CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
'86 K30 Crew Cab Build
- Thread starter LNielson
- Start date
I have a new 1350 yoke sitting on the bench if you're interested. I installed it but ended up needing to go 1410.
Thanks man, My brand new never been used front shaft is a 1310 joint. I should have upgraded it when i had it built, but I'm going to run it for now. I talked to the local Six States this AM and they can get me a 1310 yoke tomorrow. I like the idea of beefier parts though but i'd have to use a conversion joint?
What's the scoop with those 1350-1310 conversion joints? Any reason I should shy away from that and just stay with a 1310 yoke?
nice progress... keep it goin man!!!!
1350 takes less angle before bind. It's stronger but 1310 is pretty good. I broke a dana 60 front ring and pinion and the 1350 joint is just fine.
1310 is perfect for your use.
1310 is perfect for your use.
I tried a 1350 yoke on Horton. I realize I have more flex but after only a couple runs I went to a 1410. The 1350 would have been perfect with a linked suspension. Just leave the 1310 for now. When you start wheeling harder and pretzel your driveshaft thats a good time to upgrade
Ok thanks for the input guys. I'll stick with the 1310 until something forces me to rebuild that driveshaft again.
@skunked thanks for trying to help.
For reference:
Spicer PN 2-4-3801X is a U-bolt style yoke for a 1310 joint that fits a 29 spline D60 pinion.
Spicer PN 2-4-3801-1X is a strap and bolt style yoke for a 1310 joint that fits the 29 spline D60 pinion.
@skunked thanks for trying to help.
For reference:
Spicer PN 2-4-3801X is a U-bolt style yoke for a 1310 joint that fits a 29 spline D60 pinion.
Spicer PN 2-4-3801-1X is a strap and bolt style yoke for a 1310 joint that fits the 29 spline D60 pinion.
I'm pushing my axle forward 1" with these .250" thick Offroad Design axle spacers. I debated building my own but for $28 bucks and the fact I was ordering other stuff from them I just went ahead and bought them.
I'm reusing the factory spring top plates. I threw them on the mill and added a counterbore for the spring clamp bolt and milled them flat while I was at it, they both had a pronounced crown to them, one was .025" the other was closer to .050". They are both flat now.
I'm reusing the factory spring top plates. I threw them on the mill and added a counterbore for the spring clamp bolt and milled them flat while I was at it, they both had a pronounced crown to them, one was .025" the other was closer to .050". They are both flat now.
When you have it use it lol
A flap disc on the grinder and a drill would have gotten it done... Access to machine tools spoil a guy.
If not for carving pumpkins with the kids tonight and Halloween tomorrow I think I'd be starting break-in on another set of gears tomorrow.
Upper kingpin seals go on with the skinny end of the taper up, right?
If not for carving pumpkins with the kids tonight and Halloween tomorrow I think I'd be starting break-in on another set of gears tomorrow.
Upper kingpin seals go on with the skinny end of the taper up, right?
First one
Yep, top picture. Just did mine last week.
I finally got the front end back together with the new 5.13's and reinstalled in the truck, 1" farther forward courtesy of the ORD axle spacer plates.
It was in desperate need of attention, I ended up having to replace almost everything. I was able to reuse the drivers side wheel bearings and the spindle bearings. All the other bearings/seals were toast. I found a used good condition stub shaft on Pirate to replace the one that had a twisted spline and swapped it in.
I used two floor jacks to scoot that heavy beotch around from the garage and into position under the truck. That worked surprisingly well.
Yes my cracked and broken grill is being held in place partially with a piece of old baling twine, bottom center.
Brand new front shaft I had built last year and had never installed.
New stance with axle pushed forward 1"
Filled the Dana 60 up with gear oil and went for a nice little 20 mile break-in drive with the hubs locked in and in 4-hi on a dirt track through the local mountains. Everything seemed to be working good. Feels good to have a fully functional 4x4 again.
I have about 200 miles on the new rear 5.13 gears now, so a ways to go with the break in miles.
Lots more to do on the truck, @blazinzuk (Big Thank You, Eric) is hauling a NV4500 home for me from his big adventure this weekend so I will be working on that swap soon. I have a front bumper build/winch install in the works too.
Next up is getting the rear driveline angles set to a happier place.
Looking for ideas for a softer flexier rear suspension but still being able to use it as a hard working truck... maybe air bags? Links are not on the agenda.
It was in desperate need of attention, I ended up having to replace almost everything. I was able to reuse the drivers side wheel bearings and the spindle bearings. All the other bearings/seals were toast. I found a used good condition stub shaft on Pirate to replace the one that had a twisted spline and swapped it in.
I used two floor jacks to scoot that heavy beotch around from the garage and into position under the truck. That worked surprisingly well.
Yes my cracked and broken grill is being held in place partially with a piece of old baling twine, bottom center.
Brand new front shaft I had built last year and had never installed.
New stance with axle pushed forward 1"
Filled the Dana 60 up with gear oil and went for a nice little 20 mile break-in drive with the hubs locked in and in 4-hi on a dirt track through the local mountains. Everything seemed to be working good. Feels good to have a fully functional 4x4 again.
I have about 200 miles on the new rear 5.13 gears now, so a ways to go with the break in miles.
Lots more to do on the truck, @blazinzuk (Big Thank You, Eric) is hauling a NV4500 home for me from his big adventure this weekend so I will be working on that swap soon. I have a front bumper build/winch install in the works too.
Next up is getting the rear driveline angles set to a happier place.
Looking for ideas for a softer flexier rear suspension but still being able to use it as a hard working truck... maybe air bags? Links are not on the agenda.
Are you against going to a suburban or blazer tank to allow 63” rear springs?
Not necessarily, but I have two perfectly functional 20 gallon saddle tanks right now.
I picked up a DIY4X shackle flip last summer, I'm thinking I'll address the rear suspension/fuel tanks when I put that on. The NV4500 is going in first. I'll just start quietly acquiring the parts I need for the rear suspension as I find them, once I identify what I want to do there.
I picked up a DIY4X shackle flip last summer, I'm thinking I'll address the rear suspension/fuel tanks when I put that on. The NV4500 is going in first. I'll just start quietly acquiring the parts I need for the rear suspension as I find them, once I identify what I want to do there.
You really need rock sliders on your to do list, LOL
You noticed?
Yeah those rockers are hammered. That side is worse than the other. Some of that came with the truck, some from wheeling it even on mild stuff before lifting it. Turns out that was very unhealthy for those rockers. I'm going to do that mod soon too. I think I'm going to do something similar to @mrk5 on mine.
Speaking of which: anything you would do different if you were doing that over again on your crew cab? Do the tubes you added stick out far enough to help protect the doors from obstacles? Trees and tight trails are my biggest concern where I go with this truck.
Truck is looking bitchin dude! One of these days we need to hook up so I can check this thing out!
As far as suspension goes...don't underestimate the power of a really decent shock. What socks are you running now (they look like stockers)? When you do the flip in the rear, install some bilsteins or something similar...I have a feeling it will greatly improve your ride quality. Then if you actually tow heavy enough with it, then add some bags.
NV4500 swap shouldn't be too difficult either. Is your SM465 a 32 spline output? And what generation NV4500 did you get? 92-95 or 96-Up?
As far as suspension goes...don't underestimate the power of a really decent shock. What socks are you running now (they look like stockers)? When you do the flip in the rear, install some bilsteins or something similar...I have a feeling it will greatly improve your ride quality. Then if you actually tow heavy enough with it, then add some bags.
NV4500 swap shouldn't be too difficult either. Is your SM465 a 32 spline output? And what generation NV4500 did you get? 92-95 or 96-Up?
