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87 K5 Build...Hmmm, whats that Ryoken up to? stay tuned...

Overview Gallery Discussion
Paul, I said Copper, but with a twist....like: Main copper color overall, with an overlay of "damaged areas" in the satin black. Kinda like the paintjobs that have a tear away in the main color that reveals a whole other paintjob underneath.
Does that make any sense.....I don't express thoughts to well in words.
 
haha, you guys are getting fancy on me now... :wink1:


Are you guys talking about what I would call a "torn edge" look?


for as cool as it could be, and as much as I like to showcase my paint jobs, especially custom stuff like that, I am, believe it or not, trying to keep this somewhat sane.... :o:haha:

and anything like that would certainly not be "repair friendly"... on that note, there are a couple other ideas that have bounced around my head since I started thinking about the black...

I used to do side jobs, when I was painting 25 a week, on friends hotrods... We did a few black pearl jobs that where pretty sick.. a blue and a gold one... what we would do is run basecoat black, then add a small amount of colored pearl to the clear... gave them that ever so slight, flip flop look.. 95% of the time it looked black, but every now and then you'd catch the pearl hue.. but that was cleared, shiney paint...

The one I've thought about for this one is very, very light copper ghost flames in the satin black.. Tho I've never done that with a flattened base color... and I'm not sure I would even want flames... I am going for tough, not bling or show... but I really think it could be a seriously sick looking paint job with sporadic orange down low... but like I said, I'm sorta, kinda, maybe, trying to keep this sane... :doah:

Boy, I do miss doing custom, one-off squirts.... This one turned purple under certain lights...


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Thanks for all the ideas guys.... keeps me thinking... :bow:
 
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and just in case some are bored with all the conceptual paint talk, here's a pic.... :p:

passenger A-pillar...


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It's all I've got right now... :o
 
Ya know I have always wanted custom paint best I have ever gotten is some rattle can jobs I did myself. I did do some flames once, it was kinda cool.

I still vote suede black with hugger accents.

But I have a question. Have you ever used "chassis saver"? Is it sprayable? I always see it being brushed on. Does it really kill rust?

Ok that was 3 questions.
 
mello_yello said:
Hey dude love the truck, I've been following your build for a while. I love your truck and your attention to detail.:bow::bow:

Just a thought but what if you painted your truck a two tone like how it used to be with the copper color in the middle and the satin black where it was that brown color before. I think that might look cool, but it would definitely be harder to maintain.

But if you do keep it one color i say copper, because you don't see many that color and since you already accent pieces i think it'll look better with it especially if you do the cage copper too. That's just my two cents though, I'm sure however you end up painting it your truck will look sick.

I was wondering too, when you repair the satin black is it harder to match then a high gloss finish? I ask because i did some work with a painter a while back who had done that type of paint job on a lotus or something and i recall him saying that it would be really difficult to repair.

sorry to ramble
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awesome, thanks for the input.... :bow:

hadn't even thought about that scheme... that could be cool.. paint the whole truck satin black, then do the side section in copper... logged for future consideration... it'd be damn drastic, thats for sure!

The other one you brought up is kinda important to me to explain to you guys my train of thought..

the cage color, interior, copper, orange, etc... here's why I'm not doing the cage copper.. and originally came up with using chevy orange on the suspension, and then later in the interior...

originally I had to come up with a secondary, parts color to offset the black.. yes, the copper would probably have been cool on the suspension stuff... but I didn't want to go thru the hassle of basecoat/clear on all the secondary stuff...

so I thought orange would work good... similar to the copper, and stands out good with the black... plus it works out good carrying that to the drivetrain..

fast forward to the interior concept... I knew I was going HEAVY on black on the inside.. so i thought a couple drastic parts would be good... thats where the seats come in.... I freaking love the 2-tone seats aspect.. but when shopping them i certainly couldn't go "copper".. orange is available, copper is custom.. and i was already going orange down low, so bring the orange into the cab... now I have copper and orange going in the cab... need to "validate" the orange on the seats with another orange aspect inside, the cage perfect... black padding to break it up somewhat.. thats why the cage is going orange...

it's also why I'm now painting the remaining dash sheetmetal black... to simplify the interior look by going down to 2 colors... plus the cage/console tubes going thru the dash will be orange and look cooler going thru the black imo....

the only remaing copper on the interior is the gauge rings.. which may be subject to change.... they MAY go orange too... if I keep the copper exterior, they may stay.....

interior4.jpg
 
original balzer said:
Ya know I have always wanted custom paint best I have ever gotten is some rattle can jobs I did myself. I did do some flames once, it was kinda cool.

I still vote suede black with hugger accents.

But I have a question. Have you ever used "chassis saver"? Is it sprayable? I always see it being brushed on. Does it really kill rust?

Ok that was 3 questions.
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I'd defintely be going subtle on any ghost flames.. black/copper is drastic enough...


nope, never used chassis saver.. I'm a catalyzed paint kinda guy.. if it's available in qrts it's sprayable..

not sure of any claim of killing rust.. i'm not even sure that it's one of 2 methods of "killing rust" or if it's just a paint.... i thought it was just nice frame paint, haven't read up on that one..

it's not a rust converter, and I'm not sure it clasifys as an encapsulator..

I'm not a fan of either method of dealing with rust.. to me, it means your dealing with a "less than perfect substrate" well, then correct that... thats why I'm probably percieved around here as anti-rust bullet, por 15....

sure I've used converters and slopped gallons of POR 15 at work, it has it's place, but if I have the chance on my projects, I'll do it right...
 
Maybe its the love of old skool hot rods in me, but chevy/hugger orange > the copper.

To be totally brutally honest I dont dig that copper, OTHER than the fact you dont see it much. I am a dare to be differnt kinda guy in that respect.

I can picture the suede black with a bit o orange and the alum colored bumpers ect. it would be sick for sure.
 
I'll tell ya what, the idea of the satin black, with or without the ghosting, with the tube bumpers in alum is very intriguing to me.. think that would make the bumpers stand out nicely and compliment the Welds.. I would only do the tube, not the center B-52 plate section.....

and just that hint of orange here and there... I can picture it..


eh, I've probably got a month at least till I need to decide...... :doah::wink1:
 
The 1st reason I asked about the chassis saver is I have a 61 project. The PO had taken it down to bare metal and done body work of questionable quality. Then left it out side in the weather. being I am not a body man I was consitering sanding it down as much as I can stand then using chassis saver in the flat version. Its going to be a low budget rod.

The 2nd reason is I hate rusty looking undercarrages. I must spend $300 a year on flat black rattle cans painting my frames and stuff.
As you know rattle can paint doesnt last long.

And finnally a 3rd reason. The inside of the bed on my 77 is rusty but its more like an OLD car it doesnt get flakey or anything maybe you would call it patina rather than rust.:haha: Id like to fix that and maybe herc it.
 
oh, and to answer mellos question I missed...

yes, color matching the satin can be tricky... due to controling the "color" with flattening agent, not an actual color tint..

thats why having a large batch for all is best... all other repair aspect, blending, etc is exactly like any other single stage... sand, buff, etc...
 
original balzer said:
The 1st reason I asked about the chassis saver is I have a 61 project. The PO had taken it down to bare metal and done body work of questionable quality. Then left it out side in the weather. being I am not a body man I was consitering sanding it down as much as I can stand then using chassis saver in the flat version. Its going to be a low budget rod.

The 2nd reason is I hate rusty looking undercarrages. I must spend $300 a year on flat black rattle cans painting my frames and stuff.
As you know rattle can paint doesnt last long.

And finnally a 3rd reason. The inside of the bed on my 77 is rusty but its more like an OLD car it doesnt get flakey or anything maybe you would call it patina rather than rust.:haha: Id like to fix that and maybe herc it.
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right, don't get me wrong.. there are times when its appropriate.. I just like to backpedal from "the right way" back...

I have always generally prefered convertors to encapsilators... but you can get some good results with por and rb, etc if properly topcoated...
 
I would LOVE to do it the right way. Unfourtunalty I dont have the tallent or the money to pay someone who does.


You have inspired me to buy a mid grade gun and TRY to spray something.
I dont think I will ever do a rattle can job again.

My 77 was done with rattle cans in a last ditch efoert to save the metal. I had a guy that was helping me finish it up and do the skim bondo on the tiny dings and such. we had it almost ready for paint and the jerk moved and left me with a truck that didnt have paint on it. Rattle can camo was my best bet at the time but its faded and flaking now.

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original balzer said:
I would LOVE to do it the right way. Unfourtunalty I dont have the tallent or the money to pay someone who does.


You have inspired me to buy a mid grade gun and TRY to spray something.
I dont think I will ever do a rattle can job again.




Definitely try it. Spraying with a gun takes a little getting used to, but so did spray bombs. Guns are basically just a better way to control the flow. The thing about spraying is there is usually a way to fix a fook up too. For basic spraying, I'd say go for it.
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ryoken said:
I'd defintely be going subtle on any ghost flames.. black/copper is drastic enough...

..
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Paul, I was talking about the tear away paint jobs earlier too.
And I think the ghost flames would be killer kool.

I saw a tear away type scheme on a supercomp dragster in Chicago last weekend, that had what looked like a blast zone about 10' underneath the paint layer. You could see the blast zone, it was blackened, and everything was flattened out then it came through the paint layer with holes from schrapnel. Kool as an ice cube. That dude really had some talent that sprayed that.
 
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