87 K5 Build...Hmmm, whats that Ryoken up to? stay tuned...

[runamok151]

cool, thanks.... how's that little Jet treat ya?

​

It works well, after I replaced some parts. The UPS driver dumped it upside down off the hand truck when he delivered it., broke the motor and one of the cast iron arms. The original blade didn't last long. Don't know if that was because of poor quality or if I didn't have enough tension on the arm when I put it back together, which would put too much weight on the blade. Replacement blades have held up. The design of the bed looks like every other saw like it on the market (ie Grizzly and HF) but the legs are thicker and sturdier than the other chinese stuff.

The only thing I don't like it the platform that bolts on when you're using it vertically. It's about 6"x6", 18 ga. stamped steel and it can flex sometimes, causing your workpiece to bind on the blade (what eventually broke the original blade). I want to make something out of 1/4" plate.

 

[ryoken]

eggsellent review, thanks!


well, bought a truck box for Mutt today, got my blaster kit in and just bought the 2 sexiest, smoothest sheets of 3/4 ply eva at $46 a piece.....

 

[dremu]

bought the 2 sexiest, smoothest sheets of 3/4 ply eva at $46 a piece.....

What the hell are they, like A/C marine-grade ply or some sort of hardwood veneer?

-- A

 

[ryoken]

sanded hardwood ply..... even the $30, sanded on one side stuff was a bit cupped... I certainly could have made it work.. but said, f*ck it, these are ballsflat poifict....

my tentative plans at this point are to leave the inside raw and paint the exterior with the same gray floor paint I've been using..

but it's sooooooo fancy, I'm tempted to just put a coat of varnish on the outside!

many pics to follow...

 

[max 02]

 

[Teck]

Got to see this.

 

[ryoken]

here is said sex....

here's a drawer full of blaster parts..

here's the lexan for the K5 dash and glove door...

Mutt's box in zinc/flat black.. I'll do an install update in that thread sunday..

oh,













and here's what your fingers look like when you wetsand for 2 weeks straight...

 

[Deuling]

Dayum. And skye tells me my hands are too rough... If ya knows what i mean


Get some of that man lotion they sell at home depot or whatever. Ive heard from a few guys it actually works well.

This stuff

http://www.amazon.com/OKeeffes-Working-Hands-Cream-3-4/dp/B00121UVU0


Oh and the other stuff looks good too lol

 

[ryoken]

actually it makes em smooth as he!!... perfect for bank robbery too!


I just have to back off for a couple days.. or wrap electrical tape around em, which sucks when raw already... preferably a couple days of no sanding, once they get this bad, they need to heal.. at least they didn't get to bleeding stage, that sucks, and has happened more times than I care to remember....

I've heard stories of gymnast's wearing gloves filled with goop for hand-healing, but I can't be bothered... just gotta work around it the next few days kinda... I have 15 current glass/gel jobs going.. from 5 hr's to 150...

I wont touch a wrench for 4 months at this point, maybe longer...





new plan....


raw on the inside of the cabinet and stain/satin urethane on the outside for the full blown humor effect..

can't say you find a tool that has woodgrain and stain in a fab shop often!

now, that brings up the question, what color stain? mahog, cherry, etc, yada, help...

 

[noJeepshere]

Either it's the perspective or you have really short fingers on a very wide hand...

 

[Deuling]

mahogany is one of my favorites personally.

Made all kinds of cool $hit with it in wood shop

 

[ryoken]

Either it's the perspective or you have really short fingers on a very wide hand...

Tis a bit of perspective I suppose, but I certainly don't have long, slender digits..

 

[cliles]

Cutting Stuff

The Evolution Cold Saw was like $380 off Amazon. I ultimately returned it unopened because of some reviews regarding modification required. After a ton of research I came to the conclusion that the only cold saw that would work out of the box without issues with the fence, blade, or something else was the Makita. It is running like $425 on amazon. For that price we are getting into band saw territory.

I went down and purchased the 7X12 band saw from harbor freight ($615 with 20% off coupon and tax exemption). It got glowing reviews, and I thought it was worth a shot and knew it could be returned.

It was a PITA to unload by myself, but I was extremely surprised that the only assembly was putting the wheels on.

I made two cuts immediately without any calibration. Used a caliber, within 0.0125". That is pretty good for no alignment and a HF blade. $35 for a better blade, put some coolant in the tank, and we should be in business.

 

[cliles]

One more note. some people said they had to screw with the auto-shutoff. Mine worked just fine out of the box. I mean it is just a bar that shifts the toggle shift off. KISS

 

[ryoken]

wow, I'd really love a bunch of close ups of that and a review down the road a bit.... that's the perfect price point.. spending 600 on a HF item is a bit scary, but....

 

[runamok151]

They're proud of that furniture grade plywood. It's always $$. What are you making w/ it?

For finish I'd go one of two ways.

If you want a traditional wood grain finish use Min-wax's water based polyacrylic (blue can). One of the wood working magazines I read recently did a comparo and the new water based poly held up better than the old tried and true oil based. Plus, it dries much faster (30 min compared to 3-4 hours for oil based) so you can recoat much sooner, odor doesn't linger as long, and it comes in spray cans (what I use for my peppermills).

Option 2 would be to used a bedliner. I made a clamshell type box for my friend's guitar pedals a couple years ago and used Rustoleum bedliner to cover it. The stuff sticks to wood even better than it does sheet metal. It protects the wood from dents (I tested it by hitting it w/ a hammer) and it makes the wood totally water proof.

 

[cliles]

Will do with the pics. Agreed on $ for HF tools, but from everything I can find any saw below a grand is more or less made in the same factory. Depending upon the brand, some don't even change the cabinet.

 

[ryoken]

They're proud of that furniture grade plywood. It's always $$. What are you making w/ it?

For finish I'd go one of two ways.

If you want a traditional wood grain finish use Min-wax's water based polyacrylic (blue can). One of the wood working magazines I read recently did a comparo and the new water based poly held up better than the old tried and true oil based. Plus, it dries much faster (30 min compared to 3-4 hours for oil based) so you can recoat much sooner, odor doesn't linger as long, and it comes in spray cans (what I use for my peppermills).

Option 2 would be to used a bedliner. I made a clamshell type box for my friend's guitar pedals a couple years ago and used Rustoleum bedliner to cover it. The stuff sticks to wood even better than it does sheet metal. It protects the wood from dents (I tested it by hitting it w/ a hammer) and it makes the wood totally water proof.

it's the blast cabinet.... I think I'm gonna do mahog stain and that water based poly maybe. thanks... not gonna bother with sealer and such... it is a blast cabinet in a garage after all..

 

[Chief Brody]

I go through cases of these...Black Raven holds up real well. I wear them when I am wetsanding or just about anything...They save your hands and I don't like scrubbing my hands many times a day.
I won't vouch for any other brand...nothing seems as good as these.

I get them through CMC Government Supply...anyone can $11.99 a box

http://www.cmcgov.com/store/pc/RAVEN-Black-6-mil-Nitrile-Gloves-2X-LARGE-Box-of-100-347p641.htm

 

[ryoken]

thanks... eh, I'm kinda fussy in my sanding preferences... I don't like gloves at all for wetsanding.. tho I do like just regular light cotton, cheap work gloves for hunting high and low spots on dry panels, actually easier to feel than with bare skin...

but for sanding I'm funny like that.. the only thing I will use is a few wraps of electric tape on each finger... I wont even use regular masking tape, even tho masking tape leaves no residue, and black tape leaves nasty black glue on your fingers.. don't matter, it's how it interacts with the sandpaper as opposed to other tapes, etc..

the other thing is, my hands are obviously stupid tough from 30+ yr's of this kind of abuse.... it takes TON's of sanding for this to happen...








*Blaster*

it looks like I may go 48" wide out of 2 pieces of ply... I figured you could only go 35 like they say.. but looking at the pieces template, width can go up to 48, but the depth and height need to stay the same... awesome.. gonna do that if I can...

still need to buy legs... they say steel angle iron screwed into the corners.. but that's gonna be fugly.. i'm gonna do 4" x 4" wood ones...

definitely gonna be a couple week project fo sure.. stoked tho...