10% of everything made today fails.
CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
You’re being nice.
I was thinking I needed to check the yards for a factory original fan. The fan that failed was a new replacement and so is the one I just installed. Application is a 90s Thunderchicken. The second fan is a junkyard Volvo fan that's still going.
Oh wait, I just realized my problem, using Ford parts.
Oh wait, I just realized my problem, using Ford parts.
This is the way. @r3dd0g
They’re absolutely underrated for strain on a truck and parts.
May I suggest a red meat 6th gen Camaro and the brushless SPALs?
David
Yeah, I'm thinking after the Rubicon I need to look at doing something different with the fans.
Do y'all sit on 5 gallon buckets with clip on toilet rings, at those meetings?
we'll see a bunch of those obnoxious water/gas/koolaid jugs clipped all over the truck soon enough
And more light bars, lots of fk'n lightbars every direction!
Make sure you bring that to the Rubicon.
There are out houses 200 yards on the trail.
Sure, but Scott's truck will be right there!
yep and the poop truck is back in service! The unlocked the shitters at buck on Monday of last week.
Now, I want to poop off the back of Scott’s broverlander truck, and holler to all within earshot, “shitter’s full!”
David
David
- Joined
- Mar 3, 2000
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I think one of those plastic chairs with the center cut out and a seatbelt and TP holder. Then you need remote start somebody sits and the truck starts.
I started working on the fluid storage bin. It's kicked my ass a little because the way it's situated it won't just drop straight in.
Since my son is home on summer break I asked him to finish covering the roof with my sticker collection. It turned out even neater than I expected.
On the last trail run the truck picked up a cute little hair tie.
Since my son is home on summer break I asked him to finish covering the roof with my sticker collection. It turned out even neater than I expected.
On the last trail run the truck picked up a cute little hair tie.
My truck is going the same way, it is originally what I built it for. I never really wanted to crawl with it, it’s just pretty decent at it.
Did some general maintenance this weekend in prep for the Rubicon trip; oil change, grease all the zerks, new tcase output seals, and repacking wheel bearings. Glad I did the last one because the passenger side had some lumpy dry grease. It's probably been 8 to 10 years since the wheel bearings were touched, whenever I did the rotors but I can't find when I did those. I also wanted to refamiliarize myself with the Stage 8 spindle nut locks and Yukon lockouts. Plus make sure I have the tools on the truck to disassemble them.
Doesn't take many tools. Yes, I carry a torque wrench.
mostly for re-torquing ubolts.
I was also reminded it might be better to use a little lower quality grease for the Yukon lockout parts. The cohesive properties of the Amsoil grease make it nearly impossible to operate the lockouts. I remember having the same problem with the red & tacky Lucas grease I've used in the past. I was able to improve things by wiping off some of the excess.
I was distressed to notice how much the shit they spray on the roads in the winter is attacking my fairlead, it's pitting the aluminum.
I found a fairlead by Factor 55 that has what they call a "hard anodized" finish that should prevent this.
It also solved another problem I was having with the Bubba Ropes winchline that @swettysblazer hooked me up with. The rubber around the loop would get caught behind the fairlead opening. I had used a flap disc to shave some off but it was still a tight fit. The Factor 55 fairlead has an opening about 1/8" bigger and now it's perfect.
Before:
After the flap disc:
I mostly removed the raised logo and the sharp edges of the molded rubber. Otherwise I really like this type of winchline loop for both the bow shackles and soft shackles. You can also see in the last picture I sanded on the aluminum to at least smooth out the pitting until I received the new fairlead.
Doesn't take many tools. Yes, I carry a torque wrench.
mostly for re-torquing ubolts.I was also reminded it might be better to use a little lower quality grease for the Yukon lockout parts. The cohesive properties of the Amsoil grease make it nearly impossible to operate the lockouts. I remember having the same problem with the red & tacky Lucas grease I've used in the past. I was able to improve things by wiping off some of the excess.
I was distressed to notice how much the shit they spray on the roads in the winter is attacking my fairlead, it's pitting the aluminum.
I found a fairlead by Factor 55 that has what they call a "hard anodized" finish that should prevent this.
It also solved another problem I was having with the Bubba Ropes winchline that @swettysblazer hooked me up with. The rubber around the loop would get caught behind the fairlead opening. I had used a flap disc to shave some off but it was still a tight fit. The Factor 55 fairlead has an opening about 1/8" bigger and now it's perfect.
Before:
After the flap disc:
I mostly removed the raised logo and the sharp edges of the molded rubber. Otherwise I really like this type of winchline loop for both the bow shackles and soft shackles. You can also see in the last picture I sanded on the aluminum to at least smooth out the pitting until I received the new fairlead.
Finished the fluid box which also became the home for the rear battery switch. I opted for a somewhat weather tight design. I do have future plans to put a flip-up cover over the battery switch. I ended up really boxing myself in when it came to getting the box riveted together. I was having to drill the holes blind from the inside, so there are a few errant holes and rivets.
The "door" drops in. It pushes up under the top and then drops down a little behind the bottom panel. A single screw holds it in place. I lined the inside with pieces of oil absorbent mat. I mostly wanted something to pad the bottles a little. There are 8 quart bottles, 2 pint bottles, and a can of brake cleaner.
I also finished the cargo rack.
The slides are supposed to be rated for about 400 pounds at full extension. On the way home I was telling my son we should have had him sitting on the rack for the pictures. The reason I added the slides was to have access to the spare tire without having to unload and remove the rack. It's all made with aluminum except the slides which are actually quite heavy.
I can walk under the rack when it's extended but anyone pushing 6' or taller will have to duck.
The "door" drops in. It pushes up under the top and then drops down a little behind the bottom panel. A single screw holds it in place. I lined the inside with pieces of oil absorbent mat. I mostly wanted something to pad the bottles a little. There are 8 quart bottles, 2 pint bottles, and a can of brake cleaner.
I also finished the cargo rack.
The slides are supposed to be rated for about 400 pounds at full extension. On the way home I was telling my son we should have had him sitting on the rack for the pictures. The reason I added the slides was to have access to the spare tire without having to unload and remove the rack. It's all made with aluminum except the slides which are actually quite heavy.
I can walk under the rack when it's extended but anyone pushing 6' or taller will have to duck.
