CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond

Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
So does that mean the the sector shaft should not have any play?
I am pretty confident that there shouldn't be that much play, but were you noticing anything while driving? I would expect an eight inch without hydraulic pressure in the system, but I may be wrong. I know that there is play on the input side with engine off. But I also think that if the box is adjusted properly and everything feels proper while driving, then don't drive yourself crazy looking for a problem. But others may not like this mentality.
 
the sector shaft and matching gear in the box are tappered and work like a ring and pinion gear for mesh .

box has to be centered in left/right !
loosen the jamb nut holding the screw .
turn screw holding nut .
bottom out just a tiny bit .
back off a tiny bit .
tighten the jamb nut holding the screw solid .

this is how i was told to adjust the sector shaft match up on a gm style box we run . any preload can burn up the box .

and this info is for stock setups and boxes . i have no clue what the aftermarket box companys like to do for play adjustment settings .
 
Watching hippies on the highway

View attachment 351983
i got a cure for that problem :whistle: @Bent77


1227181603b-jpg.289610
 
I am pretty confident that there shouldn't be that much play, but were you noticing anything while driving? I would expect an eight inch without hydraulic pressure in the system, but I may be wrong. I know that there is play on the input side with engine off. But I also think that if the box is adjusted properly and everything feels proper while driving, then don't drive yourself crazy looking for a problem. But others may not like this mentality.
I haven't noticed anything specifically while driving. I imagine if it has loosened up over time, I have probably just adapted to it.
 
I haven't noticed anything specifically while driving. I imagine if it has loosened up over time, I have probably just adapted to it.
This could be very true, but you are also very particular about things, I would bet that if it was bad, you would notice.
This is one of the common traits with those of us on this forum. We pay attention to stuff!
:saweet:
 
Fresh from a visit to @Bent77

2020-09-05 16.18.37.jpg

But first I stopped by @CK5 to meet up with @Shawn for these:

2020-09-05 16.49.53.jpg

One for me and one for @B_to_C .

And in between those stops I dropped a Tuffy console @Capt Ron and stopped by @Raggedy_Ann to say hi. I try to get all of my Denver visits done in 1 big circuit, kinda like ripping the bandaide off.
 
I took this thing in to get an alignment check before driving 1000 miles over the course of Blazer Bash. Mechanic called me and said I need a new left "top plate" or tie rod end.

Took me a minute to realize by "top plate" he was talking about the high steer arm. When I replaced the tie rod ends, I didn't think to check to see if it was still sloppy.

Apparently the tie rod hole was wallowed out. When I went to take it apart today, the nut was loose like I never torqued it. I'm certain I torqued because I wouldn't have put the cotter pin in otherwise.

I went ahead tightened it up and it was still sloppy. So I put in the new steering arm @Bent77 picked up for me.

20200906_135009.jpg

There's no wiggle now.
 
I took this thing in to get an alignment check before driving 1000 miles over the course of Blazer Bash. Mechanic called me and said I need a new left "top plate" or tie rod end.

Took me a minute to realize by "top plate" he was talking about the high steer arm. When I replaced the tie rod ends, I didn't think to check to see if it was still sloppy.

Apparently the tie rod hole was wallowed out. When I went to take it apart today, the nut was loose like I never torqued it. I'm certain I torqued because I wouldn't have put the cotter pin in otherwise.

I went ahead tightened it up and it was still sloppy. So I put in the new steering arm @Bent77 picked up for me.

View attachment 352251

There's no wiggle now.
You're letting others mess with your truck??
My son and I did an "alignment " on mine yesterday with a tape measure... test drive has to happen yet..
 
You're letting others mess with your truck??
My son and I did an "alignment " on mine yesterday with a tape measure... test drive has to happen yet..
I've tried a DIY alignment. Mostly ruined a set of tires. I'll spend $80 to have it done by a shop to save a $1600 set of tires.

It's the shop we use for company trucks. They're older guys and get the wheeling and customizing thing. First time I called him for prices he said, "If you're just price checking, I can tell you we're not the cheapest, but we stand behind our work."

But truthfully it's still hard to leave my truck at some other shop.
 
I've tried a DIY alignment. Mostly ruined a set of tires. I'll spend $80 to have it done by a shop to save a $1600 set of tires.

It's the shop we use for company trucks. They're older guys and get the wheeling and customizing thing. First time I called him for prices he said, "If you're just price checking, I can tell you we're not the cheapest, but we stand behind our work."

But truthfully it's still hard to leave my truck at some other shop.

Go down to your local steel shop, buy a steel rod and tube that fit together pretty nicely and are wide enough to go between the wheels of your truck. Expand said rod/sleeve out between the frontmost part of your wheel and use a triangle file to scribe a line in it, repeat at the rearmost part of your wheel and see what your tow is. Use a sharpy to cover your scribe line and repeat until you have about 1/8" more rod showing at the rear than the front.

This is how I've aligned my trucks for the last 10 years, my rear tires still wear more than my fronts, even on my Silverado that gets thousands of miles driving all over the state on the road. Takes less time than driving to a shop.
 
@r3dd0g, to clarify do you mean the metal wheel lip and not the rubber tire?

I always wondered if tire size mattered for toe in.
 
Top Bottom