CK5
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'86 K30 Crew Cab Build
- Thread starter LNielson
- Start date
It's a funny but dumb enough to work. It takes a good amount to break a stub shaft and that one you gotta twist just that much further. Probably wont be a major issue with your size tires. I have several buddies rock crawling with 42+ on stock 30 spline.
Shock loading is likely what did that twist.
Shock loading is likely what did that twist.
It isn't stupid if it works, especially if it doesn't cost anything...I will never have a set of 42's on this truck so maybe I'll just put it back in on the other side and worry about something else.
If you want to and have time I have some spares. Just replace my spare when you get a chance too
Hey Eric, thanks man. Once I put one of your spares in, I'll have a gently used stub just laying there to replace it with.
I'm thinking, I'll just run it for now and upgrade to Dana 70 stubs/hubs next time I have to get in there.
or
I guess if I just buy a stock stub, I could keep this one, put a fresh U-joint in it, and have my own useable spare. That's probably my best bang for the buck option.
I'm hopefully going to be setting up some gears this coming weekend, I'll be bugging you again soon with ?'s.
Here's my first one: Case Spreader, should I fab one or just use the BFH (deadblow) on the carrier?
I still have plenty to do before I can start on the gears. The old kingpins are still resisting me. I heated them way up with a rosebud and the impact gun wouldn't touch them, also my f@rd axle seals aren't here yet.
Weld a piece of strap or something to the kingpin and hit it with a hammer to loosen it.
For install I used a long lug nut and a wrench inside a 6 foot cheater pipe. For shigs and gittles I measured with the shop torque wrench and it was over 600.
I've never needed a case spreader but individual results may vary. I always get enough preload with the deadblow.
You can always put it back together without gears and drive it till you can get a spreader.
For install I used a long lug nut and a wrench inside a 6 foot cheater pipe. For shigs and gittles I measured with the shop torque wrench and it was over 600.
I've never needed a case spreader but individual results may vary. I always get enough preload with the deadblow.
You can always put it back together without gears and drive it till you can get a spreader.
Much to explain about the case spreader. Cause you need one..........but you don't lol.
Basically you don't have to have one but I add very small shims to each carrier bearing after my backlash is set to provide some carrier bearing preload. Like .002 on each side. You must add them evenly, and your backlash needs to be already set
Basically you don't have to have one but I add very small shims to each carrier bearing after my backlash is set to provide some carrier bearing preload. Like .002 on each side. You must add them evenly, and your backlash needs to be already set
Oh and if it's hard to pull the carrier use a pipe wrench on the yoke and jam something on a ring gear bolt or through the carrier. Or even jam a rag under the ring gear and use the pipe wrench to turn it.
Obviously with the bearing caps off
Obviously with the bearing caps off
@obijuank5 I watched someone do the weld strap trick on Youtube, i'll try it tomorrow.
@blazinzuk That sounds like a real good idea right there.
How tight is the pinion to yoke spline fit supposed to be? Is it supposed to be press on/off? I pulled the old yoke off with my hand, no I'm not THAT strong. I test fit it to the new pinion and it will have to be pressed together.
@blazinzuk That sounds like a real good idea right there.
How tight is the pinion to yoke spline fit supposed to be? Is it supposed to be press on/off? I pulled the old yoke off with my hand, no I'm not THAT strong. I test fit it to the new pinion and it will have to be pressed together.
Yoke slides right off.
Clean the new pinion good. It may need to be hammered on and off. Pretty common.
Go by harbor freight and get a brass hammer. IMHO it's necessary tool
Go by harbor freight and get a brass hammer. IMHO it's necessary tool
The depression on the pinion threads makes a great spot for an air hammer.
I hole sawed some 1.75" holes in some 1/4" scrap tonight, burned them onto the kingpins and they came right out with a couple love taps with the BFH.
Should I put some silicone under the edges of the dust cover before I press in the lower kingpin bearing race?
Right Here:
Should I put some silicone under the edges of the dust cover before I press in the lower kingpin bearing race?
Right Here:
I never do. The press fit of the race should keep it pretty tight.
Thanks obijuank5
This is boring progress but it might be meaningful for someone trying these F@rd axle seals.
I bought the National Seal equivalent of the Dana Spicer Part 52148
these seals would NOT fit my 1986 D60 housing without modification. The part the axle mates with has a flange on it that was .150" too big to go into my axle tubes.
I chucked it up in the lathe at work and turned the flange portion down til I had .050 clearance on the diameter. The shiny silver band is where I turned it down. I stopped just proud of the rubber portion.
I lubed the seal surfaces with some high pressure moly grease and pressed them in without incident.
I rigged up a press with some scrap 3" bar stock and a piece of 3/4" allthread and a chunk of 1" ID tubing. They go in tight but they pressed in without incident.
They both turn freely and I think they are good to go.
I'll put my kingpins/lower kingpin bearings back together tomorrow.
I bought the National Seal equivalent of the Dana Spicer Part 52148
these seals would NOT fit my 1986 D60 housing without modification. The part the axle mates with has a flange on it that was .150" too big to go into my axle tubes.
I chucked it up in the lathe at work and turned the flange portion down til I had .050 clearance on the diameter. The shiny silver band is where I turned it down. I stopped just proud of the rubber portion.
I lubed the seal surfaces with some high pressure moly grease and pressed them in without incident.
I rigged up a press with some scrap 3" bar stock and a piece of 3/4" allthread and a chunk of 1" ID tubing. They go in tight but they pressed in without incident.
They both turn freely and I think they are good to go.
I'll put my kingpins/lower kingpin bearings back together tomorrow.
Nice work. I wish I had your resources to make my own inner seal press! 
