mrwilliamsburg33
1/2 ton status
Alright, thanks for the info. Once I have time to play around with everything one saturday, hopefully I can see whats up.
CK5
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86 K5 - Suggestions on replacement parts?
- Thread starter mrwilliamsburg33
- Start date
Alright, thanks for the info. Once I have time to play around with everything one saturday, hopefully I can see whats up.
mrwilliamsburg33
1/2 ton status
Other Parts to question
First picture is of my steering box... how does that look to you all (yea I know, its bad)
Second and third pic is of the engine with some hard lines and rubber lines connected that go from header to header ( I think so anyways) They snake up and around the front top of the motor and connect in the same place on both sides of the engine... What is it and what does it do?
Haven't got up and under to check things out yet... since the snow has melted and its not freezing outside anymore... might try and look later today.
First picture is of my steering box... how does that look to you all (yea I know, its bad)
Second and third pic is of the engine with some hard lines and rubber lines connected that go from header to header ( I think so anyways) They snake up and around the front top of the motor and connect in the same place on both sides of the engine... What is it and what does it do?
Haven't got up and under to check things out yet... since the snow has melted and its not freezing outside anymore... might try and look later today.
Steering box looks rusty but is it leaking? Is it full?
mrwilliamsburg33
1/2 ton status
Yea, its just pretty rusty... I can't really tell if that joint is in good condition just by looking at it I guess. I also didn't know if it was supposed to be bent the way it is... I looked at some pictures of them online and I guess its alright... Do you know what that hose assembly is? Is it an emissions thing?
I'm thinking it's emissions but not sure. My knowledge of carb'd small blocks isn't great.
I'd check all your tie rod ends, the drag link, etc. I'm betting that steering shaft is squishy and you have play in some of them.
I'd check all your tie rod ends, the drag link, etc. I'm betting that steering shaft is squishy and you have play in some of them.
mrwilliamsburg33
1/2 ton status
I would vote that you are correct, I just haven't checked it all out good enough. Maybe I can bring my blazer over to your garage and let mine be broke down in there... hahaha. Anyways, I have to fix my stupid side mirror too. The mirror glass was real loose and I could make it move around and it actually pulled right off the mirror housing. I need to glue it back in there tonight... you don't realize how frustrating not having a mirror is till you don't have it...
I work with military vehicles. Most have no rear view mirror and half the time you can't see the passenger side mirror. I know all about it.
Years ago I fixed a mirror on my '92 K1500 by RTV'ing it in place. Worked well.
Years ago I fixed a mirror on my '92 K1500 by RTV'ing it in place. Worked well.
mrwilliamsburg33
1/2 ton status
I was at my parents house when it came off... I thought about getting a tube of dad's liquid nails and unloading that in there... haha... Didn't figure that was a great idea, but I guess it would work in a pinch. I know there are glues out there for that probably... I'll stop by the parts store and see what they've got.
lectric80
3/4 ton status
Those lines are the Air Injection Reaction lines. They should run down to a pump mounted below the alternator on the PS side of the engine bay. Yes it is emissions related.
mrwilliamsburg33
1/2 ton status
I just remember when I replaced my thermostat a lil while back, that stuff was in the way... There was a bracket that was mounted to a stud that the thermostat housing was bolted to...
mrwilliamsburg33
1/2 ton status
Whats the difference between an automatic 350 and a 700? I found a truck that has a freshly rebuilt automatic 350. He said he paid $700 to have it rebuilt and would let the whole truck go for $700 just to recoupe the price of the tranny rebuild. He was trailering another truck and it jackknifed and screwed the rear end up. Has a 305 and he was sure about the transfer case.
Here's the link:
http://lexington.craigslist.org/pts/2197785990.html
Opinions?
Here's the link:
http://lexington.craigslist.org/pts/2197785990.html
Opinions?
Idk if somebody said this already but on my 93 vandura the brakes would do that. Got new calipers, pads, rotors and still. Old guy at auto zone said replace the rubber lines that go to the caliper. When they get old they corrode inside and will act like a check valve in the opposite direction. (As in not letting pressure off) $8 a piece. Did the one side and then when i hit the brakes it violently dragged to the other side. Replaced that one too and it works perfect. You can stop without your hands on the wheel and it goes straight. Just a thought. Its a cheap easy fix that nobody would ever think of, and saves alot of headaches.
Pretty sure the 350 is just the older style. They started putting 700s in them around 82 or so i beleive. I think the 350s are all hydraulic controlled where the 700s have electronics
mrwilliamsburg33
1/2 ton status
I did replace the rubber lines... made a difference. But there is still something weird that doesn't feel right. I ordered some new rotors and calipers anyway. Waiting for them to come in. It would help my peace of mind to have new braking up front anyway. And my mechanic mentioned the same thing about the lines. They restrict flow and can sometimes cause a caliper to stay engaged even when the pedal is released.
Gotcha, just a thought lol. How much were calipers? Mine on the van were super cheap lik $14 each. And thats a 3/4 ton lol
lectric80
3/4 ton status
T350 is a 3 speed trans, shorter than the 4 speed 700r4. T350 uses a vacuum line and detent cable, 700r4 uses a TV cable that MUST be properly adjusted or the trans will have a very short life. In most cases you can use a T350 in place of a 700r4 but it is going to require driveline and crossmember mods to work, plus adjustments for the above mentioned differences. Neither trans is electronically controlled.
mrwilliamsburg33
1/2 ton status
I bought a kit actually, several hundred dollars... I went with a little bit better than stock.
On the tranny's, Is it really worth messing with? Im just looking for a good tranny and this one was rebuilt recently so I thought I might be able to put the paired tranny and transfer up in my blazer. Just wondering if it would work. I'm not interested in A LOT of modificaction...
On the tranny's, Is it really worth messing with? Im just looking for a good tranny and this one was rebuilt recently so I thought I might be able to put the paired tranny and transfer up in my blazer. Just wondering if it would work. I'm not interested in A LOT of modificaction...
lectric80
3/4 ton status
It is going to come down to what you intend to use it for:
If you are mixed use/DD type uses with highway and city driving, the 700r4 with overdrive is going to be more economical.
If you are more trail use only then it would probably be worth it to use the T350 since you aren't going to need the overdrive offroad.
As for the transfer case, that should have, in stock form, the NP208 transfer case, same as yours, but the rear driveline is going to be different so you would have to modify yours to work with your Blazer and the shorter length of the T350/208 combo. I would say, if your intended uses are as you have listed in your signature, the best route would be to stick with the 700r4.
If you are mixed use/DD type uses with highway and city driving, the 700r4 with overdrive is going to be more economical.
If you are more trail use only then it would probably be worth it to use the T350 since you aren't going to need the overdrive offroad.
As for the transfer case, that should have, in stock form, the NP208 transfer case, same as yours, but the rear driveline is going to be different so you would have to modify yours to work with your Blazer and the shorter length of the T350/208 combo. I would say, if your intended uses are as you have listed in your signature, the best route would be to stick with the 700r4.
I meant the 700s have an electric torque converter lock up
That ad is so horribly written...did he actually say it's a TH350 trans? Factory in that should have been a TH700R4.
Personally I wouldn't touch that trans. You're better off with a rebuilt TH700R4.
Yours not healthy?
Lemme know if you want to look at that truck though. I like the front bumper...
Personally I wouldn't touch that trans. You're better off with a rebuilt TH700R4.
Yours not healthy?
Lemme know if you want to look at that truck though. I like the front bumper...
