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'86 Jimmy 4in Lift, 40’s, tons, 8.1 Swap- 700r4 said PNNNNN

This is not a dedicated trail rig, but does trailer to the destination usually. I am currently in the planning phase of doing a 52/56" spring swap, and getting back to being more road worthy.
Overview Gallery Discussion
A little bit of a back track....

As for the T-case/cross member damage:

-I have a clocking ring that needs to be installed, and a body lift to help counteract any floor cutting.

-Build a new cross member(Design thoughts welcome)

-Front d-shaft extended/new one(Not sure if my joint will allow the new angle to the diff.)

Bring on any thoughts or recommendations on what cross members or front driveshaft's you went with.
 
GWeakland620 said:
Also picked up some shocks on Friday. Fox 2.0 emulsion shocks. 2-16" travel and 2-12" travel. The 12's will fit on the rear now, and the 16's will require some custom mounts to make them fit on the front.

Eventually they will swap places. With 56's, poly bushings, and 6" shackles in the works for the rear, I do believe the rear would benefit more from the longer travel shocks. That may also require some floor cutting for the rears to fit at that time.

The 12's will then go up front with some altered mounts.
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IMO just skip mounting the fronts twice. Wheel with what you have until you are ready to do it how you want. I have remade shock mounts like 6 times and its such a time killer :haha:
 
Well, the rears came off tonight cause they were blown out completely. So I'll rock the rear 12's for a bit.
 
Deuling said:
IMO just skip mounting the fronts twice. Wheel with what you have until you are ready to do it how you want. I have remade shock mounts like 6 times and its such a time killer :haha:
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This is good advise. It sucks having to redo things you have already spent time/money on.

You can look in my build thread for ideas on the crossmember as just built a homemade one to protect my non-clocked NP241. I will say, if you are planning to do 56's, I would plan to do a wrap bar in the rear too. I ran without one for about 6 months or so (maybe longer) and it was a big improvement in the rear when I did one. You can do it from scratch for real cheap too. And I bring that up cause how I did it was integrate the mount for the front of the wrap bar into the crossmember/skid plate for the tcase. It's sturdy as crap. Some might say it hangs down too low, but as long as I can lay the whole truck on it and it won't budge, I'm fine. Plus, my new 44's give me some better clearance :D
 
A wrap bar is in the plans for sure. My Cherokee buddy is going 4 link rear, and said he'll give me his to try and make it work. I am not worried about a flat belly, just stronger and a little more clearance. I plan on running these 38.5's as long as possible.
 
Mounted the two 12" shocks on the rear today. Fit perfectly.

Really need to get some hoops built or mounts built to get these on all 4 corners.

image.jpg
 
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Looks great! I'm waiting for the first jump....send that thing!

I shouldn't be egging you on...I dont even have rear shocks lol.

Are you using shock hoops up front?
 
I actually have terraces in my back yard:whistle:

The 16"s will end up on the rear and the 12's will go up front. Probably run Deuling's mounts up front, and cut holes in the bed for the rear.
 
GWeakland620 said:
I actually have terraces in my back yard:whistle:

The 16"s will end up on the rear and the 12's will go up front. Probably run Deuling's mounts up front, and cut holes in the bed for the rear.
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Ive been seriously thinking about doing shock hoops in the rear and up front. You try first lol :haha:
 
I may end up picking up some new inner fenders. Mine were just rusty. We'll see what ends up happening.

On another note:

The little rubber bump stop on one of the shocks is torn. Not that I intend to use them as bump stops, I just want them to be in working order. Is there a way to replace it without tearing the shock apart?
 
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