Looking good! I can't wait to see pictures of it on the trail
It will be a wood top for now. Next year we are gonna weld on a steel plateare you gunna put wood on the bed or what?
I will try and get some for you tomarrowHmm...interesting mounts. I`m getting to the point where I NEED to do my bed...Got any bigger pics of the bed.
Yes that is a zerk protector. Kert at DIY4x makes emthis is just here to post a picture.



My bro and I worked on the doubler xmember this weekend. We got most of it done;
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Still need to drill and bolt it to the frame. We also need to make some tabs for the rubber bushings to sit on and we got to make something to support the 205, got a couple ideas floating around on how to do that.
Also here's a pic on the current progress of the center console. Need to drill some holes and make a mount for the front
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I know you have some tube... get to using it damn it ...![]()
All that tube I got is going to be used for the flatbed. Any extra will be used on the front bumperI really dont want to get into moving the motor mounts up. As it sits the trans pan is about level. I could have clocked the 205 up 1 more inch but that wouldnt gain a whole lot as the 203 range box still hangs down. I also could have flipped the range box upside down but I thought that would complicate things. I'm going to run this as it is and if I find im hitting the belly pan alot then I will go back and change some things.I know I'm coming in here late to the party, but I have a question. Maybe it's been answered, I just skipped to the last page though.
Why don't you raise up the entire drivetrain to get yourself a flat underbelly? Will that cause you driveline angle issues or do you not want it that high in the cab, or both, or neither.
Just wondering.
Later,
Buddy
Thank you for the tips, I am definitly going to look into that. If I were to put plates on the outside of the frame bolting through the side of the frame and angle iron, would that help out?Just a fabrication suggestion.
You might look at throwing a few frame stiffners in to connect the top and bottom flanges of the C channel frame. A common failure is seeing the frame start to fails as the bottom flange folds up. Three per side would be good. You can cut the back out so the lines that are connected to the frame stay in one spot. You just need to weld the top and bottom flanges to the stiffner and then a few inches of the vertical leg as well.
Also you could connect the two legs of the angle Iron next to each of your Crossmember tubes to keep the angle iron from folding up as well.
Thanks but I gotta give credit where its due, my brother helped me alot on this! It was much more complicated then we originally thought it would beGreat job on the crossmember Ryan![]()
My step dads jimmy is painted in that exact same od color and it looks sweet. If you dont mind i'd like to steal the idea for shock towers and use em untill i go to front coils. Cant wait to see it out on the road and trail........