Swepco 715 is gtg. I stopped carrying fluids in the rig years ago though. I had never used it on the trail, nor had anyone that ever needed just a quart.
CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
I'm "that" guy that puts in whatever I have lol. Semi trucks run it all (ATF, power steering fluid, and even 15W40 in some) so I figure any oil is better than no oil.
I also run a Napa reman gear on my blazer though.@mrk5 I like to be prepared also. My super duty camping/hunting rig has a toolbox with every fluid I could need that never get touched but they are there if I need them. I also have 2 stroke oil and glass cleaner and tire chains and more tools than most people have at home. I like to be prepared for anything. Plus I have 4 boys that thrash the shit out of their atvs camping so I am always fixing something.
I mean, you have seen the guys I wheel with......
You will need to add a 3rd battery if I ever come out and wheel with you again.I mean, you have seen the guys I wheel with......
I still have a battery that can be leant out. 
I've had to do that for more than one person also. 
I've had to do that for more than one person also.
It looks like my fan issue was not solved with the fw update. It wasn't working on my drive home a week ago. Warmed the truck up today in the garage and it's working.
I'm thinking maybe it's a heat issue with either the fan motor or the control relays. One of them gets heat soaked and stops working.
Each fan uses a Volvo 2-speed relay since both fans are 2-speed.
I do have spare relays, so I'm thinking I should throw one of the spares on to see what happens.
Any thoughts on what could cause an intermittent issue?
I'm thinking maybe it's a heat issue with either the fan motor or the control relays. One of them gets heat soaked and stops working.
Each fan uses a Volvo 2-speed relay since both fans are 2-speed.
I do have spare relays, so I'm thinking I should throw one of the spares on to see what happens.
Any thoughts on what could cause an intermittent issue?
Make a harness that you can plug into a relay plug and hook the fan directly to the battery. It will tell you if is the relay or the fan.
It would be easy to set up a wire direct from the battery to the fan connector. Need to have it setup so I can test it as soon as it happens.
I did direct battery test the fan previously, but not when everything was all heated up to operating temp.
I managed to kill my 12 year old batteries by leaving the radio on while it was parked for several weeks. Batteries have gotten expensive. We lost our local Deka battery dealer which I like to use because they're made in the US. I started searching around and found ACDelco AGM batteries. They are under $200 which was appealing. I never did figure out where they're made.
I was looking at a like powered battery as compared to what I have been running, about 750 CCA. Then I noticed for another $20, and still under $200, I could get a battery with 1,080 CCA. What can be bad about more power. In my infinite wisdom, I didn't consider a possible size difference. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ADO-49AGM
Old vs new:
Figured this was a good motivator to clean up my battery wiring. I've been just adding stuff on over the years and it's a bit of a rat's nest.
First thing I had to do was build a battery box I could mount to the factory battery tray. I bent one out of .050 aluminum. My small 1/2" dimple die made a good countersink for the bolts.
Previously I had all of my connections bunched up on the battery terminal and the switch. Now I have it all on the bus bars. The only exceptions are the EFI on the battery terminal and the winch is on the switch. Aftermarket EFI is very adamant about connecting straight to the battery. The same is true about the winch, but I didn't want it stacked on with the EFI, so I put it on the switch so it's relatively close to the battery.
This is all the stuff I pulled out and didn't need again.
I did have a battery on each side of the core support and I will be running 2 batteries again but the second battery is going to the bed. I've been running the batteries directly connected in parallel thru the battery selector switch, but I'm going to add an automatic charging relay (ACR) for the new set up. So I'm not done with the battery system, but done enough to run with.
I've been using a hammer crimper in a 20T press, but I don't have a press at home. So I picked up a 12T crimper on eBay for less than $40. https://www.ebay.com/itm/295729829457 So far it's working really well.
It doesn't leave the little "tags" I saw others complain about with the cheaper crimpers. The dies on this one must line up better. Only issue I had is the dial is backwards from the way I think it should be. First time I tried it, I thought it was bad out of the box because it wouldn't crimp. You have to turn the dial in the "OFF" position to crimp, and "ON" to release.
Not pictured but I do finish these off with adhesive lined shrink tube.
I was looking at a like powered battery as compared to what I have been running, about 750 CCA. Then I noticed for another $20, and still under $200, I could get a battery with 1,080 CCA. What can be bad about more power. In my infinite wisdom, I didn't consider a possible size difference. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ADO-49AGM
Old vs new:
Figured this was a good motivator to clean up my battery wiring. I've been just adding stuff on over the years and it's a bit of a rat's nest.
First thing I had to do was build a battery box I could mount to the factory battery tray. I bent one out of .050 aluminum. My small 1/2" dimple die made a good countersink for the bolts.
Previously I had all of my connections bunched up on the battery terminal and the switch. Now I have it all on the bus bars. The only exceptions are the EFI on the battery terminal and the winch is on the switch. Aftermarket EFI is very adamant about connecting straight to the battery. The same is true about the winch, but I didn't want it stacked on with the EFI, so I put it on the switch so it's relatively close to the battery.
This is all the stuff I pulled out and didn't need again.
I did have a battery on each side of the core support and I will be running 2 batteries again but the second battery is going to the bed. I've been running the batteries directly connected in parallel thru the battery selector switch, but I'm going to add an automatic charging relay (ACR) for the new set up. So I'm not done with the battery system, but done enough to run with.
I've been using a hammer crimper in a 20T press, but I don't have a press at home. So I picked up a 12T crimper on eBay for less than $40. https://www.ebay.com/itm/295729829457 So far it's working really well.
It doesn't leave the little "tags" I saw others complain about with the cheaper crimpers. The dies on this one must line up better. Only issue I had is the dial is backwards from the way I think it should be. First time I tried it, I thought it was bad out of the box because it wouldn't crimp. You have to turn the dial in the "OFF" position to crimp, and "ON" to release.
Not pictured but I do finish these off with adhesive lined shrink tube.
The dial on mine was the same way. A normal valve would be open when on, so I ran with that for the reason. It should read open - closed.
I bet that is the battery the newer dodge pickups run. Last time I asked my local napa told me their batteries were made by Deka now days. I run Caterpillar batteries mainly for everything at work and home just cuz they are easy for me to get and seem pretty reliable.
That would make sense. It's like they said "it's one of those "O" words, let's go with ON".
Deka is under the umbrella of East Penn Manufacturing and I do think they make batteries for a few other brands. I was trying to figure out if maybe they made the AC Delco batteries too, but I really couldn't find anything about where they're made.
I'm working on making more storage space so I can haul extra fuel on the Rubicon. One of the biggest space hogs is the floor jack. I picked up a surplus H1 jack and made some mods.
Found an 1/2" impact adapter for less than $10 to run it with an impact, but it's removeable so I can still use the original handle. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09YNDFK2J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I found a really nice floor jack cup for less than $20. I'm very impress with how beefy it is. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B7RV2WRG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Welded that to some DOM tubes that sleeve together for a couple of different heights.
Found an 1/2" impact adapter for less than $10 to run it with an impact, but it's removeable so I can still use the original handle. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09YNDFK2J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I found a really nice floor jack cup for less than $20. I'm very impress with how beefy it is. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B7RV2WRG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Welded that to some DOM tubes that sleeve together for a couple of different heights.
That AC Delco battery is identical to the Walmart one I just put in my cop car. Same handles, same little red cover for +, same little yellow tag on the cover. $179 for the Walmart one with 4 year warranty, its an AGM. Probably about the same as the AC Delco.
Maybe a piece of louvered metal for the bottom with louver opening facing rearward?
The original handle is money. It's like a redneck super-swivel. This way you can get the jack inside all sorts of places, I.E. between @rderosier 's leaf spring pack and his frame, etc...
I grease the worm screw too. It'll get hot if your using the jack alot.
I grease the worm screw too. It'll get hot if your using the jack alot.
That jack was absolutely clutch for the moab lead spring repair, its makes an appearance in this pic tho it's kinda dark.
Price is pretty much the same. I thought about seeing what Walmart sold but then I found the AC Delco. Probably made by the same manufacturer.
Yeah I figured I'd keep the OG handle handy too.
I did have to go ahead and install a new fan. Annoyingly it's kinda noisy. Thought maybe it was something to do with the new blades and I managed to mess up the hub so I had to put the old blades on. The noise is better, but I think it's just something about the motor. I hope it doesn't indicate early failure.
