Vombrown
Mountain Man
I have a salvage yard that will make your toes curl...seriously. Cheap, plentiful squares and all sorts of goodies
CK5
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'86 K30 Crew Cab Build
- Thread starter LNielson
- Start date
I have a salvage yard that will make your toes curl...seriously. Cheap, plentiful squares and all sorts of goodies
I got my NV4500 torn down. The input shaft pilot bearing surface is toast and the front bearing retainer broke when it came out. Other than that, all the gears and the other shafts look to be in good shape. I'm now just a bearing/synchro/gasket set away from putting it back together.
Took the bare case into my work, cleaned it up in the solvent tank, and threw it on the mill to drill/tap the 1/2-13 holes to mate up to my stock hydro bellhousing.
The mill we have just barely had enough "Z" to do the work on the case. I squared the case up to the table and found zero on the input bearing hole. Then it was easy to put the holes in the right place.
I had to chuck the drill bits up in collets instead of using the drill chuck due to the height of the case. I cheated and clamped the 27/64 tap drill into a 7/16 collet and it worked out perfectly.
One of the holes (top right in the picture) is too close to an existing hole in the NV4500. I will put a longer stud through that hole and put a nut on both inside and outside. It will work just fine. I debated welding that existing hole shut first. I didn't because I didn't want to risk warping the case or having something bad happen trying to weld on that cast iron. In hind sight maybe I should have?
I had to die grinder the other side of the case to allow for the nut to fit/sit flat at that location.
Here's the holes on the drivers side of the case. The top of the trans is to the right in this picture.
Here's the holes on the passenger side of the case. The top of the trans is to the left. You can see the siamesed hole to the right, it is about 70% of a full threaded hole.
I need to clean/modify the tailhousing for the NP205 Shifter and then paint the case up. Hopefully I will get that done tomorrow.
Took the bare case into my work, cleaned it up in the solvent tank, and threw it on the mill to drill/tap the 1/2-13 holes to mate up to my stock hydro bellhousing.
The mill we have just barely had enough "Z" to do the work on the case. I squared the case up to the table and found zero on the input bearing hole. Then it was easy to put the holes in the right place.
I had to chuck the drill bits up in collets instead of using the drill chuck due to the height of the case. I cheated and clamped the 27/64 tap drill into a 7/16 collet and it worked out perfectly.
One of the holes (top right in the picture) is too close to an existing hole in the NV4500. I will put a longer stud through that hole and put a nut on both inside and outside. It will work just fine. I debated welding that existing hole shut first. I didn't because I didn't want to risk warping the case or having something bad happen trying to weld on that cast iron. In hind sight maybe I should have?
I had to die grinder the other side of the case to allow for the nut to fit/sit flat at that location.
Here's the holes on the drivers side of the case. The top of the trans is to the right in this picture.
Here's the holes on the passenger side of the case. The top of the trans is to the left. You can see the siamesed hole to the right, it is about 70% of a full threaded hole.
I need to clean/modify the tailhousing for the NP205 Shifter and then paint the case up. Hopefully I will get that done tomorrow.
I don't know if this is the proper term but have you ever pinned a hole.
Guy I knew was adapting a 40s caddy trans to a Hudson engine ( I think). One of the holes was like that. He drove a slug down into the hole, then drilled in from the side and drove a smaller dowel into the one filling the hole. Took a punch and peened the little pin. Then drilled and tapped for the new hole.
Never seen it done since but seemed like it worked good.
Guy I knew was adapting a 40s caddy trans to a Hudson engine ( I think). One of the holes was like that. He drove a slug down into the hole, then drilled in from the side and drove a smaller dowel into the one filling the hole. Took a punch and peened the little pin. Then drilled and tapped for the new hole.
Never seen it done since but seemed like it worked good.
Yes that is a thing, and I thought about trying that too, but decided to just drill it since I will now be locked into installing/pulling the trans and bellhousing as an assembly. I could drill that one hole into a clearance hole and just use a bolt on it too, might actually be the best answer at this point, as the casting itself would hold the head of that bolt from turning.
A guy over on the 67-72 forum did this exactly like I did. He documented it really well and he is running a stud in that partial siamesed hole for years now with no issues, I'm sure it will be fine the way it is.
Since no one wants to be a killer of nuns and orphaned children, I found these cool little parts in the back of a drawer at work that adapt a 3/4-10 hole to a 1/2-13
I drilled out the siamese hole and tapped it to 3/4-10. Then I drilled a 3/16 hole through the edge of the insert/threaded hole and pressed in a dowel pin to eliminate the potential for the insert to work itself out. Also slip fit locktite on the pin. It is not coming out without fire now. Definitely a better solution than I had before.
These inserts are about 1"long and the stick out the backside of the trans case, but won't be in the way of anything.
Painted it up, now I just need my rebuild parts.
Vombrown
Mountain Man
No cast Iron tail housing upgrade while you're there? I always toss the aluminum housing. Cracked too many over the years.
I debated that too, but I think i'm going to try it this way. If I was adding a doubler I would upgrade to cast iron for sure. I cleaned and inspected this one very thoroughly looking for any sign of cracks and it is in good shape. I hope I don't end up regretting that.
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Vombrown
Mountain Man
It came to mind as I have to go through the nv4500 I just picked up. It's supposed to be rebuilt but I always look both ways, even on a one way street. That's how much faith I have in the general public.
The Gipper had it right, Trust but Verify.
I've never had one of these NV4500's apart before, The amount of black glittery looking particles that came out of mine was crazy, I'm assuming that was the remains of the synthetic synchros.
Are you using the factory NV4500 bell to mount yours up to your LS?
Vombrown
Mountain Man
That's the plan. I have a 95 passenger side hydro bell with mine. It is cracked behind the slave cylinder mount but I may be able to save it. I've got a good amount of work to do before I get there. Might have missed it but what bell are you using? Sm465 mechanical?
Vombrown
Mountain Man
Yeah those syncros get chewed up and make shiny sewage. Be sure to properly shim the front plate. I put one together as I thought it was close enough.... It wasn't. That and the 5th gear nut kill a bunch of them.
I'm using the SM465 Hydro bell, if my NV4500 had come with a bell I probably would have used it and adapted the hose to the slave cylinder with that swagelock fitting. Options are nice to have.
Vombrown
Mountain Man
I'm fairly certain I'm going to run the HOWE hydraulic TO bearing. Without a slave, just a hose up to the master. With that one it really doesn't matter what bell you run.
Cut my trans tunnel out and made it removeable today. It was a fair bit of work and i'm not quite done. I need to borrow a right angle drill from work to drill the pilot holes for the plug welds so i can finish welding in that support bar. I also haven't drilled/tapped the holes to reattach the removeable piece. This should make my upcoming NV4500 swap that much easier.
I drilled some 3/16" holes on 1" centers and plug welded the tub to the support bars (1-1/2 x 1/8" flat bar). I tried a 5/32" hole at first but I had trouble getting it to stick to the support bar, I kept just welding the holes shut so I stepped up one bit size and drilled a little deeper into the flat bar behind, that did the trick.
I'll grind the spot welds down smooth with a rolloc disk when i'm all done. I'm going to bed liner the cab floor this summer. It will cover up any blemishes that might remain.
Used my trademark halfway in the garage parking strategy, good thing too, it snowed 6" today.
layed out the cut with tape and got after it with the skinny wheel.
formed the flat bar to fit, clamped it in, drilled holes, plug welded it on with my little Hobart MIG.
Cover fits back on really good.
one step closer to swapping in my nv4500.
I drilled some 3/16" holes on 1" centers and plug welded the tub to the support bars (1-1/2 x 1/8" flat bar). I tried a 5/32" hole at first but I had trouble getting it to stick to the support bar, I kept just welding the holes shut so I stepped up one bit size and drilled a little deeper into the flat bar behind, that did the trick.
I'll grind the spot welds down smooth with a rolloc disk when i'm all done. I'm going to bed liner the cab floor this summer. It will cover up any blemishes that might remain.
Used my trademark halfway in the garage parking strategy, good thing too, it snowed 6" today.
layed out the cut with tape and got after it with the skinny wheel.
formed the flat bar to fit, clamped it in, drilled holes, plug welded it on with my little Hobart MIG.
Cover fits back on really good.
one step closer to swapping in my nv4500.
Vombrown
Mountain Man
Are you planning to roll the edge on your cover? Or weld a piece of small round stock around it to give it some body?
Hmmm, I hadn't thought about that. That flat bar framework it will bolt into is way stiffer than i thought it would be. I took the time to get the joints fit nice and welded them together. It is pretty rigid. I'll evaluate it after it's bolted on i guess. Thanks for the thought.
T
tenderfoot
Guest
Bwahahaha, that was pretty dang funny.
