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K5 Blazer | Jimmy build created by BadassBlaze, Mar 29, 2007
BadassBlaze submitted a new Build:
87K506 Build thread
Read more about this build here...
1. idk how to do windshield but the side windows youll see a metal tab, pull that out its in the weatherstrippping. the pull the striping out from around the window and it should pop out.
2. if may set off a check engine light due to the o2 sensor but that may be before the cats if so then yuo shouldnt have any problems (comp wise) but if you live in a state with inspections...yuoll need them for emessions and its prob not old enough to be considered an "antique" therefore its not exempt.
3. brake bleeding is the same as any other vehicle
pump brake 3xs and hold
loosed bleeder screw, tighten
repeat until you are happy with the pressure of fluid squirting out/pedal firmness. start farhtest from MS an move close
i just basically did what you want to do.
you NEED new ubolts.
#2: no, it won't throw a code, O2 is well before the cat.
Actually the ECM can't deal with the simple mods easily, when it's open loop, it's not using the O2 to make sure it's within the realm of 14.7:1 AFR.
Doesn't matter what other people have done or say they've done or seen done. It's not running right if the vehicle hasn't been dynoed or tuned.
Well like I said the plans are true dual exhaust, with a set of longtubes, good air filter and tb spacer...So your sayin that with those simple bolt-on's ill need to get it dyno'd and quite possibly tuned?
Broncoman or anyone...this is a stupid newb question, but I've never done it myself. Where is the bleeder screw at? any pics would be greatly appreciated...I feel so stupid askin this question lol
I found a set of 3/4ton running gear...ff 14bolt, dana 44, 4.10s $400 obo for both. The guy says they are in good shape in his ad, but i'm tryin to contact him. My question...is it a good deal? I want to do 4.10s after readin a couple of threads and findin out that 35's will toast a 700r4 if ran with 3.08's. It would be cheaper for me to buy these axles than to re gear my current axles. What all will be involved with the swap? If i do this, then i need to order a lift for a 3/4 ton right? whatelse is involved? Will i need to do anything special to make the steering work or is it identical on 3/4tons and 1/2 tons? I know i will need new wheels for 8 lugs. Please help i'd love to jump on this right now.
No. You do not need to get it dynod or tuned with simple bolt on like headers, AF, TB spacer and other minor mods. The stock computer/chip can handle quite a bit of bolt ons. Stock TBI will support around 280 HP with nothing more than an adjustable fule pressure regulator.
You need custom chips or time on a dyno with a chip burner if you change heads and run performance cam.
You can remove the Cat with no problems or trouble codes.
IF YOU GET Longtubes.. You have to weld in a threaded insert in the collector for the O2 sensor. TBI will not run right with out it. As far as i know there are no long tube headers that have 02 sensor hole. Edelbrock and Doug Thorly make headers for TBI trucks with 02 sensor bungs
Bleeding brakes? google a search "how to bleed brakes"
Install glass? thats is what glass shops are for. If you have never done it. Dont try yourself unless you like cracked glass.
New 4.10 FF14s D44s? No brainer there. if you plan on runnin bigger tires dump the 3.08s
Thanks for clarifying up the engine stuff. The only reason I was askin about glass was cause i wouldnt mind learning how to do it myself. I'm gonna look into axles. I'm kinda strapped for cash as of now, but if i can get them for less ill prolly pick them up.
The 3/4 ton stuff will bolt on with minor mods all you will need is a conversion Ujoint for the rear driveshaft and ubolts that will fit the axles along with the 14BFF spring plates but other then that is should bolt on. I just did the swap on my truck (well my friend did 4 me)
well turned out that they are supposedly in good shape, but they are a bit ugly. They would need to be cleaned up for sure, and I think prolly new ujoints in the front, plus manual hubs cause it has some funky looking ones (no knob??)...He's askin 400, but I can't pay that at the time. I think if i had the time, could get them for less, and knew for sure how to do replace ujoints and bearings maybe i'd do it.
Question 2. I have 1987 305 TBI true duals OEM manifolds and the pipes out of LMC Truck and turbo mufflers no problems a year later. 15 mpg highway 10 mpg city with 700R and 3:08 gears.
Question 1. long post but worth the read http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=198092
Originally Posted by Metrodps
Here is how I did my window change as BK said it was easy to do. You will need two flat head screw drivers and spray bottle of soapy water. A very small flat head to reinstall lock rubber. *if you have a window install tool works best about $5.00 for it. Looks like a pick with a pigs tail end.
1.) looking at window from outside you will see a little metal clip in the middle of rubber at the bottom. Take a small screw driver and pop that out.
2.) You will now see a small gap between the inner rubber strip. Take one end of it and pull it out in a lifting manor (away from truck).
3.) Now you will need two flat head screw drivers. Start a few inches from the lower rear corner and insert one screw driver in under the lip of the metal frame. Next spray some soapy liquid on rubber and insert other screw driver and work it around to lift the frame/glass out of rubber. *works best going to top.
4.) Once you get the rear upper corner out it is a breeze. Keep going till you have most of the top out of rubber. At this point you can pull the frame/glass out.
5.) I took the seals out and cleaned them in warm water to get crude and old black goop off. I used a butter knife to get it clean (DO NOT LET YOUR WIFE SEE YOU DO THIS).
6.) After they were dry I put a thin bead of black RTV on the fiberglass lip and placed rubber onto it.
7.) I then placed the lip of the frame/glass in to the front corner of rubber and started towards the rear. Using the screw driver to pop the outer lip out at the rear and worked on up and over towards the front. *you will need the soapy liquid from time to time.
8.) Once you have it in you will take the thin rubber piece that you pulled in step 2. Start in the middle bottom and insert it into the gap in the rubber *I used a small flat head to push the upper edge down into channel. The best way to describe this motion is kind of like a wrist flick or reverse knock.
9.) Now if you did every thing right you should have a little extra locking rubber when you get to bottom *(stretches when you pull it). Cut this as close to the other end as you can (about 1/4 inch).
10.) Now you will replace the metal clip pull both ends out just so you can slide them into the clip. Now press it into the grove.
*sigh* No, I'm not saying you HAVE to get it dyno tuned. If anyone can explain how exhaust or intake mods don't change the amount of fuel that is necessary to be ingested with increased airflow, I'm all ears.
I'm trying to keep this simple: the O2 sensor is what TBI uses to make sure the engine isn't running too rich or too lean. When you stomp on the gas, run the truck in the morning, or when the O2 sensor gets cold (common with stock O2 sensors, and even moreso when dual exhaust is installed) it is not used for input. The ECM *HAS NO IDEA* the engine is running lean or rich. So when you modify an injected engine, those modifications WILL affect how it runs, period. If you want me to provide a great example I can, or I'll leave it at this post for you to decide. (or search here on your own of course!)
You *probably* won't notice any problems without tuning it. Can you run your truck after your proposed mods? Absolutely. Will it be running as good as it should be? No, and that's indisputable.
If you doubt efi is potentially that finicky, check how many posts there are in the last 5 days about EFI problems.
Oh i have no doubt efi is finicky....If you havent dealt with the new 05+ Mustangs, you have no idea what finicky is lol. my 06 will go into limp mode if you just put a cold air intake on it...They have to be tuned for every mod that you do to them pretty much. So to me...This tbi stuff doesnt seem all that finicky after moddin my stang for a year and a half.
That's good, you understand from your other vehicle that any mods made to an engine DO affect how it runs because it's demands change. The difference between your 'stang and the trucks EFI is refinement. It's not the 4 stroke operation obviously. Theory is the same, the newer EFI is just better at noticing the changes you've made, so you actually see/feel the problem. Besides, starting with a properly running vehicle ensures you know when something is "not right" solely by how it runs and drives, right?
Older EFI tends to mask the smaller issues, it doesn't mean they aren't there. On top of that, many people with used/older vehicles tend to accept incorrect operation...high idle, bad mileage, poor startup, etc. Run it, if you are unhappy with how it runs after the mods, there are ways to rectify that. Unsure of the 'stang EFI, but it's fairly simple to get into EFI tuning for these trucks. Might run you $300 or so depending on what you want, but overall I guess that's not too bad.
There are reasons OBD1 was done away with.
I kinda plan on doing what i can over the summer with out sinking a ton of money into it, then gettin it tuned somewhere...I have several chevy buddies (mainly sports cars) that know of places that would tune it...So im in the clear as far as gettin a tune, or at least checking it on a dyno. Thanks for all the info dyeager
Ok new question. My plan is for me and a buddy to strip all the trim bumpers, grill, lights, windows, interior, everything so all i have is a body with a drive train so i can drive it up on a trailer. After we strip it of all the parts, we were going to block sand the paint down a ways, then take it to an Earl Scheib to get it painted. I figured if i did most of the sanding and there is nothing for them to get overspray on that the cheapy paint job cant be that bad, especially since i'm gonna be daily driving it and wheeling it (expensive paint job=me worrying about scratching it offroad). Do ya'll think this is sound reasoning or is there another suggestion. Gonna just take them the blazer with no top, let them paint it maroon (aggie maroon) and i'm gonna paint the top white myself. Any problems or is this a bad idea?
If you plan on stripping it down that far ANYWAYS, it sounds like a reasonable idea. From all experiences I've heard, it's not Maaco, Scheib, etc's quality of paint, the cost cutting measure is in the prep...sanding, masking.
If you DIDN'T plan on taking it down that far for any other reason, I'd be more inclined to pay a bit more for someone to actually do a good job than to do all the prep work myself.
If you strip it down, if there is any rust, at least you would be able to take care of it then.
I'm sure some other folks will chime in that have more experience, but GM had some serious paint issues, and either the primer or the paint was the problem. If the primer was the problem, then it is likely best to take it all down to bare metal.
If it's going to be wheeled, dents are inevitable, I wouldn't worry about overspray for that lol.
Several years ago when Toledo had an Earl Scheib's I had a 1984 Plymouth Fury painted and did like you removed the trim and masked it my self. I took the lights off when I got it there and they did a good job not perfect but for $129.95 it was worth it.
sweet I was hopin most of ya'll would approve. I got lucky when we got the blazer 2 years ago, it was absolutely rust free, and still is. I'm not so much worried about the dents as I am worried mainly about scratches. I have yet to dent anything on my beater truck offroad, but its cause i'm careful driving it. The body on the blazer isnt absolutely straight but is really close and not worth spending the money to straighten out some stuff. I plan on a buddy and I doing as much sanding as we can till we get tired of it, then take it to them and let them go from there. I will prolly mask off some stuff, but I'm not sure there is gonna be anything to mask off. The few complaints i've heard about scheib, is overspray and orange peel. Do ya'll know if their method of painting allows for wet sanding? The reason I ask is they say they use an integrated clear coat. Its extra for a true clear coat a la 2 stage paint (i think thats the name). I think when I get it back i might wet sand it a bit, just to try to improve on the paint job.
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