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88 K5 Diesel - Tranny/Trans Adapter Install

scottystills

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jun 7, 2009
Posts
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Location
Calgary, AB
Well, I've been reading all your threads for a couple of years now, and figured hey what the hell, might as well put my own in. Finally getting interesting (for me anyway).

How it started:
1988 K5 Blazer Silverado
6.2L Detroit Diesel
Banks Sidewinder
700r4/NP208
4" Suspension Lift
33x12.5x15 DC FC-IIs

What's been done:
A/C delete - air compressor conversion
Roll bar install
Custom front bumper w/ Kodiak Grizzly 12k
A LOT of custom wiring
New fuel filter assembly
Plenty of random upgrades

Parts that've been collected (not installed):
Dodge D60s (kingpins)
385-70r16 Mud Grapplers
ORD Shackle Flips
ORD Steering box brace
SM465
NP205

I'll apologize in advance, didn't really take any pictures when I first got it. My buddy actually picked it up in Florida, drove it back here, took it apart, then left it in my back yard for a couple years. I took it off his hands because it was just too pretty to leave there in pieces. He's on the board somewhere, hopefully isn't checking it too often!

Going to be used mainly for the trail, have a nice comfy Ram 1500 for the day to day. Doesn't mean this thing doesn't come with me to work from time to time, if only to confuse my customers...
 
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First and second "upgrade"

I made a rule with my Dad, who of course sees these things as a waste of money, not to upgrade anything until it breaks. Doesn't mean I can't do it on purpose. More on that later.

First thing to go? Decide to try this thing on the trail, buddy calls me, can't get his going the batteries are shot. I take the K5 over, pick him up and drive him to Costco for some cheapies. Waiting outside with the engine running, he finally comes out and we're off! Turn the wheel to pull out and the steering arm snaps. Always fun sitting blocking half the door to Costco. Some strange looks with my head jammed into the wheel well wailing on the broken one with a mini sledge with a buddy coming with a new one.

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Second upgrade, grill elimination maneuver (click for the video):



I've got the video of my idiot buddy in his supersh*&&y following me through, after I told him to go slow, smashing through and ending up in $5k repairs to his front end. Can post for amusement sake :waytogo:
 
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Winch time

No idea if any of this is in order, but here goes...

Did some winter wheeling out at Waiparous after a fresh snow. Some of the trails are a little difficult to follow, but ended up plowing through a little gully that was just flat over with snow. Neither of us had a winch, and here's how I ended up.

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Straight to gear center to pick up one of their 12k Grizzly winches. Had decent reviews, and now that I've used it a couple years, VERY recommended. never let me down and for $700 great deal. Didn't have anywhere to mount it so here's our solution

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Oh ya it worked lol!

Got home, grabbed $40 of scrap steel and headed over to buddy the welder's place. The Grizzly comes with a decent mounting plate that was a good starting point.

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Hell of a job, good thing having talented friends!
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Oil slick

Once I got the thing out of that gully found a huge oil pool in the snow (which got shovelled into a garbage bag and hauled out). I always thought the old diesel was just burning oil, little did I know. The Banks kid has a branch that comes off the sender out of the block running a line up to the turbo. Some clown that had installed this thing couldn't be bothered to buy a T.

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No wonder I was burning so much goddam oil... Replaced it with this and low and behold, doesn't burn/leak oil anymore! Except for a slight rear main, but that's something I'll live with for the time being.

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Fuel

Other problem with the turbo... Runs great, but the box style fuel filter, I don't think let's enough through with the turbo. That's what I'll call it anyway. Tried a few new filters and still go the same starved results. Went this way instead.

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Runs like hell. Added a new lift pump (and an ORD engine crossmember) at the same time. No comparison.
 
Roll bar

Until I trust my welding skills to make something custom, found a factory style roll bar. Not easy to find, and this one was in good shape. Gave it a brush down with a buffer wheel and some Rust-o-leum and bolted right up.

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Found myself some not-so-willing labour to do the job. Told him I wouldn't take him home until it was done. :whistle:

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Air conditioning becomes air compressor

Had a thread on this a while back, but just quick.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=294102

Converted the A/C compressor into an air compressor, mounted a 5gal semi air brake tank in the back, and voila, can run air tools, fill tires, works fantastic. Wired a switch from the bank I installed under the steering wheel to engage the clutch. Not having a self contained oil reserve though, I just shoot some air tool oil into the intake before I hit a trail when I'm going to be using it. Works like a charm.

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These silly things vibrated and broke off though, took it to a machine shop and had them drill and tap for 1/2 NPT. Works much better now.
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To go

Which reminds me, few things I don't need (had to make room for some other stuff. Have two rear bench seats, 1 is the grey with the seperate arm rests that velcro onto the wheel well. The other is brown with the attached arm rests. They're both in good shape, if anyone wants them let me know, otherwise they're destined for the dump unfortunately...

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Also have a 89-91 style rad support, also no more need for it so anyone's welcome to it if needed.

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Kablooey

I think that's about recent now... New thing, blew up the 700r4 this summer. Not too bad, I think just blew the output seal. Sprays ATF everywhere as soon as it's shifted into reverse.

The toast output
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Removed 208
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First thought was to take buddy's 2wd 700 and swap the internals
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Second thought, eff that that's complicated. Wanted to find something a little simpler to repair myself if needed. Picked up a SM465 and NP205 from a really good guy in Athabasca. They were out of a fire truck actually, that had gotten stuck in mud and ironically caught on fire. I had two thoughts.

1. Fire trucks are meticulously maintained
2. This one didn't even reach the end of its service life

Turns out I was right. Some of the wiring is a bit charred but not beyond saving, the bearings, seals, etc look like they're brand new. All I had to find was a cover for the PTO that was being used for the water pump.

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Found a set of pedals at a wrecker in Trochu

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Got this guy in the mail yesterday

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Thought I should probably get to work on it. If you've ever pulled or swapped pedals in one of these things though, you feel my pain. This is as far as I got yesterday and I'm not going to get any time tonight unfortunately.

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What a HUGE PAIN IN THE A$$ IT IS TO GET THESE PEDALS IN AND OUT!!!

By comparison doing the clutch job and bolting up the Tran/TC are going to be a pleasure.
 
What PSI is that AC compressor capable of reaching? I know it wont run air tools but if it can pump a 3ga tank to 100psi, that's good for at least one tire.
 
What PSI is that AC compressor capable of reaching? I know it wont run air tools but if it can pump a 3ga tank to 100psi, that's good for at least one tire.

I limit it at 150psi, but I've taken the 5 gal tank up to 170psi just for testing. The tank's rated for 200, but not sure I like a 200psi junkyard tank sitting 3 feet from me.
 
lets get a shake down with pictures of all the components related to the OBA setup

Sounds interesting, I'm probably not going to save my AC at this point.
 
Oba

lets get a shake down with pictures of all the components related to the OBA setup

Sounds interesting, I'm probably not going to save my AC at this point.

Sure thing. Snapped some pictures while I was getting the new clutch pedal set mounted and the linkages run.

This is the back of the compressor, had the pipes removed, had the flange drilled and tapped.
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General routing. Not pretty but temporary. Once I'm done a few other things I'm going to hard line it.
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And at the tank which is mounted to the floor along the passenger side wheel well.
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All that's really there is a 90 elbow going into a tank mounted check valve. Underneath on a sepearate bung is a 150psi safety valve and a dial gauge. The the far end is another 3/8 bung with a female quick release.
 
Clutch time!

Well, today was clutch day.

Pulling out the old flywheel, so much nicer and lighter than the new one (although rusted to hell).
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New flywheel goes up
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New pilot bearing. Yes bearing, for the life of me couldn't find anywhere in town that would let me buy the bushing instead of this roller bearing. Too impatient to order it again, so I guess I'll be replacing that before too long...
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New purple clutch
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And the heaviest pressure plate I've ever had the pleasure of trying to manhandle.
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To do this afternoon:
1. Get the bellhousing & fork up
2. Remate the tranny/tc
3. Get the cantilever mounted (somehow)
4. Set linkages to the new pedal assembly I wrestled in under the dash yesterday

For now, I had a LOT of dirt in my mouth so I figured I'd come inside, drink some water, and catch a little of the houston/denver game. It's still early lol!
 
Before I forget, question for the group:

I've got to get some drive shafts made up. Once I've got the tranny stabbed I'll be able to make some measurements for them. Right now I'm running 4" of lift and the original corp 10s, but I've got the D60s ready to go, and will likely end up with 8" lift to clear the 37-38s.

Would I be ok to have the DSs built to match the D60s, and run conversion U joints in the meantime? Lengthwise I'm thinking the additional 4" of lift might come close to offsetting the increased yoke length on the D60s.

Thoughts?
 
The D60 has the same puny 1310 yoke that the 10 bolt does...
 
The D60 has the same puny 1310 yoke that the 10 bolt does...

They're both 1350s right now, I'm going to upgrade them to 1410s when I regear them before they go under.

Edit: And reading what I just wrote, there's no such thing as a 1410-1310 conversion u-joint, so I think I just saw my own problem... :doah:
 
I'd double check the D60 front, unless someone upgraded it it'll have a 1310 yoke. As for the rear, are you sure it's not a 14 bolt? If so those usually did come with 1350's.

1350 and 1410 are similar strength wise, they share cup size and cross 'girth'...but the 1410 is dimensionally larger allowing it to run slightly more angle than the 1350 before binding.
 
It's true, the previous owner upgraded them. Doesn't matter too much.

And you're bang on about the strength. I was originally just going to leave the 1350s, but now that I'm putting the SM465 in, I'm going to go to 1410s because it tucks up a little further and puts the DSs at a bit more of an angle. Might not make a difference on the front (going to need the CV anyway), but might keep me from needing a double cardan in the rear.

I'll have to wait until I stab the tranny to measure the angles.
 
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