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89 k5 Trazer build "The Dirty Girl" *Tubed front/taper, full hydro steer*

Out with the old in with the new.

1" zero-rates installed. Man these were easy! 15 minutes total for both sides.
2186902_287_full.jpg


10-bolt is out for good and the 14-bolt is in.
2186902_288_full.jpg

2186902_289_full.jpg


I got the u-bolts extra long, because last time I got u-bolts (for my dana 60) they screwed up and were too short. So I will cut them down later.

Next thing I have to do is paint the drums and throw on some roll around tires and get the truck off the jackstands. Then I am going to order up my DIY4x axle truss and anti-wrap bar
 
I got them from a local place called Spring-Align they have three locations but all are in IL. They can make the u-bolts while You wait.
 
muddermilitia, where did you get those valve covers? I like those. Nice thread by the way, it's making me think what I could do with my 74 K5 and my 73 K25 roller.
 
Well my truck has been kicked out of the garage, so my brother could put his new project inside and start working on it.
2186902_290_full.jpg


And here it is parked on front of my 2wd k-5
2186902_291_full.jpg


Now to my question(s)

As you may notice in the first pic, the rear of the truck is sitting lower than the front. I believe with the zero-rate now installed, I am back at a 4" lift in the rear. But the front looks to be like a 5" lift.

I am not too worried about an inch difference but I still need to add a flatbed, tool box, rear cagework, and possibly a 3rd seat behind the cab faceing rearwards. The front of the truck still needs a bumper and my Warn winch installed.

Also, now that I have the 14bff installed, I was looking at gas tank clearance and I think with the DIY4x axle truss (which I will be ordering very soon) installed, It may hit the tank during compression.

What are your suggestions? I was thinking of raising the stock tank, but I will have to make new mounts. Does anyone know if the 25 gallon blazer tanks have a flat bottom, or angled? I know someone is going to suggest I get a fuel cell, but this fuel pump/sender are practically brand new. Can you get a fuel cell that will accept a gm sender?

Wow that's a lot of questions! Feel free to answer any/all/or none of them :laugh:
 
thanks for the pic! I dont suppose you have any more pics like before you painted it? Its kinda hard to see cause it blends in with the frame.

Thanks
 
No, I wish I had taken some. I flipped the tank upside down on the floor, cut 1x1 tube to length to box it snugly, tacked it together, test fit on the tank, welded, test fit on the tank. then I slapped it down on the frame. The rear 12' or so sits on the frame itself. I left 2 ends go 1" long on the back side, to bolt the frame down. In the front, I just cut some lengths of steel. 1x2, because it's what I had, held it in place and tacked it. Trial fitted the tank one last time, welded everything, bolted everything to the frame, paintde, and slapped the tank in. Now I need to decide on the hold down system.
 
ok thanks for the help, Im going to my brother's house right now (thats were the trazer is) and Im gonna take a look at what I can do
 
muddermilitia said:
Can you get a fuel cell that will accept a gm sender?
Click to expand...

YES! this is just one example.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2D290108&N=700+4294839036+4294920243+115&autoview=sku

most cells that have a sender included are set up for GM. gotta love the power of GM some times. If you get a cell with a sender it will not have foam. I would rather have the foam then the gauge. with a cell you can always look inside or add a sight gauge.

heres my cell. you have less frame length to work with. mines a shortbed with the last 5-7" of frame hacked off past the shackle hanger.

fuelcell001.jpg

fuelcell002.jpg

fuelcell004.jpg
 
gmc4cw said:
YES! this is just one example.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2D290108&N=700+4294839036+4294920243+115&autoview=sku

most cells that have a sender included are set up for GM. gotta love the power of GM some times. If you get a cell with a sender it will not have foam. I would rather have the foam then the gauge. with a cell you can always look inside or add a sight gauge.

fuelcell001.jpg
Click to expand...
That's the same tank that my brother has in his m-37. But I worded my question wrong. I meant to say is there a fuel cell that will accept my gm sender/fuel pump. My truck is TBI and I need to do something with the pump if I went with a cell
 
I seen some where out there on the net exactly what you are looking for. sorry I forgot where, but it was an adapter to mount the fuel pump in a fuel cell type tank. Try talking to a fab. shop. You would only need a ring (made of flat plate alum.) that bolts to the tank and has the bolt pattern of your pump. A jig saw and drill you could probably do it yourself. I bought a 20 gal. tank from jegs and it has a sender and foam. if that doesn't work then maybe a intank fuel pump from ebay or something for cheap. I know your trying to keep your pump. just a suggestion though.
 
nova said:
I seen some where out there on the net exactly what you are looking for. sorry I forgot where, but it was an adapter to mount the fuel pump in a fuel cell type tank. Try talking to a fab. shop. You would only need a ring (made of flat plate alum.) that bolts to the tank and has the bolt pattern of your pump. A jig saw and drill you could probably do it yourself. I bought a 20 gal. tank from jegs and it has a sender and foam. if that doesn't work then maybe a intank fuel pump from ebay or something for cheap. I know your trying to keep your pump. just a suggestion though.
Click to expand...
Alright guys thanks for all your help with my gas tank issue. I now have a couple ideas to work with, but I'm not going to start untill I have the axle truss and antiwrap bar installed.

Back to my other question: The rear is sitting low. I already have a zero-rate installed there and i really dont want to replace that with a block. What if I removed a leaf from the front spring pack? My 52s in the front are 5-leaf with an overload. Should I keep the overload and remove the lower leaf?
 
I say take the overload out. Then you might be close to level. The rear of the truck will support a lot of weight before it even starts to squat. Do you have an overload in the rear? you could always add one back there and you'd just need new bolts for the zero rate.
 
mrdrinksalil said:
I say take the overload out. Then you might be close to level. The rear of the truck will support a lot of weight before it even starts to squat. Do you have an overload in the rear? you could always add one back there and you'd just need new bolts for the zero rate.
Click to expand...
In the rear the 64s are comprised of 2-leafs and an overload. I have enough thread in the center pin(~1") and the u-bolts(~2"s) to add another leaf. Is this safe to do? I got another set of 64s (also free) they are 2-leaf with overload as well.

I was thinking maybe I could remove a leaf from that pack, cut it down a little, and then install it into my current spring pack. But I'm not sure if that would be safe to do.

Also the front spring pack is 5-leaf with an overload. every 52" spring swap i have seen on here had 4-leaf +overload. So maybe I should remove the lowest leaf in the pack?

Another thing to think about is that this 52" spring pack is fairly new. I originally installed it in the rear when I first lifted the truck (with ORD shackle flip) Is it possible that the springs are still settling in? I put maybe 4,000 road miles and 2 wheeling trips on them.
 
muddermilitia said:
Also the front spring pack is 5-leaf with an overload. every 52" spring swap i have seen on here had 4-leaf +overload. So maybe I should remove the lowest leaf in the pack?
Click to expand...


I would say remove a leaf, but why the lowest one? why not one from the middle like the 2nd to last one. In my leaf packs the lowest one seem to be used for proper arch and equaling out the load when flattened before using the overload leaf.
 
nova said:
I would say remove a leaf, but why the lowest one? why not one from the middle like the 2nd to last one. In my leaf packs the lowest one seem to be used for proper arch and equaling out the load when flattened before using the overload leaf.
Click to expand...
I only said that because the bottom leaf is the only one, besides the overload, that is not clamped
 
here's a pic of the front 52" leaf pack
2186902_236_full.jpg

I'm thinking of pulling out the leaf just above the overload, the other leafs above that are clamped, in the front only.
 
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