CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
Funny you post that @skunked. I ended up going to the junkyard and pulling a neck off of a flat bed. It was 2" but I had a piece of 1-3/4" exhaust pipe leftover from the original install that I welded to the flat bed filler neck.
Biggest problem I ran into is the flat bed filler neck wouldn't work with the angle on my fuel door. So in the greatest piece of hackery on this truck, I pie-sliced the part of the fuel door that holds the filler neck. Then I bolted that together. Things spiraled downhill from there because the flange on the fuel door ended up TOO vertical; it needed a little angle. So I added a spacer at the top. I had to use a countersink screw so the cap could screw on all the way. I also had to sand a little off the fuel cap to allow the door to close completely. Remember I did say it spiraled downhill.
So at this point I want to test it out to see if I solved my fuel filling issue before I spend a bunch of time trying to make it better. It definitely has more drop in the filler hose than it did before. But we probably all know that if it does work I'll never change it. Especially since with the fuel door closed, you can't see the hackery.
Biggest problem I ran into is the flat bed filler neck wouldn't work with the angle on my fuel door. So in the greatest piece of hackery on this truck, I pie-sliced the part of the fuel door that holds the filler neck. Then I bolted that together. Things spiraled downhill from there because the flange on the fuel door ended up TOO vertical; it needed a little angle. So I added a spacer at the top. I had to use a countersink screw so the cap could screw on all the way. I also had to sand a little off the fuel cap to allow the door to close completely. Remember I did say it spiraled downhill.
So at this point I want to test it out to see if I solved my fuel filling issue before I spend a bunch of time trying to make it better. It definitely has more drop in the filler hose than it did before. But we probably all know that if it does work I'll never change it. Especially since with the fuel door closed, you can't see the hackery.
"It's not stupid if it works."
I've been wanting to install new front marker lights for quite some time, especially after installing new headlights. The marker lights are just so dull looking. Plus both of them had the bottom legs busted off.
I bought new housing from LMC for about $15ea and proceeded to pair them with some $12 ships-from-China LED lights. I cut a piece out of the housings to fit the LED lights and riveted the LED lights in.
There are 2 bulbs in the factory housings. Interesting they both have driving light and turn signal wires, but they don't both do them. Maybe I had a bad filament in the bulbs. I cut one socket off and put weather pack plugs on the wires with their counterparts on the LED lights.
In the future I think I will use the extra socket plugs to separate the rear amber tail lights to be turn signals without also flashing the red tail lights.
Here's how the new one marker lights look.
Running lights on.
Interestingly, when I switched to LED tail lights on the new bed the flasher worked fine. Now that I have LED on the front marker lights, it won't flash anymore. The only incandescent left are the little bitty side maker lights. Luckily I had already purchased a flasher module with the ground wire so it will work with LEDs.
I bought new housing from LMC for about $15ea and proceeded to pair them with some $12 ships-from-China LED lights. I cut a piece out of the housings to fit the LED lights and riveted the LED lights in.
There are 2 bulbs in the factory housings. Interesting they both have driving light and turn signal wires, but they don't both do them. Maybe I had a bad filament in the bulbs. I cut one socket off and put weather pack plugs on the wires with their counterparts on the LED lights.
In the future I think I will use the extra socket plugs to separate the rear amber tail lights to be turn signals without also flashing the red tail lights.
Here's how the new one marker lights look.
Running lights on.
Interestingly, when I switched to LED tail lights on the new bed the flasher worked fine. Now that I have LED on the front marker lights, it won't flash anymore. The only incandescent left are the little bitty side maker lights. Luckily I had already purchased a flasher module with the ground wire so it will work with LEDs.
Okay, I put the LED flasher in and the turn signals work, but hazards do not. Is there a hazard flasher somewhere on these trucks? My 73 has the hazard flasher at the top of the fuse block, but I don't see one there on this truck.
I found it on a thing the wiring diagram calls the "convenience center".
Power Flash!!!!
Martin
Martin
That doesn't look very convenient, but it does sound like a movie character.
Yeah, I think the "convenience center" is an odd name choice for that little panel. 
I think I found the problem with the throttle sticking. It looks like the linkage for the trans controller TPS got flipped. I don't remember messing with it but I must have at some point. These pictures are the correct alignment.
With the throttle cable disconnected the cable moves freely with no resistance at all. I dribbled some machine down the cable for good measure.
I also installed a spacer under the throttle body. I've been wanting to to help keep the ECU away from the engine heat. I'm also curious if the performance will be any different.
It's this spacer:
The last thing I did was get the air filter mounted. The tubes didn't line up quite like envisioned but I guess it will work. I'm not going for a ram air effect, just trying to draw in air from a cooler area of the engine bay.
I could plug the 2 pieces directly together, but I need something to allow for movement between the pieces.
With the throttle cable disconnected the cable moves freely with no resistance at all. I dribbled some machine down the cable for good measure.
I also installed a spacer under the throttle body. I've been wanting to to help keep the ECU away from the engine heat. I'm also curious if the performance will be any different.
It's this spacer:
The last thing I did was get the air filter mounted. The tubes didn't line up quite like envisioned but I guess it will work. I'm not going for a ram air effect, just trying to draw in air from a cooler area of the engine bay.
I could plug the 2 pieces directly together, but I need something to allow for movement between the pieces.
You can't just connect a straight piece of flex to the hat?
It occurred to me shortly after creating the post I can just cut down the flexible piece to a shorter length.
That's one nice spacer! Those puppies are even more than the HVH tapered spacers. Glad you found the throttle issue.
Can you just use a silicone hose like what they use for boost hoses on big trucks? http://www.siliconeintakes.com/silicone-hose/
I didn't really price shop. I heard lots of good stuff about Wilson and if I was going to try it, I wanted a good one.
I could. That's a good link to have for the future.
I cut 5" off the fully collapsed length and I'm much happier.
The air tube is zip tied to the bracket because I don't have enough large hose clamps.
For any curious I'm using this air intake after some testing on my C10. The efi on it has air inlet temp. I found with the 14" open element air cleaner inlet air was about 160°. With a setup similar to the above it was basically ambient air temp. I wanted to put this on the crew cab to help with engine temps pulling passes. This way at least hot inlet air isn't contributing.
I really like the looks of an open element 14" air cleaner but this one has grown on me. I really like how it makes it easier to access things on the top of the motor.
You could go full overland and get a snorkel for a land cruiser. Basically the same one the guys that clone the Dante's peak suburban use. But actually hook it up unlike the movie clones that don't.
I'm half screwing with you, but it's actually a viable option to eliminate hot intake air temps.
I'm half screwing with you, but it's actually a viable option to eliminate hot intake air temps.
I actually would like to do that for the reason you mentioned. I have to convince Nicole tho; she thinks it would be too poser looking because I'm not fording deep rivers. I've also debated about putting a hole in the fender and just putting a "hat" on it.
Ooooooh...military-esque fake oil bath air intake like the old deuce and a halfs had on the fender...
You need one of those VW baja bug oil cooler scoops, sticking out of the side of the fender.
