CK5
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86 K5,

Might want to investigate an LS swap for a motor. It nets alot of good stuff for a daily driver and a wheeler. You can buy motor mount plates full wiring stuff to make a swap not that much more difficult than a normal motor swap.

Up until 2am investigating. Change of plans. Gonna try and find a LS. I am a little intimidated by the work but I have all winter to figure it out. I wanted to do the rust work under the vehicle but realized that working in my drive way with no temperature control would probably effect the primer and paint so I'll save that for next spring.

Thanks for the suggestion. Now off to the Jersey local page to see if they know what yards to scope out.
 
Here's my .02
I had a 79 F-150 with a 44 and a 9" on 40s and I wheeled the crap out of it. BUT both diffs were open so the only time I broke anything was when I substituted my right foot in place of lockers. I also wheeled my dodge half ton and the only time I broke it was the same situation... The ford died a tragic death when I piled up my tow rig, but the dodge became my designated wheeling rig. After I broke the half ton stuff a lot I "upgraded" to dodge 3/4 ton stuff with lockers front and rear... But I broke that stuff too. In reality the dodge front axle wasn't much stronger than a 44 other than the load rating. So after that I upgraded to a HP60 with 35 spline axles in the front and haven't had any problems yet. But I'm still worried... So with all my rambling out there my point is this. Yes you can get away with lighter duty axles but IMHO a little overkill is a great thing if you push your limits. So if you ever see yourself running a little more horsepower or being bound up between some ledges or rocks or whatever, go with the heavy stuff. It will pay off in the end and if you are like me and keep wanting harder obsticals it will really pay off. But on the other hand... If you build a 14sf and a 44f or 10 bolt and decide to upgrade there will most likely be a guy out there without the knowledge or time to build a set of axles that will see your stuff as a dream come true when you decide to put it up for sale.
 
Here's my .02
I had a 79 F-150 with a 44 and a 9" on 40s and I wheeled the crap out of it. BUT both diffs were open so the only time I broke anything was when I substituted my right foot in place of lockers. I also wheeled my dodge half ton and the only time I broke it was the same situation... The ford died a tragic death when I piled up my tow rig, but the dodge became my designated wheeling rig. After I broke the half ton stuff a lot I "upgraded" to dodge 3/4 ton stuff with lockers front and rear... But I broke that stuff too. In reality the dodge front axle wasn't much stronger than a 44 other than the load rating. So after that I upgraded to a HP60 with 35 spline axles in the front and haven't had any problems yet. But I'm still worried... So with all my rambling out there my point is this. Yes you can get away with lighter duty axles but IMHO a little overkill is a great thing if you push your limits. So if you ever see yourself running a little more horsepower or being bound up between some ledges or rocks or whatever, go with the heavy stuff. It will pay off in the end and if you are like me and keep wanting harder obsticals it will really pay off. But on the other hand... If you build a 14sf and a 44f or 10 bolt and decide to upgrade there will most likely be a guy out there without the knowledge or time to build a set of axles that will see your stuff as a dream come true when you decide to put it up for sale.

I'm sold on the 14bff. Just have to find one now and a Dana 60. I know I can get a 14bff for 400 or less. What should I expect to pay for the 60?

Also, Can anyone point me in the direction of a good thread or two for swapping in an LS 6.0 into an 86 k5. I have been reading some of the 5.3 swaps, is it all the same? I found two LQ9 engines just need to check them out and buy one and that will be my winter project. So far I have a list of items to make sure come with the engine (starter, alternator, power steering pump, and A/C compressor, uncut engine harness, PCM, mass airflow (MAF) sensor, gas pedal, and O2 sensors) The one is missing the A/C compressor but I think I can get one for $150 new. What other parts will I need to get this in my 86? I would like to add some power while I am cleaning it up so what is recommended for that too?

I apologize for all the questions but I want to get this right.

Thanks in advance
 
My son is in Montana with his mom right now. Ill just have him take them on the plane with him on his way back in 2 weeks.
 
She lives in Great Falls. Her grand parents live in Bozeman. I got out there a couple times before the split. Before my son was able to fly unaccompanied I would fly into spokane WA and drive to Great Falls. What a Drive! Being from NJ I didn't know you could drive for so far and see no signs of life.
 
I'm sold on the 14bff. Just have to find one now and a Dana 60. I know I can get a 14bff for 400 or less. What should I expect to pay for the 60?

Also, Can anyone point me in the direction of a good thread or two for swapping in an LS 6.0 into an 86 k5. I have been reading some of the 5.3 swaps, is it all the same? I found two LQ9 engines just need to check them out and buy one and that will be my winter project. So far I have a list of items to make sure come with the engine (starter, alternator, power steering pump, and A/C compressor, uncut engine harness, PCM, mass airflow (MAF) sensor, gas pedal, and O2 sensors) The one is missing the A/C compressor but I think I can get one for $150 new. What other parts will I need to get this in my 86? I would like to add some power while I am cleaning it up so what is recommended for that too?

I apologize for all the questions but I want to get this right.

Thanks in advance

LS is an awesome way to go. You got a good list so far of what to keep from the donor vehicle. Don't sweat the A/C compressor. In the stock (LS) location you'll have a hard time making it fit with the motor mount adapter bracket and the frame. There are some adapter brackets that can make the stock compressor location work, but you'll probably have to cut the frame on the passenger side to make it fit. You would be better off using a different compressor and mount bracket so it's relocated up high and run off of the main serp belt and not it's own.
 
LS is an awesome way to go. You got a good list so far of what to keep from the donor vehicle. Don't sweat the A/C compressor. In the stock (LS) location you'll have a hard time making it fit with the motor mount adapter bracket and the frame. There are some adapter brackets that can make the stock compressor location work, but you'll probably have to cut the frame on the passenger side to make it fit. You would be better off using a different compressor and mount bracket so it's relocated up high and run off of the main serp belt and not it's own.

Thanks. Good to know. I must have missed that in some of the posts and other articles I have been reading. I'll start looking for a relocation bracket now. The engine with the missing compressor might have to get passed up on. I am waiting on confirmation on the mileage on it from the owner. If it's to high I found a couple LQ4 engines to go check out.
 
Dirty dingo makes mounts to run the stock K5 compressor up high on a ls motor, we used it on a friends 84 c10. Thats what I plan on running on my K5.
 
Dirty dingo makes mounts to run the stock K5 compressor up high on a ls motor, we used it on a friends 84 c10. Thats what I plan on running on my K5.

Thanks. I need to check them out. They come up in almost every ls swap I've read.
 
Anyone have any information or experience with Just Chevy Trucks? Thinking about using them to get an LQ9 and 4L65e.
 
Got a couple of little things accomplished while I searched and called everywhere to find an engine.

After I finally got someone to help me remove the hard top, I found some time and got the soft top installed. Now I won't have to worry about getting help to go top less.

soft top.jpg

Then I decided to put in a new head unit since I could barely hear the old Jensen one. Custom tape work to cove the crappy cut by the PO.

head unit.jpg

Then I found my new to me engine...

ly6.jpg 2-ly6.jpg

Now lets see how bad this carpenter can jack up an LS swap. It isn't going in right away. My son comes home in a week and a half and we have a camping trip I promised him (though I think I enjoy the trips more). I need to keep the truck running for the trip. Once I get the old engine and transmission out I plan to do some work on the frame and what ever else I find that needs some attention in the area. So, it will probably be out of commission for the winter.
 
Love the soft top!! how much louder is it then the hard top? What engine you end up going with?
 
Love the soft top!! how much louder is it then the hard top? What engine you end up going with?

After I put the soft top on I was curious about how much louder it would be so I took a quick ride on the highway. Got it up to 75 and it seemed just as noisy or better. It lost the echo type noise the exhaust created with the hard top.

The engine is an ly6. I'm just gonna clean it up and put it in with a 4l65e transmission.
 
Thats good to know, guess I'll add that too my long list of parts I need.

Good score on the ly6, easy to make a ton of power with those rectangle port heads and the lsa superchargers bolt right on..
 
Well, I got my son back from Montana Thursday. My Wife left for her week long trip with my daughter to the shore Saturday morning and I spent Saturday evening ordering my parts. Started with some body repair parts (all on the underside) and frame mounts Added new body mounts, 1" body lift and zero rates just to eliminate the bad rust and try to achieve a stance I would like. Then came the seemingly never ending list of parts for my ls swap. I think I got everything. Radiator, Gas tank, sending unit, fuel pump, fuel filter, trans adapter, fuel line, fittings, radiator hoses, MAF sensor, AC bracket, gauge adapters, engine mounts...I'm sure I'm missing a few things but I figured this week would be a good time for the bulk of the parts to arrive.
 
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