What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

88 K5 Diesel - Tranny/Trans Adapter Install

82355 said:
That doesn't look tight at all, but it could be. I'll have to look at one tomorrow. The bracket for the ball is riveted to the top of the frame from the factory.

Martin
Click to expand...

Nah I think there's plenty of room, just have to make sure the pedal linkage will clear the frame rail if it needs to as it articulates.

No bracket when it started life as an automatic. I'll get to fabbing one tomorrow, but will hook up the linkage first to make sure I'm locating it correctly.
 
Yeah, I usually cut the OEM bracket off and keep it with the pedal assembly. I have one out in my hog barn if you want a picture of it.

Martin
 
no that's fine I've seen it. not surr if I'm going to get a chance at it today or not but I'll pop a pic upp once I have the thing fixed up.
 
Well gladly got the new autometer fuel level sender adapted today. FINALLY. Wasn't the top thing on my list though. Had to do some fiddling to get the damn thing to work with the original diesel sender. If interested had another discussion going on it.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3308352#post3308352


And, thankfully, also got the clutch linkage done today. The bracket isn't exactly like original but seems to cycle just fine. Weld a couple pieces of angle together, drill a couple holes, call it a day.



Had to take the power steering pump over to crappy tire to have the pully pressed off/on (my puller almost pulled the flange right off the pully). A day and $70 later I'll finally be able to get the hydro assist installed tomorrow.
 
Well hit another question. I didn't even notice before, but the front D60 I've swapped in has a single brake line coming to the middle at the breather, then hard lines going out to the hubs, much like most rear axles.

The original setup has a splitter coming from the front of the proportioning valve going out to individual brake lines coming through each side of the frame rail.

Question is, is there any difference whether I remove the original splitter and lines, then run a line directly from the proportioning valve to the splitter in the middle of the axle, or if I remove the splitter on the axle itself and use the original split lines; just run new lines from the frame rails out to the calipers?

Front needs the most juice, not sure if it'll actually make a difference where it gets split or not. Either way there's only one split, just means I get two lines made or one.
 
So getting the tranny up thought it would be a good idea to get my electrical at least started so I can get the old oil burner running again to get some fluid into the steering system (which will hopefully go in this weekend). Typing, it hurts. Little soldering iron burns and blade knicks on the fingertips. Anyone who's installed aftermarket gauges, i know you know my pain!

 
Well it's been a few days, but have gotten a lot done. Hydro assist is installed and plumbed. Still have to put the drag link on, align, and bleed the system but that's waiting on the wiring so I can get the sucker running again.

Now that the tranny/tcase is in, had a buddy of mine fab up a crossmember for me that turned out GREAT combined with some bushing from good ol' princess auto.



Fuel tank/sender are installed, speedo sender is wired. Took an old drive shaft over to Pat's to be modified/shortened. Got it back the other day and looks pretty damn good for $200. Included shortening, painting, balancing, and new ujoints and straps.

Next, I dunno more wiring I guess...
 
Jeep steering link troubles

Just finishing up the steering this afternoon... Decided to go with the Jeep steering link swap in between the column and the steering box. I've got the ends fitting perfectly, but it's about an inch and a half long. I've read on here before to put a torch to it then collapse it, the plastic inside will melt and smoosh out to collapse. Doesn't seem to be working, got a little melted whatever it is coming out but haven't been able to collapse the arm at all. Is the propane torch I was using not hot enough, or...?
 
I used a propane torch when I did mine too. It will take a while to melt the bushings. I hearted mine up hot and them smacked one end with a hammer until it colapsed and then pulled it apart and sanded/greased until it colapsed smoothly.
 
I'll give it another go after work today. I'm thinking I'll stop by my buddy's place to borrow his tiger torch; speed things up a bit...
 
Draglink Interference

DONE! Actually just found that heat-heat-heat-smash instead of heat-smash-heat-smash worked better. :D

But, two more gotchas.

First one is the tranny shifter. Reinstalled but found that for whatever reason it's angled over to the side instead of back. The tranny did come out of a fire truck, so I'm wondering if it was a cab-over or something that would have placed it farther back centered in a wider cab. And before I hear about it, don't worry about the big ugly hole it came through, I've got a boot that'll cover that right up. :whistle:



I figure I'll likely cut-rotate-sleeve-pin to relocate it. Either that or go through the junkyard to see if I can find one that's already rotated. We'll see how it goes.

Second gotcha, got the steering column fully mounted today and went to finally put in the drag link on my ORD crossover setup. Unfortunately I'm taking a wild guess it isn't accomodating to the crossover pipe for the Banks. I know where my first call is going tomorrow morning, thinking a longer drop on the pitman might solve all my problems. Sorry for the silhouette type photo...

 
Nothing good to report today unfortunately. Right now getting down to the nitty gritty to get this thing buttoned up. As I'm sure everyone building something in this section can attest, besides the big fun things to work on, there's $@^! tonnes of little bastard things that if you forget you've screwed yourself over.

The white board in my office is usually used for designs for work, for the last couple months this is all that's on it.



Have to add relocating the turbo crossover to the list, but I'll be picking up some elbows and getting that done tomorrow hopefully.

Seems dumb to have a list, but MAN is it satisfying coming inside to cross off half a dozen things every night!
 
Other than the dash, everything's done except the weldables - shocks and tube clamp for the PSC ram. Have to go pick up the mig tomorrow before I can get that done (and shocks that won't be here until Wednesday).

Bumper's back in with a shiny new coat of Por



And the crosspipe for the Banks has been rerouted, albeit probably temporary. Wanted to figure out the routing on my own before I take it into a shop to have a proper piece installed.



Not pretty, but should be functional. Not sure how well you can tell from the picture, but there's still not much room left between the turbo intake on the passenger side and the drag link. I've already ordered the shorter studs from ORD so I can pull the lift block off the knuckle. I didn't lift it as much as I thought I was going to, so it's not really going to be necessary anyway. Hopefully those get here around the same time as the shocks and flares so I can take this thing for a rip! To the driveline place of course, have to get a from DS made up.

...and back outside to put the dash in. See if this old oil burner will light up...
 
Well good news and bad. Got half the dash in and the ignition wiring done, cranked it back to life today. Went smoothly except for a little air lock, vented an injector and it fired up nice and quick.

However, when it's running now there's a light clicking and a pretty good vibration coming from the back of the engine, both RPM dependant, and both are there whether the clutch is in or not.

Any ideas?
 
Son of a @#$!%

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3321096#post3321096

New goodies though. :D

Had a blast yesterday, which usually involves spending too much money and this weekend was no exception. The National4wd near my place is getting rid of all their no longer carried brands and leftover crap now that they've been purchased by 4wheelparts. Did about a 3 hour dig through all their stuff with a couple buddies and pulled PILES of stuff for next to nothing. Highlights were a new 100gal 3 stage compressor, about a hundred sets of brake lines, bushings, ubolts, track bars, a diff, and my fav the new set of Sparco seats intended for a 911 that they gave away for $25. Obviously I'll have to start a new thread for that one because it'll be ahell of a project putting those seats in... :whistle:
 
Well can't tell you how happy I am to report that swapping out the flywheel made all the difference. Even made the damn thing move under its own power today for the first thing in oh, 18 months.

But now that I've got it set up, pulled the top off and easy to see a pretty solid rake. Tomorrow throwing some zero rates in the rear to move the axle back an inch, and hopefully finish a hanger drop bracket for the front springs.





Also got the steering bled, most of the dash is in. Once the structural stuff is done I'll get back to the dash and wiring. For now I'm happy the ignition wiring is working flawlessly.

Got the new studs from ORD and took out the lift block under the steering arm, gives me lots more room under the exhaust. I'll still be taking it to a shop to see what they can cab for that turbo crossfeed.
 
Alright, so put the add-a-leaf zero rate from ORD in the rear, moved the axle back an inch. Definitely more centered.

In the front we fabbed a hanger drop with a good length of 3x4x0.250 and some hangers from DIY. Looks good now I think but I'm going to move the springs one bolt forward in the front hangers to pull the axle forward a bit more, but mostly to bring down the rear shackles, get a better angle on them.





I've got just enough rake that it should even out when I'm loaded with gear and have the top back on.

 
Well new parts, a few new switches. Went down to pick up shocks and Bushwacker cut outs over the weekend. Haven't installed either yet... The new front lift has given me enough room to turn the wheels about 1/2 lock so enough that I really needed to test it out and drive it around the neighbourhood a few times. With no shocks, sh!$$y steering, and a ram popping it's arm out into nowhere every time I turned left. :whistle:

Ran nice though! Today I got the dash bolted in finally, put in a new switch for the rear window (note: runs up and down MUCH better than it did with the stock switch without changing any of the wiring), put in my new switch bank, and got a lot of the other wiring out of the way. I've now got a working tach and daytime running lights (aka light lead straight wired to ACC power).

Tomorrow I've just got to hook up the other switch leads for the blower, OBA, and high idle, then put the new gauge cluster in. Hopefully get started or finished the cut outs as well; I don't expect they'll take too long but I've said that before! :thumb:

No pics, worked until it was waaaay too dark outside.
 
Side note: Anybody know where to pick up an NP205 shift knob? Did a quick google search, bronco graveyard was the only thing that came up but not sure I want a billet one or not...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom