring and clock the t-case back up to where you want it.

So I got to work today on breaking down my old 208 to scavenge the 27 spline input shaft.

IMG_9155.jpeg

And now I have a 27 spline dodge 208 with a fixed rear yoke.

IMG_9158.jpeg

Tossing the clocking ring on tomorrow and bolting it all back in.

I have a buddy that has a fixed rear driveshaft from a Blazer, so I am going to snag that and see about having it lengthened.
 
Need some help here…

The “T” on the plate stands for Top. That is the orientation the clock ring studs fit the trans adapter. As you can see, the flat head bolt holes don’t line up.

IMG_9162.jpeg

If I clock to where the holes line up, the studs won’t match the trans adapter.

IMG_9163.jpeg

Am I missing something? Or do I just need find a different clocking ring?
 
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