Thanks. There is a 40 dollar price difference between that and the EP381. EP381 says it will do 108 PSI, the FE0114 says max of 85PSI. Let me know how the FE0114 works, I'll check a few buddies to see what they did.
CK5
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86 K10-Orion
- Thread starter toomany
- Start date
Thanks. There is a 40 dollar price difference between that and the EP381. EP381 says it will do 108 PSI, the FE0114 says max of 85PSI. Let me know how the FE0114 works, I'll check a few buddies to see what they did.
I'd think they both would perform the same... especially at a stockish power level. I could see one having more volume than the other though. I'll let you know how it runs.
FWIW, mine is a single feed fuel rail, I believe yours is a return style. I plan on a Corvette style filter/regulator.
Pictures of the firewall clearance. The drivers side is a little tight. I'd say it's closer than the factory SBC. I think the 05 I pulled my motor from had about as much.
That last one is kind of upside down... drivers side is on the right.
So this build might get moved up in my priority list. From the sounds of it, my Duramax is about to shit out a rod. I'm hoping it could be a broken flex plate, but I won't know until I investigate further. Shut the truck off at Sams club, came out about 20min later and when it started it sounded like the starter was still half engaged. Shut it off and fired it up again and same sound. Tried it one more time and it was better but had a tick to it. Putting it in gear changes the sound of it. Driving it, sometimes the sound goes away completely, other times it's just barely noticeable. Putting any kind of real load on it makes it go away entirely. Going to cut the oil filter apart tomorrow and maybe see if I can't get the starter off to look at the flex plate.
I'm really hoping that is what it is. Truck has great oil pressure and was running fine when I shut it off. It does have 290,xxx miles on it though, so I wouldn't be surprised if it was a bearing. I believe the trans has been out at one point before I got it.
I don't need the truck on a daily basis, and have two other vehicles to drive. But there are times where I need it for work or to pull trailer. Most times it just sits until it's needed to haul something, retired from DD awhile ago.
Ran some fuel lines and put the filter on today. Where they pass the tank I put some heat shrink to give some protection. Will probably add some rubber or something. Need something where they cross each other too. For some reason I was thinking that the filter had 3 male ends on it, it has two male on the inlet and a female on the outlet. My bad for not checking before ordering fittings...one more thing to add to the next order.
U-bolt plates came in today and I picked up some u-bolts locally. Might try getting the new axles under soon. Have to dig up some rollers for them or spend the money now on new tires.
Also started tearing into the 5.3. It ran when pulled, but it came from my cousins truck and he isn't exactly nice to things. Was running rough towards the end. Most likely cause of that was probably the rusted out knock sensors, 3 loose spark plugs and the giant vacuum leak from the valve cover being broken at the breather tube. Bearings all look great and fall right in the middle of spec. Cylinder walls look like new yet too. Since it's apart, I'll probably toss new bearings and rings at it and clean up the stock pistons. Oil pump, timing chain, valve springs and seals are all getting replaced for sure. I haven't gotten to the lifters yet, but those might get swapped as well.
Decided on a color and picked up some paint too. Body is almost straight enough as is. Cab needs a tiny amount of filler work. Fenders are basically ready to shoot. Idea is to paint the cab while it's all apart. Doors and fenders will be done off the truck. I may regret that because I picked a metalic, and those should be shot in the position they are in on the vehicle.
U-bolt plates came in today and I picked up some u-bolts locally. Might try getting the new axles under soon. Have to dig up some rollers for them or spend the money now on new tires.
Also started tearing into the 5.3. It ran when pulled, but it came from my cousins truck and he isn't exactly nice to things. Was running rough towards the end. Most likely cause of that was probably the rusted out knock sensors, 3 loose spark plugs and the giant vacuum leak from the valve cover being broken at the breather tube. Bearings all look great and fall right in the middle of spec. Cylinder walls look like new yet too. Since it's apart, I'll probably toss new bearings and rings at it and clean up the stock pistons. Oil pump, timing chain, valve springs and seals are all getting replaced for sure. I haven't gotten to the lifters yet, but those might get swapped as well.
Decided on a color and picked up some paint too. Body is almost straight enough as is. Cab needs a tiny amount of filler work. Fenders are basically ready to shoot. Idea is to paint the cab while it's all apart. Doors and fenders will be done off the truck. I may regret that because I picked a metalic, and those should be shot in the position they are in on the vehicle.
What are you doing for the front bumper?
Now with one side old frame horn and the other new style you can not put a stock bumper.
Now with one side old frame horn and the other new style you can not put a stock bumper.
I've got a stock bumper for it, but none of the brackets for it (well, maybe one). I was going to cut the frame to match and build a set of brackets for it. Or, build a bumper out of some tube/box. This area is definitely a "cross that bridge when I get there." I'll worry about it once the truck is running and driving.
Took a couple days off to get out of town, but I'm back on this and making progress again.
Pulled the springs out to install the new bushings and shackles. The bolt on the drivers side was worn almost all the way through. Despite having been replaced at some point, a couple of the bolts were seized to their sleeves. I bought the gressable bushing/bolts, but I still put some antiseize on everything before assembly.
Drug the 60 out from where it was sitting, which was outside and quite a ways away from the barn. Had to drill out a broken bolt on the passenger side. Apparently the PO tried and gave up because the axle has been cut and drilled for a u-bolt on the pumpkin.
It's a Dodge 60, so it has the less desirable hubs. I may try to find some Selectro lockouts for it or swap the hubs from my other 60 that has some Spicer's on it. The other axle is in the mud truck so they never really get unlocked. The shock mounts have been cut off and moved to on top of the axle tube. I don't know if I can work with them or if I'll end up moving them back to a more factory spot.
Need to borrow a die to cut some more threads into the u-bolts. They'd be alright if they didn't stretch so much when tightened correctly...so for now they are just finger tight. Also need to pick up a set of shorter bolts for the diff side.
Pulled the cover off to confirm gear ratio. My cousin is the one who originally picked these up for one of his trucks. I bought them off him when he decided to go to 2.5's. He was told 4.88's and welded both front and back. From moving them around, we thought that was true. Getting into it, there is a stock open carrier and a set of Richmond 4.88 gears. Not much oil came out, but I think it was stored upside down and most of it leaked out. The pattern looks ok on them, but there feels like more backlash than there should be. Gear teeth look rough on the tops too. I'll run them for now, but keep an eye on it. And if I decide to change ratios, I won't feel guilty about it. The rear is definitely locked/welded. Once I get it in the truck I'll check to make sure they match.
Pulled the springs out to install the new bushings and shackles. The bolt on the drivers side was worn almost all the way through. Despite having been replaced at some point, a couple of the bolts were seized to their sleeves. I bought the gressable bushing/bolts, but I still put some antiseize on everything before assembly.
Drug the 60 out from where it was sitting, which was outside and quite a ways away from the barn. Had to drill out a broken bolt on the passenger side. Apparently the PO tried and gave up because the axle has been cut and drilled for a u-bolt on the pumpkin.
It's a Dodge 60, so it has the less desirable hubs. I may try to find some Selectro lockouts for it or swap the hubs from my other 60 that has some Spicer's on it. The other axle is in the mud truck so they never really get unlocked. The shock mounts have been cut off and moved to on top of the axle tube. I don't know if I can work with them or if I'll end up moving them back to a more factory spot.
Need to borrow a die to cut some more threads into the u-bolts. They'd be alright if they didn't stretch so much when tightened correctly...so for now they are just finger tight. Also need to pick up a set of shorter bolts for the diff side.
Pulled the cover off to confirm gear ratio. My cousin is the one who originally picked these up for one of his trucks. I bought them off him when he decided to go to 2.5's. He was told 4.88's and welded both front and back. From moving them around, we thought that was true. Getting into it, there is a stock open carrier and a set of Richmond 4.88 gears. Not much oil came out, but I think it was stored upside down and most of it leaked out. The pattern looks ok on them, but there feels like more backlash than there should be. Gear teeth look rough on the tops too. I'll run them for now, but keep an eye on it. And if I decide to change ratios, I won't feel guilty about it. The rear is definitely locked/welded. Once I get it in the truck I'll check to make sure they match.
Last night I cut some more threads into the u-bolts for the front axle and got that tightened down then cut the excess length off.
Today I dug out the rear axle and swapped that in. Haven't pulled the cover yet, but from my quick spinning of the hub and counting the yoke, looks like 4.88's.
Will do some disc's on the rear with the old front calipers. Need to move one of the shock mounts too... they are both on the back side of the axle.
Started pulling the hubs off to swap with my S10 mud truck. Decided to use the parts I have and just move them around between trucks.
Bought wheels yesterday, they should be here early next week. Tire shopping right now and trying to price match against a couple of dealers.
Today I dug out the rear axle and swapped that in. Haven't pulled the cover yet, but from my quick spinning of the hub and counting the yoke, looks like 4.88's.
Will do some disc's on the rear with the old front calipers. Need to move one of the shock mounts too... they are both on the back side of the axle.
Started pulling the hubs off to swap with my S10 mud truck. Decided to use the parts I have and just move them around between trucks.
Bought wheels yesterday, they should be here early next week. Tire shopping right now and trying to price match against a couple of dealers.
Went in late last night to work to get an early start on today's stuff. This morning I only had to do a couple of things and I was able to take off early. Had cement truck scheduled today to pour the approach on the side of the barn.
Being I was home a few hours early, I changedo ut the hubs. Pretty straight forward stuff. I did have to knock the rotors off of each of them as I run 3/4ton stuff on the other 60. Had a set of Chevy 60 rotors that I put on instead of the Dodge ones. Chevy ones are about 1/4" thicker.
Going to wait a week or so before buying tires, seeing if I can't catch a labor day sale. Did order some external threaded lugnuts so I can put some caps on my wheels.
Being I was home a few hours early, I changedo ut the hubs. Pretty straight forward stuff. I did have to knock the rotors off of each of them as I run 3/4ton stuff on the other 60. Had a set of Chevy 60 rotors that I put on instead of the Dodge ones. Chevy ones are about 1/4" thicker.
Going to wait a week or so before buying tires, seeing if I can't catch a labor day sale. Did order some external threaded lugnuts so I can put some caps on my wheels.
Picked up some new calipers for the front axle. The old ones had a both bleeders broken off and I could only get one piston to move back. Between the coupon codes and speedperks, I'm into these for $22.97 for the pair...at that price it doesn't make sense to mess the the old ones. Brake hoses are 2wd Gmt400 parts. Long enough for the 4” lift and cheap/easy to come by. Tried getting the bracket off of them, but I didn't want to cut the hose so I left it. If it gets in the way I'll figure out a way to remove them.
New brake lines from the proportioning valve to the front calipers. Line is NiCopp. If you haven't used any before, you need to get some. So much easier to work with than steel line. Put some rubber tubing around the line in the clamps so they wouldn't run together.
My remaining fuel line fitting came in the other day I put that on. Secured every couple of inches with cushion clamps.
Picked my transmission up from the shop. It got the works. Hd2 shift kit, beast shell, wider band, upgraded accumulators, seperator plate/valve body mods and a few other things. Will have the ability to hold any gear at any RPM if I want to shift it that way. Converter is a stock replacement for now. Not going to do anything with that until I drive it some and see how it is. It shouldn't be too much from stock with the 4.88's and 35'' tires.
New brake lines from the proportioning valve to the front calipers. Line is NiCopp. If you haven't used any before, you need to get some. So much easier to work with than steel line. Put some rubber tubing around the line in the clamps so they wouldn't run together.
My remaining fuel line fitting came in the other day I put that on. Secured every couple of inches with cushion clamps.
Picked my transmission up from the shop. It got the works. Hd2 shift kit, beast shell, wider band, upgraded accumulators, seperator plate/valve body mods and a few other things. Will have the ability to hold any gear at any RPM if I want to shift it that way. Converter is a stock replacement for now. Not going to do anything with that until I drive it some and see how it is. It shouldn't be too much from stock with the 4.88's and 35'' tires.
While I'm waiting to buy tires and the parts to put the motor together (the last two big expenses)...I'm getting a start on the body work. There isn't much to do really. 3 small holes to patch that had screws/bolts through them and one above the passenger side front cab mount. There are a couple in the dash that I could do, but I think I'll leave them and figure out a way to repurpose them.
Started by adjusting the doors some. They are supposed to be genuine GM doors. They fit great except for along the curve on the back side. This cab has had it's roof replaced...so I'm going to say this has something to do with it. Or they just got mishandled along the line.
Before. Above the door handle is the problem area. Both sides are this way.
After heating it a little and going mideivel on it with the palm of my hand, I got it pretty decent. Could use a little tweak at the mid point still.
Pulled the doors off and stripped out the interior.
Brought one of my high humps down from the loft and test fit it. I think I can clear the transmission and transfer case has is, so I'm going to leave most of the 2wd floor in there. Using the gap as a way to deaden sound/heat.
Once I was happy with how it fit, I drilled some holes and cleaned up the existing hole. Used u-clip nuts to hold it down. They are designed to be used on an edge, so needed to drill holes to insert them.
Bolted down. The rear flange doesn't quite line up. Have another hump I'm going to cut the rear off to extend this one to meet the floor.
Hope to paint the cab and interior this week sometime.
Started by adjusting the doors some. They are supposed to be genuine GM doors. They fit great except for along the curve on the back side. This cab has had it's roof replaced...so I'm going to say this has something to do with it. Or they just got mishandled along the line.
Before. Above the door handle is the problem area. Both sides are this way.
After heating it a little and going mideivel on it with the palm of my hand, I got it pretty decent. Could use a little tweak at the mid point still.
Pulled the doors off and stripped out the interior.
Brought one of my high humps down from the loft and test fit it. I think I can clear the transmission and transfer case has is, so I'm going to leave most of the 2wd floor in there. Using the gap as a way to deaden sound/heat.
Once I was happy with how it fit, I drilled some holes and cleaned up the existing hole. Used u-clip nuts to hold it down. They are designed to be used on an edge, so needed to drill holes to insert them.
Bolted down. The rear flange doesn't quite line up. Have another hump I'm going to cut the rear off to extend this one to meet the floor.
Hope to paint the cab and interior this week sometime.
Yesterday I welded up the couple of trim holes I won't be using and the spot on the passenger side rocker. Also took care of the one floor patch I needed.
Today I pulled the glass out of the cab and did the little bit of body work it needed. Was mainly around the B-pillars and on the rockers.
Tomorrows plan is to give it a good wash with a scotch brite and get it taped up for some paint. Think I'll start with the interior and see how that goes before hitting the outside.
Put a skim coat on the areas where the body work was started and had a bunch of sanding scratches. The green zinc is where I had sanded off some of the surface rust. I shot some grey primer over it after this picture so it's all one color now. Last thing I need is different color primers bleeding through the paint.
Today I pulled the glass out of the cab and did the little bit of body work it needed. Was mainly around the B-pillars and on the rockers.
Tomorrows plan is to give it a good wash with a scotch brite and get it taped up for some paint. Think I'll start with the interior and see how that goes before hitting the outside.
Put a skim coat on the areas where the body work was started and had a bunch of sanding scratches. The green zinc is where I had sanded off some of the surface rust. I shot some grey primer over it after this picture so it's all one color now. Last thing I need is different color primers bleeding through the paint.
So full manual on the 4l60E then with the HD2 shift kit? Or still letting the PCM do the controlling?
Putting the selector in drive will have it shifts controlled from the PCM. Has the ability to hold a gear at any RPM if you chose to. Move the shifter down to first going down the highway...trans is shifting to first. I didn't ask, so I don't know if putting the trans in 2nd (or 3rd) will have it start out in that gear or have it only shift up to that gear.
They started with the Trans Star I think it was HD2 kit and went from there. They do some of there own mods to the valvebody and separator plate as far as drilling for oiling and shift firmness. Plastic accumulators were replaced with metal ones, some got machine work done to them as well. They have there own spec on clearances for the clutch packs.
Good progress today.
Hit it early this morning and started masking off the cab to paint. Working from the inside out. Taped off the windows and the edge of the jams. Painted roof, A/B pillars, rear wall, dash and kick panels. Didnt do the floor or firewall because I plan on lizard skin and carpet.
Was going to call that it for the day, but the paint was dry enough after 5 hours to move on. Flipped my masking from the outside to the inside. Taped off the doors and some of the firewall. Put 3 coats plus a drop coat.
Has a little bit of orange peel from what I can see so far. Once it dries I'll inspect it a little further. If it's not too bad I might not bother wet sanding and buffing.
While that was going on, my tires showed up. 35x12.5/17 General Grabbers. Ended up with $140 off after rebates and Labor day sale.
Wheels are supposed to be here on Tuesday. Had a mix up with the place I ordered from. Their inventory was off and they had to pull my order from 2 other warehouses...but they are all on the way now.
Plan for the doors and fenders is to paint the insides and edges, then rehang and shoot them in their final position on the truck. Being a metalic paint, it can lay down weird otherwise and it can look like a different color depending on the angle.
Hit it early this morning and started masking off the cab to paint. Working from the inside out. Taped off the windows and the edge of the jams. Painted roof, A/B pillars, rear wall, dash and kick panels. Didnt do the floor or firewall because I plan on lizard skin and carpet.
Was going to call that it for the day, but the paint was dry enough after 5 hours to move on. Flipped my masking from the outside to the inside. Taped off the doors and some of the firewall. Put 3 coats plus a drop coat.
Has a little bit of orange peel from what I can see so far. Once it dries I'll inspect it a little further. If it's not too bad I might not bother wet sanding and buffing.
While that was going on, my tires showed up. 35x12.5/17 General Grabbers. Ended up with $140 off after rebates and Labor day sale.
Wheels are supposed to be here on Tuesday. Had a mix up with the place I ordered from. Their inventory was off and they had to pull my order from 2 other warehouses...but they are all on the way now.
Plan for the doors and fenders is to paint the insides and edges, then rehang and shoot them in their final position on the truck. Being a metalic paint, it can lay down weird otherwise and it can look like a different color depending on the angle.
I'm going to do the glove box and ashtray when I do the inner parts of the front end. We'll see how those look out of position next to the dash.
