The whole reason I did hydroboost is so I wouldn't have to fool with mismatched parts. The only pedals I could find were hydroboost I used them.
The pedal feel has changed for the better!
CK5
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'89 Blazer LS swapped DD/Adventure Rig
- Thread starter MAX89K5
- Start date
The pedal feel has changed for the better!
Been DDing the Blazer for a couple weeks now and the transmission has done nothing but improve in performance. Everything is working much more seamlessly than initially. The clutch is broken in and it was like night and day difference from when it was new. Much smoother engagement.
On another note, I need feedback:
I got an offer today from someone who wants my 20" wheels and tires. offer was a little less than i want but i am ready to get something else on the blazer so am willing to take a little hit.
I have two options if I take said offer:
Go back to NBS 18" wheels like i had before with Nitto TrailGrapplers, which will be 10ply (more expensive option)
OR have my Factory 15'' Alloys re-cleared and run a white letter Mickey Thompson MTZ or General Grabbers, which will be 6 ply. (less expensive option)
I like the 18's but I am a sucker for white letters and I think the factory bullet-holes will look sweet cleaned up....
What do yall think?
On another note, I need feedback:
I got an offer today from someone who wants my 20" wheels and tires. offer was a little less than i want but i am ready to get something else on the blazer so am willing to take a little hit.
I have two options if I take said offer:
Go back to NBS 18" wheels like i had before with Nitto TrailGrapplers, which will be 10ply (more expensive option)
OR have my Factory 15'' Alloys re-cleared and run a white letter Mickey Thompson MTZ or General Grabbers, which will be 6 ply. (less expensive option)
I like the 18's but I am a sucker for white letters and I think the factory bullet-holes will look sweet cleaned up....
What do yall think?
I'd go with the 15's...over a 16 or 17" rim a K5 starts looking goofy to me. I love your truck, but I'm a white letter hater from way back. Blackwall out on 15"alloy's would be sharp IMO.
I personally like option 2.
Factory wheels.
.....but you already knew that was my vote.
How did the transfer case shifter turn out?
Martin
.....but you already knew that was my vote.
How did the transfer case shifter turn out?
Martin
Thanks for the input y'all!
I put a set of Cooper Discoverer STTs OWL on the factory alloys and I think I found the look I want. I went Cooper because that particular model is discontinued and I got a smokin deal on them.... less than $700 for a set of 35x12.50x15/6... can't beat that.
I can tell a massive difference in how the blazer drives now with these tires over the 10 ply nittos. The truck lost 44lbs just by swapping tires
I have not finished the T case shifter yet. I need to get some .023 wire for my mig to do the sheetmetal work.
I put a set of Cooper Discoverer STTs OWL on the factory alloys and I think I found the look I want. I went Cooper because that particular model is discontinued and I got a smokin deal on them.... less than $700 for a set of 35x12.50x15/6... can't beat that.
I can tell a massive difference in how the blazer drives now with these tires over the 10 ply nittos. The truck lost 44lbs just by swapping tires
I have not finished the T case shifter yet. I need to get some .023 wire for my mig to do the sheetmetal work.
I am going to redrill my rear spring perches this weekend to compensate for the shackle flip. Who has done this and how far should I move it? ?
I did that. Drilled the new holes 1" forward of the stock hole. Put my tires dead center of the wheel opening.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
For sure option two! They are timeless!
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Also I hear that drilling Springs is difficult. So make sure you get a high quality bit.
No need to drill springs. Drill the spring perch itself...
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Shit sorry I missed the post... For what its worth my starter did the exact same thing with the 5.3/nv3500. I had to mondo shim the thing. Gave me a heart attack when I first started it... Ironically its also the first starter Ive ever had to shim...
Soooo pics of the new wheels and tires?
I really liked the 18" NNBS wheels you had but factory wheels are timeless.
I really liked the 18" NNBS wheels you had but factory wheels are timeless.
I just had bad luck using the diy4x mounts causing a lot of incorrect placement for Trans drive line angles. Did you have to use a spacer between the dingo bracket and diy4x mount? In your pic it looks like the dd mount is way bigger.
Motor mounts revisited :
Diy4x lowers and dirty dingo LS swap uppers. Now the motor is sitting perfectly level side to side and I have plenty of crossmember clearance! [emoji14]
The 6 month old factory style lowers were already rotten and cracked, yay Taiwan....
86_M1009
1986 USMC M1009 CUCV K5 blazer
Awsome thread man! I hope we have a lot more to look forward to. I have not even started the work on my milsurp since it is driving daily without a hith and all the work needing done is nonessential.
Sorry y'all I've kind of been MIA lately.....
I seriously flipped shit when I first started it, thought the pressure plate was self-clearancing itself against the bellhousing or something. I had no idea!!
I posted a picture the other day and now I cant figure it out again! This new Update...
I seriously flipped shit when I first started it, thought the pressure plate was self-clearancing itself against the bellhousing or something. I had no idea!!
Soooo pics of the new wheels and tires?
I really liked the 18" NNBS wheels you had but factory wheels are timeless.
I posted a picture the other day and now I cant figure it out again! This new Update...
HAH my membership was expired...
I've been working on my CV rear driveshaft lately:
I bought a shaft from Kert a long time ago and it turned out it was damaged (slip yoke). used parts, ya never know.
The problem with this design slip yoke was that its obsolete and I couldn't find a replacement. This style doesn't provide adequate spline engagement, the splines do not begin until a third of the way inside the yoke. Luckily for me this CV joint is a Saginaw, which is the exact same joint as a front shaft.
So I got a junkyard front shaft and robbed half of the joint, the flange side. This then allowed me to bolt the shaft to a standard flange type Slip yoke that everyone is using now a days. It also is an inch longer, giving me more spline engagement.
I put it is and it is almost PERFECT. It has completely changed the way the Blazer drives. When I pin it in 2nd gear the console no longer feels like its going to rip out of the floorboard. I still have a slight harmonic vibe at 75 MPH and above. Not sure what I will do about that yet.
I've been working on my CV rear driveshaft lately:
I bought a shaft from Kert a long time ago and it turned out it was damaged (slip yoke). used parts, ya never know.
The problem with this design slip yoke was that its obsolete and I couldn't find a replacement. This style doesn't provide adequate spline engagement, the splines do not begin until a third of the way inside the yoke. Luckily for me this CV joint is a Saginaw, which is the exact same joint as a front shaft.
So I got a junkyard front shaft and robbed half of the joint, the flange side. This then allowed me to bolt the shaft to a standard flange type Slip yoke that everyone is using now a days. It also is an inch longer, giving me more spline engagement.
I put it is and it is almost PERFECT. It has completely changed the way the Blazer drives. When I pin it in 2nd gear the console no longer feels like its going to rip out of the floorboard. I still have a slight harmonic vibe at 75 MPH and above. Not sure what I will do about that yet.
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Also ordered a Borla ProXS muffler (40349) for the Blazer. The Flowmaster has something broken inside and its rattling like a sumbitch, and from what Ive read theyre a hindrance to performance in LS motors.
We'll see how it turns out!
We'll see how it turns out!
Yes I did have to use a .5'' spacer on each side of the DIY4x mounts. The mounts do pick the engine up quite a bit, changing drive-line angles. BUT this is necessary in order to clear the factory crossmember, which was my goal.
I had already hacked my subframe up with the diy4x mounts because the swap bracket's they use put the motor in the wrong location. they don't have the 1" setback that we need to keep the factory trans crossmember and driveline angles.
I removed the diy4x mounts and adapter plate and moved my engine back the 1" with the front of the engine on the hoist all is well just waiting for my ddingo brackets to come in and hoping to hit the hardware store in search of some 1/2" spacers.
where did you get your 1/2" spacers from? what did you do about the size different in bolts? oe is 1/2" bolt and diy mounts use a 9/16" bolt hole?
wish I would have stumbled on this thread sooner. you would have saved me a lot of trial and error.
I removed the diy4x mounts and adapter plate and moved my engine back the 1" with the front of the engine on the hoist all is well just waiting for my ddingo brackets to come in and hoping to hit the hardware store in search of some 1/2" spacers.
where did you get your 1/2" spacers from? what did you do about the size different in bolts? oe is 1/2" bolt and diy mounts use a 9/16" bolt hole?
wish I would have stumbled on this thread sooner. you would have saved me a lot of trial and error.
