CK5
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'86 K30 Crew Cab Build
- Thread starter LNielson
- Start date
Vombrown
Mountain Man
One day soon I'll have a much larger shop that I'll be able to take on stuff like that. Iron workers are useless machines until you need one then it's worth a million dollars. I had one before moving to Montana. I picked it up at a farm auction for 400.00 the one locally was 1,000.00 but still a good deal
I have one I can use at work, they are awesome tools. But my house is 25 miles away from my office so that complicates it a little.
Good news and bad news.
Good first: everything is in, buttoned up, filled with oil. Everything cycles, shifts, clears, etc.
Top fill on this trans is a nice feature.
Now the bad: Something is up, I can't shift into gear when the motor is running it just grinds and won't. Also making a racket sitting there in neutral with the motor running. I tried starting it with it in gear to see what would happen. It starts just fine but I get nothing when i let the clutch out? Any ideas where to start looking?
I'm going to take a break and think about it for a bit.
Good first: everything is in, buttoned up, filled with oil. Everything cycles, shifts, clears, etc.
Top fill on this trans is a nice feature.
Now the bad: Something is up, I can't shift into gear when the motor is running it just grinds and won't. Also making a racket sitting there in neutral with the motor running. I tried starting it with it in gear to see what would happen. It starts just fine but I get nothing when i let the clutch out? Any ideas where to start looking?
I'm going to take a break and think about it for a bit.
Just because I couldn't resist, and my trans is acting up, I threw the bumper on the frame rails and got the best pics I could with the truck immobile in the garage.
It turned out just how I intended. That's a small win for the day.
Here's a few crappy pictures.
I'm going to defang the fenders for the wings that i built to go with, but I think it could just as easily be left as is with the ends capped and look/work just fine. The winch plate fits in nice and tidy between the frame rails. I'm really pleased with how it's turning out.
It turned out just how I intended. That's a small win for the day.
Here's a few crappy pictures.
I'm going to defang the fenders for the wings that i built to go with, but I think it could just as easily be left as is with the ends capped and look/work just fine. The winch plate fits in nice and tidy between the frame rails. I'm really pleased with how it's turning out.
Ok, update on the NV4500. I'm hoping it is all in the shift cover. The clutch appears to be disengaging/engaging properly. I put new hoses/lines in it yesterday and bled it out good.
There is a nifty trick for bleeding the slave cylinder. All you have to do is manually depress the slave cylinder plunger a few times, making sure you have fluid in the reservoir and it bleeds itself. I have found the easiest thing to do is just unbolt the slave and push it against the cab floor to cycle the plunger. Easy one man job.
I may have had my new ORD twin stick shifters in some weird intermediate not fully in gear? I did not mod the shift rails.
I inspected the clutch and fiddled with everything i could touch externally and tried again.
I started it up and it seemed to be fine. I was able to test drive it. It will not stay in 3rd gear, It feels like it shifts in fine but grinds and pops out of gear when the clutch is released. Every other gear shifts and feels good. Tcase low and high range functioning normally. I'm thinking maybe it is in the shift cover? inside my cover where the shifter sits is beat up a little, there is an aluminum socket where the shifter ball pivots and it has a couple of pieces broken out of the socketed flange on the front side. That's exactly where it would have to be pivoting to get into 3rd gear.
Any NV4500 gurus out there know something about this.
There is a nifty trick for bleeding the slave cylinder. All you have to do is manually depress the slave cylinder plunger a few times, making sure you have fluid in the reservoir and it bleeds itself. I have found the easiest thing to do is just unbolt the slave and push it against the cab floor to cycle the plunger. Easy one man job.
I may have had my new ORD twin stick shifters in some weird intermediate not fully in gear? I did not mod the shift rails.
I inspected the clutch and fiddled with everything i could touch externally and tried again.
I started it up and it seemed to be fine. I was able to test drive it. It will not stay in 3rd gear, It feels like it shifts in fine but grinds and pops out of gear when the clutch is released. Every other gear shifts and feels good. Tcase low and high range functioning normally. I'm thinking maybe it is in the shift cover? inside my cover where the shifter sits is beat up a little, there is an aluminum socket where the shifter ball pivots and it has a couple of pieces broken out of the socketed flange on the front side. That's exactly where it would have to be pivoting to get into 3rd gear.
Any NV4500 gurus out there know something about this.
Vombrown
Mountain Man
Remind me. Mechanical or hydraulic clutch on this one? At first chomp it sounds like the clutch is engaged or rather not fully disengaged. I would start looking there.
Factory Hydraulic setup, external slave,
That's what i thought too, tough to see through the bellhousing, but it looks like it is functioning normally. I think maybe my tcase wasn't fully in gear? It goes into every gear but 3rd now, Feels fine just rowing the gears with the clutch in or the truck off. It just doesn't go/stay in 3rd. It just grinds and pops right out? All the other gears work fine, no weird noises or anything.
My tunnel is still open so I can hear everything, LOL.
Vombrown
Mountain Man
Elevate the rear tires, remove the shift cover and manually put the transmission in 3rd gear. Crank with the clutch down and easy out on the clutch. If it pops out then you are dealing with an internal issue. If it stays in then you can assume it isn't fully engaging 3rd gear and look at that shifter flaw you mentioned.
I'll give that a go tomorrow morning, thanks for taking the time to help me.
Isn't that going to sling high dollar oil everywhere?
Vombrown
Mountain Man
Put the shift cover back on before cranking it....HA! I thought that assumed. A faulty shifter engagement shouldn't affect it once it's already in gear. I doubt it would Pull it out of gear. What does the ball on the bottom of the shifter look like? I hope the socket in the transmission isn't the issue. Pretty sure that means a tear down....again.
The shifter stub looks good, that socket is sits in is s little chewed up. The shift forks in the trans were all in great shape.
I am kicking myself now, but i never pulled the shifter stub when I had the trans torn down, It shifted and felt ok.
I'll get some pics of it tomorrow when i pull it apart.
I am kicking myself now, but i never pulled the shifter stub when I had the trans torn down, It shifted and felt ok.
I'll get some pics of it tomorrow when i pull it apart.
Vombrown
Mountain Man
Hey is that essentially where it will ride? Or is is recessed a little more once completed? Looks really clean and I am considering something similar. I don't want anything protruding from the front if I can help it. I am looking to recess the whole unit, defang and recontour the wheel wells a good bit.
Bumper looks perfect sir!
That's how it is going to sit, but I could recess it more by trimming the back of the frame mounts. I'll put up some more pics later. I made the frame mounts as long as possible and they are touching the body mounts right now, a trim on those and the whole bumper would slide back by whatever amount was trimmed.
Thanks. I think it is turning out good.
Heck yeah. I don’t know if I would have done it any different. And I can’t wait to see what the wings look like on it.
