CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

89 k5 Trazer build "The Dirty Girl" *Tubed front/taper, full hydro steer*

muddermilitia

ThatTrazerGuy
 Premium
GMOTM Winner
Joined
Nov 10, 2005
Posts
6,444
Reaction score
1,484
Location
NE Illinois
EDIT:For those of you first reading this now, this is a very long thread that is now 6 years old lol. The build plan changed a few times during the course of this thread but if you have the time to read it, I think you will enjoy it. So without further ado....


Well after seeing all the build threads floating around, I've decided that I should start my own so that I can keep all my modifications in one place.

This is my first 4x4 and its also my first project vehicle. Here's some pics of the truck and the different stages that it has gone through.

First mod: four weeks after buying truck for $850. 35X12.50R15 Trxus Mts and front fender trimming

2186902_2_full.jpg


Next stage: 4" lift, some cutting to rear quarter and rear bumper ends cut off
2186902_34_full.jpg


Third Stage: Body swap. Chopped off body in preparation to put on pickup cab here's a few pics of that.
2186902_35_full.jpg

2186902_47_full.jpg

2186902_72_full.jpg

Here I have painted the front clip and have tapped off where I planned to cut the doors into half-doors (I have not cut them yet)
2186902_78_full.jpg


Fourth Stage: I am currently at this stage right now.

The plans include: 1-ton axles (5.13 gears, detroit front, detroit rear)
52" front springs with B-52 mounts and 7.25" shackles
64" rear springs with DIY 7" shackles and zero rates
Swap out the T-case, I'm now thinking a doubler might be the way to go
Crossover Steer with hydro assist added later
Finish up rear flatbed with some tube work
Finish up rollcage, adding a few things to it
Mount up my Warn XD9000i winch and build custom front bumper
Cut out rockers and replace with 2X3 rect. tubing
wheels: 16"steelies with weld-on beadlocks, Tires: 38.5X15" boggers, or possibly 39.5X13.5" Iroks
So here is what it looks like now With the 64"s recently installed

2186902_147_full.jpg


I will add some more pics later on tonight. Im starting on the 52" spring swap this weekend
 
Last edited:
Look who`s a cool kid now:rolleyes: ....Nice build up, keep it going...
 
you have now reached the point where it is easier to list what is left unmodified from what you originally bought then it is to list the new stuff.

I am down to frame, bed, trans(700R4), and front clip, and I am getting ready to start tapering the the bed and front clip.:doah:

keep the pics coming, it looks good.
 
Alright some more pics.
Here's my Warn XD9000i that's sitting in my basement right now :doah: eventually it will find its way onto my truck
2186902_112_full.jpg


Here's the Dana 60 that Im putting in. I bought it practically finished. It already has 5.13 gears, detroit locker, 35 spline shafts, brand new loaded calipers. It just needs a pair of drive flanges, U-bolts, and heavy duty diff cover
2186902_110_full.jpg


And here's a pair of bucket seats that Santa brought.
2186902_151_full.jpg

Here they are sitting in the truck (not mounted yet)
2186902_152_full.jpg
 
Looking good. How do you like the Trxus M/T's in the snow. I had them on my sami, but never got to drive it in the snow. They were good in everything else i did though. Thinking 35x12.50 on my 87 truck. Thanks.

Phil
 
PhilS10HO said:
Looking good. How do you like the Trxus M/T's in the snow. I had them on my sami, but never got to drive it in the snow. They were good in everything else i did though. Thinking 35x12.50 on my 87 truck. Thanks.

Phil
I've never wheeled them in the snow, but when the k-5 was my daily driver I drove it to and from work a few times in the snow and they were awesome! No need to put in 4wd. I actually found it hard to fishtail the truck because they got great traction
 
Alright I started on the 52" spring swap. I got the springs, shocks, front bumper off. Tomarrow I have to dissconnect the brake lines and pull out the front axle.

Any suggestions on how to plug up the lines so I don't leak fluid all over the place?

Any way on to the pics
2186902_155_full.jpg


Yea somethings missing here :doah:
2186902_154_full.jpg
 
muddermilitia said:
Alright I started on the 52" spring swap. I got the springs, shocks, front bumper off. Tomarrow I have to dissconnect the brake lines and pull out the front axle.

Any suggestions on how to plug up the lines so I don't leak fluid all over the place?

Don't. Hang the calipers up somewhere safe with bailing wire or bungee cords, leave them plumbed.

Unless you're changing the brake lines out or something, in which case a small diameter bolt (1/4"? 5/16"?) or the pinchers made expressly for the purpose.

-- A
 
dremu said:
Don't. Hang the calipers up somewhere safe with bailing wire or bungee cords, leave them plumbed.

Unless you're changing the brake lines out or something, in which case a small diameter bolt (1/4"? 5/16"?) or the pinchers made expressly for the purpose.

-- A
Man why didnt I think of that? Oh and I couldnt use the pinchers because I have stainless lines and those would crush them. And another question. Will these lines bolt up to the Dana 60 once I put it in?
 
muddermilitia said:
Man why didnt I think of that? Oh and I couldnt use the pinchers because I have stainless lines and those would crush them. And another question. Will these lines bolt up to the Dana 60 once I put it in?

IIRC, the new-style lines, yes. ("Old" being like 74ish D44 calipers and "new" being 1980-something 10-bolt ... past that, I don't remember.)

-- A
 
Alright I got a little more done today. Not much cause I had to watch the Bears game, GO BEARS!!! So I started predrilling some of the rivets and pulled the 10-bolt.
2186902_156_full.jpg


And now the 10-bolt sits in its final resting place :D
2186902_157_full.jpg
 
Citizen Rider said:
Your brake lines will work just right on your 60. Didnt have to do 1 thing to swap mine over.
Thanks, Man I cant wait to get that 60 in! I finally wont be afraid of the go pedal :D
 
So tonight, after a little swearing :mad:, I got all the rivets off the front hangers/body mounts. Tomarrow after work I'm going to work on removing the shackle hangers
 
muddermilitia said:
So tonight, after a little swearing :mad:, I got all the rivets off the front hangers/body mounts. Tomarrow after work I'm going to work on removing the shackle hangers
well, you can`t update without posting pics :deal:
 
Alright NEK5 here's some progress pics. Front mounts off for good and I started pre-drilling the rivets for the shackle hanger.
2186902_160_full.jpg

2186902_161_full.jpg
 
Last edited:
Alright I've slowed down a little, but I promise an update tomarrow, with pics of course. The shackle hangers have been removed, next thing Im working on is cleaning up the frame to prep for a little paint. And I think I will go ahead and remove the bumpstop mounts too.

Now on to the questions:
Do you guys think I should get the B-52 mounts for my spring swap, or should I beef up the stock mounts and move them into place. Then use the saved money towards the DIY backbone, which I plan on getting anyway.

Also, I'm debating on what wheels I should get. Im about 90% sure I will go with the 38.5X15 Boggers. But I was thinking of getting a set of cheap black steelies (16") and welding on some beadlock rings from RuffStuff specialties since he has that deal going on now, $190 for a set (plus I won a $100 gift certificate awhile ago)
or, I could go with h1 wheels and 2" spacers.

Let me know what you think, and updates tomarrow I promise
 
muddermilitia said:
Alright I've slowed down a little, but I promise an update tomarrow, with pics of course. The shackle hangers have been removed, next thing Im working on is cleaning up the frame to prep for a little paint. And I think I will go ahead and remove the bumpstop mounts too.

Now on to the questions:
Do you guys think I should get the B-52 mounts for my spring swap, or should I beef up the stock mounts and move them into place. Then use the saved money towards the DIY backbone, which I plan on getting anyway.

Also, I'm debating on what wheels I should get. Im about 90% sure I will go with the 38.5X15 Boggers. But I was thinking of getting a set of cheap black steelies (16") and welding on some beadlock rings from RuffStuff specialties since he has that deal going on now, $190 for a set (plus I won a $100 gift certificate awhile ago)
or, I could go with h1 wheels and 2" spacers.

Let me know what you think, and updates tomarrow I promise
Spacers scare me... more stuff to check the tightness on, and you hafta pull your wheels to get to them. Weld-on beadlocks would be my preference.

Also, it's a tossup on the front mounts. I built my own, back before Kert was making these. Mine were cheap, by comparison, though they took me a while to do up. Given the opportunity to do it over again, I'd still do my own, cuz I enjoy welding... but for the time spent, Kert's would be simpler :D

http://www.slosh.com/ck5/front-spring-mounts-painted-1.JPG

http://www.slosh.com/ck5/front-spring-mount-painted-and-bolted.JPG

If you have the fab skills and a welder, I'd say do a new set yourself ... if not, I don't see beefing up the stock ones. Either move them, per the write up, and run them ... or get Kert's kit and be done with it. His stuff is simple, and beefy, which is a good combination :deal:

-- A
 
Alright made a little more progress tonight.
I removed both bumpstop mounts and I started cleaning up the frame in preparation for paint.

Since I know there are some people on here that will be removing rivets soon *cough* NEK5 *cough* I thought I would share with you how I do it. I've been using this method for awhile and I have found that it works really well.

I start out by drilling through the head of the rivet using a small bit like 1/8". Make sure you drill in the center. The better centered the hole is the easier it will be to chisel off the rivet.
2186902_162_full.jpg


Then I go back with larger bits (1/4", 3/8", 11/16") and drill out the holes.
2186902_164_full.jpg


Then, using the corner of my chisel, I knock the head off. I've gotten to point where it just takes two hits to knock the head off. Then using a punch, knock the rest of the rivet out. Sometimes they are stubborn, so you may have to drill some more of the rivet. I will usually go back with the 1/4" bit and drill more to relieve the pressure, then the rivet should knock out.
2186902_165_full.jpg


So after I removed both the bumpstop mounts, I took the grinder to the frame to remove the rust.
2186902_166_full.jpg
 
Last edited:
Top Bottom