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'86 Jimmy 4in Lift, 40’s, tons, 8.1 Swap- 700r4 said PNNNNN

This is not a dedicated trail rig, but does trailer to the destination usually. I am currently in the planning phase of doing a 52/56" spring swap, and getting back to being more road worthy.
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GWeakland620 said:
My handheld only shows codes for the APPS.
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Yeah that’s not going to help. Get a elm327 or Veepeak or similar Bluetooth device off of Amazon. If you have a non-apple phone get the Torque app from the App Store. I’ve tried torque on my iPhone and it’s not quite compatible. There are other apps for apple to use, I just haven’t found one that is as good as torque. It’s why I kept my old droid based phone to keep in the Blazer for diagnostic purposes.

That’s exactly how I knew I had a fuel delivery problem with lean misfire codes before I even pulled over and hooked up my fuel pressure gauge.

It’s better than a generic handheld and way better than nothing.
 
I like obd auto doctor. I have had it for 10? Years bought the pro vers for a 1 time fee, now it has changed to an annual fee.
They still honor my 1 time fee.
I had/have torque and it might be better in this situation. Torque seems to be geared towards tunners
 
GWeakland620 said:
I see that Veepeak is almost double the price of the Elm327, is it that much better?
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I use the veepeak with my iphone and the elm327 with my droid. I don't know if it's better but I know it works with my phone.
 
Been super sick all week, but had enough this weekend and snuck outside for a bit.
Decided to put some coolant in and get it up to temp and check things over. Overall nothing is looking too bad other than my brand new radiator apparently had a hole in it. I’m going to call my old job and see if there is a warranty on it tomorrow.

The ELM327 with the car scanner app is pretty cool. The only 2 gauges I currently have set up are RPM and coolant temp.

IMG_4446.png

Oil pressure has maxed out the factory gauge, so that’s a good sign lol.

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And here is the hole that I apparently created at some point.

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Good evening gents, I hope the day found you well.

Tonight’s question;

Where do I run the factory K5 alternator wiring?

IMG_4458.jpeg

I am reading 13.7v on my scanner, but nothing on the voltage gauge up on the dash.
 
Well I worked for 2 hours tonight trying to figure out the right plan for the volt gauge wiring, and I think I’m just going to splice into the Howell harness for my gauge. I don’t know any other way to make it work.

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The alternator wiring and gauge aren't part of the Howell harness. The stock setup is perfectly fine and should work. Since I'm using the cs144 alternator I did have to change the plug out for the alternator, but it's all OG GM stuff.
 
But I have 2 different plugs. One is directly part of the harness and even had a label for the alternator. The other is the factory K5 harness which supplies the gauge. How do I use that stock white plug?
 
The red wire (Red 2) goes to a fusible link at the starter connection and is tied to the straight 12V at the fuse panel. You must have already connected something to that circuit or tons of stuff wouldn't work. The brown wire (BRN 25) goes to the instrument cluster. The voltage gauge feeds from PNK/BLK 39 which is a switched ignition source connected to lots of things underhood.
 
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