I have the part that goes in there if anyone wants it.
I even have 2.
One is boxed ready to go
CK5
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'88 K5 - Running Down A Dream
- Thread starter jimmyleetn
- Start date
Ground up restoration of my '88 K5. The plan is to go through every inch of the truck and fix or replace pretty much everything that needs it. This will also be a full vert conversion and I plan to make the vehicle look more like a 73-75 than 88.
I even have 2.
One is boxed ready to go
The cover/plate/ knockout thing? Or the plastic air pass thru thing to land the plastic snorkel tube?
The part where my top finger is or the part where my bottom finger is? This should help you two get on the same page lol.
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yup 38-4357. anyone know why gm put the knockout for that piece on both sides of the core support? My old Landcruisers had all kinds of funny symmetrical design details, but it was because they were building those things for other markets that drive on the wrong side of the road.
Cant imagine GM designing a blazer saying "lets spend more time and money on this just in case the European or south African market takes off..."
Cant imagine GM designing a blazer saying "lets spend more time and money on this just in case the European or south African market takes off..."
The inline 6 had the intake hose on the opposite side from the V-8s.
Ah ha!
I hit a new low this month. I bought parts from LMC. They came in today. I just flat out couldn't find those anywhere else. It's all piddly stuff. I think what frustrates me the most, besides the fact I feel like I way over paid for all of it, is the little foam pieces that go in between the door panel and the door where the window crank is are literally just pieces of foam that someone in Taiwan cut. I paid $6 for each of those. I'm an idiot. That being said I have an awesome person for rubber seals. He got $250 knocked off of what it would have cost me to purchase straight from PRP and he had everything in stock, even stuff that wasn't on PRP as in stock. His card is in one of the pictures. I have pretty much every rubber seal needed to completely refurbish the top, install the windshield, and put all new rubber in the doors once I get to that part. Haven't got all the tailgate parts yet other than the one that goes in the top for the rear windshield because I'm not ready to mess with it yet.
when i still had a slip yoke, the guy at the parts store asked if i wanted that seal, or "the good one".
not sure what it would have belonged to, but there is a seal with a large squishy rubber dust cover... will cover all the shiny exposed slip shaft outside of the tail housing to keep dirt from sticking and working into the seal - also has a couple pin holes in it so air can escape and help it collapse when the shaft goes in.
Man it already leaks. Just over 300mi on it. To be honest. I have pretty much made my mind up that I'm going to do my own SYE once I finally drop the tcase and just send my driveshaft back to Denny to be refitted. I have the tools (minus a tranny jack) and I think the patience and skill. Check out this video where this guy does it pretty handily.
could be a fun project... but, i wouldn't personally invest much time or money on a 208. The 241 swap was sooooo easy. No fab work. just pull one case and shoot at it... replace with stronger case that has better low range, and an internal oil pump. Getting harder to find, but worth it.
I actually have a listing on general parts wanted for a mechanical NP241c. They are very hard to find. Have not found one within a few hundred miles of here yet. The last time I did find one it was 10 hours away and $400 on FB. Had a member on here with one he was willing to sell to me already tricked out but I'm just not there yet in this build and shipping was going to be killer.
Well after a little hibernation I'm back! Duck season causes pretty much all other activities to cease and I hate working in the cold. Currently, I'm putting the finishing touches on a giant parts cache for this spring and summer's project on the Blazer. Soon, I plan on removing the interior and prepping/strengthening the floor for the full vert conversion. I have a really good body man lined up to do the windshield frame, doors, and full top. I just don't feel confident with my skills to do the windshield right and I have no one around here to look over my shoulder while I do it, but it does pain me to have some work on it other than me. I'm currently on hold on getting deep into anything on the truck because my wife's Altima is down with a dead miss on cylinder 2 that I can't figure out. I started dailying the Blazer on days it doesn't rain (no wipers) and discovered the radiator leaks and I blew a heater hose. Antifreeze everywhere. So we have one drive-able vehicle at the moment. Pretty annoyed I had to buy a radiator since in the future a front clip swap is inevitable. Currently, I've been piddling some with the vents since they're back from powder coating. They're nice but of course he coated over the stainless wing stops. I told him not too but it's done now. I did get a break on the price. Coating job is strong, I was able to swap the pieces from another set of vents without chipping the coating. I'm sure the new rubbers will be a real pill but they oughta be tight. Hopefully I'll have a completed one to post soon.
Finally got my wife's car running so I could get back to the Blazer. Wound up having to pay a shop. Apparently, I bought a bad coil and four bad spark plugs, what are the odds? Ended up having to pay $250 for them to do work I'd already done. Absolutely stupid.
Anyways, it's unexciting stuff but I'm glad to be back at it. I rolled over 500mi and the diff started leaking. I have lube locker gaskets on it, but I had tightened those up about three times during the setup and gear change last summer so I just bought another one for the rear. Fortunately, 500mi is the break in period so I had to change the diff oil anyways. At this point, I think I can confidently give myself a sturdy pat on the back for the gear work I did last summer. Only a little black phosphorus on the magnets and no teeth missing or chunks of anything large in the differential. I've heard no noises and everything appears to be in working order. I think we can rubber stamp this gear job as DONE. Considering I have never done it before, I'm pretty happy/proud of the results. All that said, I made sure to clean the surfaces of the diff plate and axle housing with some 400 grit and then wipe it down real good with some cleaner. I went through a torque sequence tightening it up hoping that I won't have any leaks anymore back here. From there I moved onto the radiator and heater hose. Heater hose was shot and the radiator had a good leak on the driver side top. It pained me to have to buy a radiator because I know I'm doing a 73-74 front-end swap either next summer or the summer after so I bought the absolute cheapest radiator on RockAuto. Fingers crossed it makes it. I will say this though, it does look nice in there. Too bad my fan shroud is toast. Also, I'm cheap so I cleaned out my oil extractor with purple power and Dawn dish soap and used it to suck up as much antifreeze as possible, I hate working with coolant cause it always makes a mess. There's only 500 mi on that coolant. I'm pouring it back in there. If this makes you cringe, just keep scrolling. I'm going to replace some motor next summer I hope.
Anyways, it's unexciting stuff but I'm glad to be back at it. I rolled over 500mi and the diff started leaking. I have lube locker gaskets on it, but I had tightened those up about three times during the setup and gear change last summer so I just bought another one for the rear. Fortunately, 500mi is the break in period so I had to change the diff oil anyways. At this point, I think I can confidently give myself a sturdy pat on the back for the gear work I did last summer. Only a little black phosphorus on the magnets and no teeth missing or chunks of anything large in the differential. I've heard no noises and everything appears to be in working order. I think we can rubber stamp this gear job as DONE. Considering I have never done it before, I'm pretty happy/proud of the results. All that said, I made sure to clean the surfaces of the diff plate and axle housing with some 400 grit and then wipe it down real good with some cleaner. I went through a torque sequence tightening it up hoping that I won't have any leaks anymore back here. From there I moved onto the radiator and heater hose. Heater hose was shot and the radiator had a good leak on the driver side top. It pained me to have to buy a radiator because I know I'm doing a 73-74 front-end swap either next summer or the summer after so I bought the absolute cheapest radiator on RockAuto. Fingers crossed it makes it. I will say this though, it does look nice in there. Too bad my fan shroud is toast. Also, I'm cheap so I cleaned out my oil extractor with purple power and Dawn dish soap and used it to suck up as much antifreeze as possible, I hate working with coolant cause it always makes a mess. There's only 500 mi on that coolant. I'm pouring it back in there. If this makes you cringe, just keep scrolling. I'm going to replace some motor next summer I hope.
Nothing wrong with reusing that coolant. It would be silly not to.
Martin
Martin
An interesting part showed up today, a pair of 1976 window sashes. I'm in kind of weird spot as prepare for the full vert conversion. I really want to keep the '74 Blazer window sashes but the insides where the setting tape/rubber goes is cankered up, gunked up, and just junk. I did have them powder coated thinking the sandblasting would have made them look better on the inside. Nonetheless, I just don't feel confident in getting the window to sit in them properly and flush/level. The problem is, I really need the shark fins for support of the window when it's rolled up since B-pillar and top the doors will be removed. In picture two, you'll see that the '76 sash is shorter by a few inches where the roller goes and '74 is longer in this area. I assume this mostly for attachment to the fin. In picture 3 you'll see the two spot welds on on the fin. I think I can drill those spot welds and fab up a piece or even buy and modify another sash to lengthen this part so I can transplant the fins onto the '76 window sashes. Window regulators and roller wheels are the same from 74-76 by the way. I do know some people don't use the fin and it's totally fine, but I would like for it be sturdy for my peace of mind when I close the door with the window up and hard top on. I'm open to suggestions, but this is where I'm at.
You probably think the picture below is just another picture of parts but it's so much more. It's a picture of my submission to defeat. I tried for well over an hour to put new rubber in these vent windows and never even got the rubber started. I used lots glass cleaner for lubricant. Too much powder coat was the verdict. Learn from my mistake. Just paint your vent frames. I talked to the guy at PRP that rebuilds them and he said he'd put me in the line up. I'd rather get a swift kick in the shin then think of the amount of money I've spent on these vents. They might cut me a little a break since I already have the parts, we'll see how much work it takes for them to do it I guess. 8wk lead time at PRP. Looks like it's on to floor repairs from here, let's hope I don't screw up this bad on that.
Today was a day of exploration. I've begun to gut my nasty old interior. A lot of what you're seeing is the first look I've ever had at the bed of the truck without carpet or side panels. I'm very impressed with the lack of rust I found. I only found one patchworthy area on the B pillar. The main problem I ran into was with the fender wells. Both the seat belt bolts have rusted so bad neither a torx, which I think is what came from the factory, or an Allen head will fit. I'm thinking I have two options, one put a slice in it and use a very large flat blade screwdriver bit on a socket or two weld a nut to it. Bonus for today, I did find the three missing captured nuts that hold the top down. Looks like I'm going to make some new cradles that are better than the factory ones. Anyways, I got to a point where I needed to remove the console and the seats and quit for the day. Hopefully tomorrow I'll have it fully gutted.
Weld a nut to it.
Martin
Martin
Welding the nut to them also puts heat to the rusty threads.
It took about 2 hours but I finally got rid of one of the forbidden lifesavers. I welded a nut to it at least three different times. Welds broke every time. I got after it was cold chisel and started a chisel away actual chunks of the bolt head. Welded a torque bit to it, it shattered. Finally, I ground it smooth and drilled out the two spot welds. I'll probably do the same on the other side. Way easier than doing all that other stuff. It's only made of 1/8in steel. Be easy to make another bracket. Since those spot welds were so big I'll probably put a small weld in each on the new bracket and run a bolt with a big washer. If anything get on a hold better. It'll definitely be easier to get a part. In other news, the fender well looks nice. It's going to be an absolute pain to get all that glued backing off of them.
