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87 TTB K5 - Luxury Prerunner

Now I'm thinking I want to anodize my valve covers, the carb spacer I get, and my air cleaner housing black. My brother's (who built the engine) company is called RBK-Race cars by Kuhn. I want to get the logo lazer etched into the valve covers after they're anodized. I got a quote for just the anodizing that seemed a little steep to me ($200) for 1/3rd of that I could buy the material and do it myself. Has anybody tried at home anodizing? Would I be a fool to give it a shot?
 
I think you should just leave the front clip off and drive around like that so everyone can see that beautiful engine! :bow:
 
Ok. So finally got it to a point where it starts. I have a short video clip of it but timing was way retarded (18 degrees) at the time I took the video so it sounds like sh*t. It's running on open headers right now and shakes the walls in my house (probably irritates the hell out of my neighbors too). I wasn't comfortable revving it past 2K or so at the time.

I have it set at 36 degrees right now, and have not touched the carb. I have to say the out of box tune on the quick fuel carb is great - It just seems a bit rich. I don't plan on touching it though until I get it on the chassis dyno. This weekend I'll take some footage of it running properly and re-post.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3w4fzI_oWLg
 
Get that motor outta there and mount it somewhere in your garage! Somewhere you can fire it up with your buddies and just listen to it. :bow: subscribed!
 
Yes and no. I broke the engine in for about 45 minutes, but that was it. With the full roller setup I will do most of the break-in on the road.

Thanks for bringing this back... I need to post some updates. The truck is looking a lot different these days!
 
but in that video you had the trans attached and just in park or neutral?

I understand a roller setup is less break in intense than flat tappet.
 
it was in park. A few days later I adjusted the timing and ran it for about 45 minutes with it in park as well.
 
oh nothing bad, just am going to have to break mine in shortly, and was planning on having it about the same way as yours, in the k5 with the trans. Wasnt sure if that was okay, but i figured it was.
 
Yeah. I just sat in the cab with my foot on the brake while my brother broke it in - just in case park slipped or something...

My brother has 4 transmission shops and built my trans, so I'm sure if there was a reason to have it in N instead of P he would have advised me to do so.
 
oh yea, i wasnt saying it was suppose to be in neutral rather than park, i was questioning with the trans on or off. but if yours worked good, i should be fine :waytogo:
 
Ok. I think you'll be fine. Too much work to install the tranny after the fact..... I had to pull mine out and reinstall and it wasn't a fun project.
 
Ok, so I haven't posted anything for a really long time - shame on me! so here are some updates. Engine compartment pretty much done for the most part. I just ordered some new fabricated aluminum valve covers from Jeff Johnstons Billet fab - they will have size 12 AN bungs welded on each side, I will run starlite hose from each of these a remote breather tank. This will help me keep the engine compartment cleaner, at least that is the theory. I'm going to have the new covers anodized black and lazer engraved.

I got my comp cams vacuum canister plumbed in with starlite hose (purely for aesthetics). New wiper motor. Also stepped down to a 1" tapered carb spacer from my previous 2" - the 2" wasn't allowing the hood to shut. I'm also sending the carb back to Quick fuel to have the choke horn milled off, choke block off plate installed, and spring loaded needles/seats installed in hopes to make it more off-road friendly.
 
Also got my front and rear ends predominantly done. Front is a dana 60 with 5:13 gears, 35 spline outers, solid brand drive flanges. Rear is a 14 bolt with detroit locker, 5:13 gears. Both axles have solid brand diff covers. Got my crossover steering from WFO concepts - pretty easy kit to install, it just required that you cut the draglink to fit and weld the tube inserts. I still plan to get a beefier tie rod for the front and have it and the draglink powder coated in silvervein to match the diff cover.

I had Deaver make me a new set of spring packs for the front. I believe they are 12 leafs, give me approximately 5 or 6" of lift, and are about 50" long. It took some trial and error to get the right length/shackle angle, and ride height. I ended up having the mains and wraps done first and used my old spring packs for mock up. Once we got everything right then they completed the packs for me. In the rear I'm using Deaver leaf packs that were on the truck when I bought it.

I also got a high angle driveline CV style rear shaft. It's on the vehicle, but I have yet to cut off the spring perches and weld the new ones on with the correct angle. Will probably be doing that within the next week.

Next on the front I will be hacking off the old shock hoops, and fabricating some new ones. I have some new Bilstein 9100 2.65" x 14" shocks with anti-cavitation valves, and valved specifically for my setup. Joel at Bilstein talked me into a 14" long body shock with threaded bodies. It is basically a 17" body with a 14" shaft. This way when I decide to 4 link the front I can have my existing shocks rebuilt and throw some springs on them.

I don't have anything for the rear yet but am 100% confident
i'm going to go with a cantilever setup. Going to completely maximize my wheel travel and utilize a 10-12" shock. This way I wont have to cut into the bed. I will be using the same 9100 series bilsteins in the rear
 
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