So you guys are saying that as of right now, while leaving the white plug off, everything is hooked up correctly? I’m struggling on this one lol.
CK5
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'86 Jimmy 4in Lift, 40’s, tons, 8.1 Swap- 700r4 said PNNNNN
- Thread starter GWeakland620
- Start date
This is not a dedicated trail rig, but does trailer to the destination usually. I am currently in the planning phase of doing a 52/56" spring swap, and getting back to being more road worthy.
You probably brought in the battery/starter/alternator harness with the 8.1, which are covering all of these functions without that old alternator connector. This alternator is controlled by the PCM, so as long as it's charging, you're good. Did you say your voltmeter isn't working?
Correct. No movement on the dash.
Brown goes in the cab to the cluster and red goes up to either the junction block on the firewall or down to the starter. I'd hook both of them to the charge wire on the alternator and see what happens.
1973-87(91) Factory GM Pickup Manuals
1973-87(91) Factory GM Pickup Manuals
forum.73-87chevytrucks.com
Actually brown looks like it is an ignition feed from the cluster to tell the alternator to charge. The field wire I believe. If I follow other diagrams for the voltmeter it looks like the voltmeter gets power from a pink/blk wire in the clsuter plug that goes back to ignition feed from the fuse box. Check to make sure all you ignition fuses are in the fuse panel and still good.
The voltmeter will run from a switched ignition source.
I'm seeing PNK/BLK-39 going to A.I.R. diverter module, Carb fuel solenoid, vehicle speed sensor, water in fuel lamp, check engine module. It's fed from fuse block 12004688
I'm seeing PNK/BLK-39 going to A.I.R. diverter module, Carb fuel solenoid, vehicle speed sensor, water in fuel lamp, check engine module. It's fed from fuse block 12004688
Based on your weather pack connector, I'd say your ECM is controlling the alternator which is preferable. The main charge post wire looks like it is spliced, does it circle around to the original white alt connector? As long as it makes it back to the battery in some way, whether that's a wire directly to the post, or to the junction block on the firewall, or to the main starter terminal, that's your choice.
Ok, it does. So then I need to check some fuses.
Well, I’ll admit when messed up and I did.
Ignition fuse was fine. Really had me scratching my head. Then it dawned on me, my temp gauge was pegged out with the truck off. Sure enough, the cluster fuse was popped…….fail.
So yeah, gauges are now working as they should be. Now back to the pedal issue!
Ignition fuse was fine. Really had me scratching my head. Then it dawned on me, my temp gauge was pegged out with the truck off. Sure enough, the cluster fuse was popped…….fail.
So yeah, gauges are now working as they should be. Now back to the pedal issue!
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Ok so now that I’m moving forward with gauges, I now realize that my oil pressure gauge isn’t actually working right. I took the factory single wire from the K5 harness and connected it to the 8.1 single wire sensor. From what I’ve ready on the 8.1 thread and other builds, that’s all it takes right?
There is also a wire in the Howell harness that is labeled “oil pressure”, but I assumed that was for the ecm to read.
There is also a wire in the Howell harness that is labeled “oil pressure”, but I assumed that was for the ecm to read.
I’m using the stock squarebody oil pressure wiring. I think it’s a stock. Squarebody sensor too.
Threw the cooling system back together and ran it up to temp and everything is good to go now.
Talked the wife into hopping in the driver’s seat and pushed with the Bumperettes on the Willoway Blazer to get the Jimmy into the driveway.
Now that it’s closer to the house I’m going to start my “one thing a night” process and see if I can get this thing driveable and maybe even usable by Christmas break.
Talked the wife into hopping in the driver’s seat and pushed with the Bumperettes on the Willoway Blazer to get the Jimmy into the driveway.
Now that it’s closer to the house I’m going to start my “one thing a night” process and see if I can get this thing driveable and maybe even usable by Christmas break.
Well things stalled a bit on this due to crazy weather and a nice job promotion to buildings and grounds coordinator for the school district I have been at for 2.5 years now. A $20k pay raise will definitely help this project move along once we knock out a few things around the house.
I have tied up a few loose ends on some bolts and wiring.
Today I mocked up where the s10 overflow and ecu bracket will go. I’ll need to move some wires and mount them, but I really like the placement. The overflow hose will be pretty long, but I’ll hide it as best as possible. The placement also allows me to go ahead and run a factory washer jug so I’ll have to buy a new one.
I have tied up a few loose ends on some bolts and wiring.
Today I mocked up where the s10 overflow and ecu bracket will go. I’ll need to move some wires and mount them, but I really like the placement. The overflow hose will be pretty long, but I’ll hide it as best as possible. The placement also allows me to go ahead and run a factory washer jug so I’ll have to buy a new one.
Right on, congratulations on the promotion!
Indeed!
Poked some holes and final mounted the overflow and and ecu bracket. Still need to secure more wiring but I am pleased with this setup.
Congrats on the job!
Question for the DBW throttle people. I have a pedal and TAC module from what I thought was the same vehicle, but I have no throttle response at all. If for some reason they aren’t from the same vehicle, can I just reprogram them? I have replaced all sensors and throttle body has been swapped out a couple times with no change.
If I remember right, the pedals and tac modules need to be at least from the same year truck. Mixing an early tac with a late pedal or vise versa will not work. There is a difference that I can’t remember exactly what it was but it’s enough they don’t work.
Ideally what ever year the the ecm programming was set for would match the tac and pedal.
I do remember @SpeedlabDan having similar DBW throttle issues due to a mismatch of parts prior to his original 8.1 swap truck meeting its demise. I might still have schematics from both years his parts came from where we were comparing circuit/terminal locations at the plugs.
I’m certain at least the terminal locations for circuits differ but I’m not sure what else might be different to keep them from talking.
I’ll look through my laptop tonight and see if I still have them saved.
Ideally what ever year the the ecm programming was set for would match the tac and pedal.
I do remember @SpeedlabDan having similar DBW throttle issues due to a mismatch of parts prior to his original 8.1 swap truck meeting its demise. I might still have schematics from both years his parts came from where we were comparing circuit/terminal locations at the plugs.
I’m certain at least the terminal locations for circuits differ but I’m not sure what else might be different to keep them from talking.
I’ll look through my laptop tonight and see if I still have them saved.
