CK5
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86 K5,

http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Performance/809/19210009/10002/-1

That is what I am planning to get as of now. I wouldn't know where to begin with an LS swap or the cost to get one with all the accessories, where to look for one...but I'll see if I can do any useful research.

LS engines are the way to go man, I told myself I would always stay carbureted cause I know how to get into a carb and get things running.

With the LS swap you get fuel injection, don't have to worry about flooding on grades (which has happened to me and cause me to use vacuum brakes and power steering... kinda scary going down a steep grade with people in front of you), you lose the distributor so all of your timing is done via computer, you lose the carb tuning... swapping jets and metering rods, everything levels itself in elevation changes, betrer fuel economy yada yada yada.

LS's are known to go into the hundreds of thousands of miles and still be food enough to through a twin turbo setup on and go fast.

Junkyards and Craigslist can get you a 5.3 for cheap... accessory wise just stick to the stock stuff, GM put a lot of research and development into that platform and it works.

I've got a 6.0 LQ9 out of a 2005 Chevy 2500 with 85k on it, traded a good 355 SBC long block and a bad 350 sbc for it.
 
Also you could be into an LS for a fraction of the cost of that engine you linked from Jegs.

Check out Pacific Fabrication, they sell turnkey LS engines, wire harness ready to go for very reasonable prices.
 
What fuel pump and regulator did you got with?

I got the pump and regulate for a Corvette.

Idk if you've settled on a specific wire harness yet but a lot of guys on here have used EZ Wiring, the make a 12 fuze and I believe a 21 fuze harness (power windows and such). from what I've read they wire quality exceeds Painless'.

I bought the 12 fuze harness a little over a year ago, super clean... still in the box lol.


When I bought mine I believe it was roughly $170.

I ended up getting the EZ wiring 21 harness. I want to start installing it before I put the body on the new frame but, with out the disconnects, I think I am going to have to wait Until after.

Also you could be into an LS for a fraction of the cost of that engine you linked from Jegs.

Check out Pacific Fabrication, they sell turnkey LS engines, wire harness ready to go for very reasonable prices.

I am hoping I have everything I need already. Except for the little things I keep coming across.
 
@jdot2004 if yours is an 89+ you dont need to run the vette filter as a regulator, on my 89 I just made -6an lines from the factory feed and returns to a fuel rail from a 99 5.3 that came with return style fuel system. The regulator is built into the fuel rail, just used a walbro 255lph intank.
 
@jdot2004 if yours is an 89+ you dont need to run the vette filter as a regulator, on my 89 I just made -6an lines from the factory feed and returns to a fuel rail from a 99 5.3 that came with return style fuel system. The regulator is built into the fuel rail, just used a walbro 255lph intank.

That is the pump I got to put in an 87 tank running to the vette filter. Then one line to the rail on the 08 6.0. My truck is an 86.

Two more weeks of school and then I can finally get back to it.
 
That is the pump I got to put in an 87 tank running to the vette filter. Then one line to the rail on the 08 6.0. My truck is an 86.

Two more weeks of school and then I can finally get back to it.
I used to skip school so I could work on my stuff. Just sayin... :D
 
I used to skip school so I could work on my stuff. Just sayin... :D

Yeah me too before I had kids and these responsibility things. My last final paper for the quarter is due Dec 11. Then no school until Jan 9. Just hoping winter will hold off until then.
 
Turned in my last paper and final exam on Friday. Temperature dropped 20 degrees by Saturday. Went from 50 to 30. I've been dying to get back to work on it so...core support.jpg
I only have about 4-5 hours to work on it each day so the progress will be slow. This is where I ended on Monday and finished removing the front and some smaller things on Tuesday.
front clip gone.jpg

Had shit to do today so I drained the rest of the fluids and unbolted the exhaust. Supposed to be 20 out tomorrow. I'll have to see if I can motivate myself enough to get the engine out.
 
Had to put the truck on hold again. My best friend's wife passed away Tuesday night. Got back home the day before X-mas and I got 3 gifts for X-mas. A CK5 hat, shirt, and sticker!

Anyway, I found a buyer for my old engine and transmission so I went out today and pulled the transfer case and cleaned it up. I'll get the engine and transmission out tomorrow for the guy.

Is there anything I should do while I have the transfer case out? I didn't have any issues with it while the truck was running and when I pulled the drain plug the fluid was clean and found no shavings. I would hate to tear into it with my lack of experience and end up messing something up. Unless there is a good reason to break it open, I plan to just reinstall it with the new engine and trans.
 
Slowly getting back to my truck. Over the past month or so I have managed to get the front end tore apart and the new gears in. Working on acquiring a few parts to finish the front then I'll start on the rear with a little more comfort after doing the front. Two more weeks of school then I'll finally have some free time again.


New Gears.jpg

I got this far and had enough for the day.
 
Looks good. Do you have any more pics of the soft top. My K5 is the same color, I'd like to see how the black top looks
 
One day a week doesn't accomplish much. I'm up to the body work now. Removed the interior and found my truck to be more religious then I initially thought. I plan to use steel and remake the floor. What thickness is recommended? 20170520_171252.jpg

Eventually I'll get some more progress pics up!
 
I have used 14 gauge but tougher to work with think 16 gauge would be good for you.
 
I have used 14 gauge but tougher to work with think 16 gauge would be good for you.
Thanks. I found some decent ideas doing a google image search. I like the diamond plate but I'm just going to cover it anyway so I was figuring between 1/8" and 16 gauge then add some small channel or square tubing underneath to help stiffen it up. My plan is to replace the whole bed and most of the cab floor.
 
Since my last post I have managed to get some work done. Just haven't had time to update the build. As of now, I have the body on the new frame with the rear floor section rebuilt, holes in the front patched and just a few small sections underneath to clean and paint. 90% of the ez wiring harness is complete and the engine harness is done except the fans and MIL light. My list of items remaining seems to keep growing when it should be getting smaller and my set aside funds are about depleted. I will update with the limited progress photos I took when I get a chance. What remains: dash wiring, oil cooler, trans linkage, bumpers, one fender, hood and tailgate still need installed, flooring installed, seats installed and dash reinstalled, drive shafts and a few other odds and ends.

I took the winter off to remodel my house (being frustrated with the wiring, it was nice to have a break) but the time has come to wrap this up and get back in the woods. I put the battery back in last weekend to try and start the engine but the battery was weak and I was only able to crank it a few times and it would not start. I left the battery on the charger and hope to trouble shoot this weekend and get it running.
 
Engine cranks and has spark but no signal at the injectors. I re did all my grounds, replaced the cam and crank sensor and still nothing. Gonna try some more today and see if I can get it running.

20180705_142230.jpg

Had to pull the water pump to get the cam sensor out.
 
It turned out my computer was bad. A month and a half later and I finally can hear it run. Well...at least I know my grounds are good and most of my sensors are new!!
 
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