The best bet would be to just swap in a 4wd SM465. You already have the more desirable hydraulic clutch setup. You could also run a divorced transfer case and use what you have.
Martin
Martin
CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
I was actually thinking about the divorsed tcase for a cheap doubler option; since I have the wheel base to accommodate such a setup.
The later SM465's are better than the early ones. I am not sure what year, but GM started installing the pipe on the counter shaft to keep them from popping out of second gear, from the factory.
Martin
Martin
So I haven't commented yet on here Scott.
So from reading above I would section the frame, its actually not that hard you just have to be careful, take your time and measure several times.
I have heard some people say it creates a weak point in the frame. I wheeled Horton as a cab truck for like 3 years before I did the cage. Hortons frame is shortened as he started as a long bed
So section the frame.
I think your most important thing on a truck like this is keeping the belly as flat as possible. On a long truck clearance is king.
I like the idea of a burb or blazer tank because it frees up alot of space to do rock sliders
Its gonna be a cool truck for sure
So from reading above I would section the frame, its actually not that hard you just have to be careful, take your time and measure several times.
I have heard some people say it creates a weak point in the frame. I wheeled Horton as a cab truck for like 3 years before I did the cage. Hortons frame is shortened as he started as a long bed
So section the frame.
I think your most important thing on a truck like this is keeping the belly as flat as possible. On a long truck clearance is king.
I like the idea of a burb or blazer tank because it frees up alot of space to do rock sliders
Its gonna be a cool truck for sure
I actually had really good luck climbing things with my 3+3 because of the length.
Martin
Martin
I know, I saw you posting in so many other Driveway Builds I was afraid you didn't like me anymore....So I haven't commented yet on here Scott.
So from reading above I would section the frame, its actually not that hard you just have to be careful, take your time and measure several times.
I have heard some people say it creates a weak point in the frame. I wheeled Horton as a cab truck for like 3 years before I did the cage. Hortons frame is shortened as he started as a long bed
So section the frame.
I think your most important thing on a truck like this is keeping the belly as flat as possible. On a long truck clearance is king.
I like the idea of a burb or blazer tank because it frees up alot of space to do rock sliders
Its gonna be a cool truck for sure
At this point I'm planning to do pretty much everything you mentioned, including the sectioning of the frame. If for no other reason, than I will be prouder of having done it that way. I will just have to con a person or two into coming by to lend moral support.
I didn't realize Horton was a pickup originally; I thought it had always been a K5.
I'm hoping between the taller 1-ton frame, possibly a 1" body lift, and clocking the transfer case; I can run a flat belly. At least as close to it as possible. I'm glad it already has the 2-piece rear driveshaft. If I get really crazy and run a divorced dual transfer case, I'll set up the front driveshaft as 2 piece as well.
Unless I find a deal on a fuel cell, I'll run the K5/burb tank. I wish the diesel tank in the General had the little baffle tray so I could just use it. Luckily even new K5 tanks are relatively cheap.
Longer wheelbases are king in Moab due to the climbing advantages. I'm only worried about the trees here on the Colorado trails. Figure I'll just have to get good at the multi-point turns.
I know, I saw you posting in so many other Driveway Builds I was afraid you didn't like me anymore....
I didn't realize Horton was a pickup originally; I thought it had always been a K5.
I just think everyone gets tired of me saying stuff
I actually love this build. In all reality it makes alot more sense for me to do something like this with my crew cab except I would flat bed it. But we shall see I need to get the thing running first.
I think you would be happier with the burb/ blazer tank than a fuel cell. I actually think you should just build a custom tank, its not that hard to do and kind of fun. I bet you could get 45 gallon capacity with the same clearance as the 31 gallon blazer tank. Well maybe not with the shortbed.
I helped a guy build a crew cab Ford and I bugged the crap outta him to get everything flat belly. He finally gave in and it blew people away what he could clear with his 140" some wheelbase. He was dead flat, we built a plate that bolted to both sides of the frame rails all the way back to the end of the t case. If he couldn't clear it he could slide on it.
Turning you might look into machining your axle shafts to get more clearance out of em. I know you can take some material out of them to get more turning capability but not sure where you would run into diminishing returns on that.
Just go get a quadra steer rear axle
problem solved
Interesting thought. We do a lot of aluminum fabricating here at the shop. We MIG everything we do, but I've been thinking about getting a TIG. I think that would be much better for welding together a tank. If I were to do that I would still rather use a drop in sending unit/pump assembly that the truck would use normally. How hard is it to make the proper mounting hole for that I wonder?
That's what I like about the General. Everything "precious" us covered by a skid plate. Only concern is the driveshaft and after the SYE I don't seem to have much trouble with that. I figure the driveshaft must be at just the right angle and length for the tire size. I plan to move the carrier bearing on the crew cab so the angle will be the same as the General's.
I agree with your thinking. If you can't clear it, drag it. I should end up with a 150" wheelbase. Should be interesting so see how is on the trail.
I could pull the 60 out of my buddy's truck that is stored in our yard...Turning you might look into machining your axle shafts to get more clearance out of em. I know you can take some material out of them to get more turning capability but not sure where you would run into diminishing returns on that.
Just go get a quadra steer rear axle
I already have too much throw in my assist ram so I could do something with more turning angle.
Scott
I don't know what the dual tank pump situation is for TBI, I'm assuming that the truck has dual tanks, but you just might be able to use the sending unit setup out of one of the tanks with your blazer tank.
We found that the OE UA truck tank and the suburban tank we used in the build up had the smae basic sending unit. We swapped tanks but kept the sending unit and pump from the truck.
You will learn to like 40+ gallons of gas.
I don't know what the dual tank pump situation is for TBI, I'm assuming that the truck has dual tanks, but you just might be able to use the sending unit setup out of one of the tanks with your blazer tank.
We found that the OE UA truck tank and the suburban tank we used in the build up had the smae basic sending unit. We swapped tanks but kept the sending unit and pump from the truck.
You will learn to like 40+ gallons of gas.
I don't know about burb tanks but the pickup tanks and pickups are the same as the blazers.
I have had em both out and looked at em, same thing
I have had em both out and looked at em, same thing
I think I would have to take out a loan to fill up 40+ gallons. 
CUCV2
5/4 ton fun
Subscribed. I like where you are going with this. I am doing something similar but with a newer truck. Hoping for some inspiration and ideas.
Thank you. I had planned to use a newer truck as well but this one was cheap and working with something I'm familiar with has its advantages.
Thinking about ditching the hydroboost brakes.
I don't really like the idea of having brakes and steering dependent on one system. I have had the power steering pump fail on the trail a few years ago and it was a pain to get the truck somewhere we could work on it. Hadn't worried about it much having a tow rig the last 3 or 4 years, but we got rid of the Super Duty so I'm back to wheeling a road warrior.
The pump I have now moans a little when we are in 4wd and turning the wheel on the trail and I'm worried it's getting tired. At the very least I need to think about replacing it.
I've seen dual diaphragm brake boosters and I'm thinking about going that route. Curious if anyone has some experience with them.
Other thought is to set up 2 power steering pumps, one for hydroboost and the other for steering. I did this on my buddy's truck and it seems to be working now that we have the pressure line from the hydroboost plumbed in to a good reservoir.
I don't really like the idea of having brakes and steering dependent on one system. I have had the power steering pump fail on the trail a few years ago and it was a pain to get the truck somewhere we could work on it. Hadn't worried about it much having a tow rig the last 3 or 4 years, but we got rid of the Super Duty so I'm back to wheeling a road warrior.
The pump I have now moans a little when we are in 4wd and turning the wheel on the trail and I'm worried it's getting tired. At the very least I need to think about replacing it.
I've seen dual diaphragm brake boosters and I'm thinking about going that route. Curious if anyone has some experience with them.
Other thought is to set up 2 power steering pumps, one for hydroboost and the other for steering. I did this on my buddy's truck and it seems to be working now that we have the pressure line from the hydroboost plumbed in to a good reservoir.
I have had the power steering pump fail before and you can still stop with hydroboost.
Its not really that bad. Yes its harder to brake for sure but it seemed to break just fine.
I would keep the hydroboost and get a good power steering pump none of the this A1 cardone rebuild crap. But a good new one they aren't that much more expensive.
Its not really that bad. Yes its harder to brake for sure but it seemed to break just fine.
I would keep the hydroboost and get a good power steering pump none of the this A1 cardone rebuild crap. But a good new one they aren't that much more expensive.
I have a PSC pump that came with the assist set-up. I've seen several threads trashing their p-pumps. I've heard their TC pumps are better but I don't know much about them.
I have invested in the Vanco hi-flow for my hydroboost a couple years ago. I'm wondering if a PSC steering box helps.
Any pump recommendations?
I have invested in the Vanco hi-flow for my hydroboost a couple years ago. I'm wondering if a PSC steering box helps.
Any pump recommendations?
I, personally, do not like hydroboost partly for the reason you explained.
But my big complaint is that the pump has to supply power assist to the brakes AND steering, which means if you're using the steering and brakes at the same time, you have less power for each.
I love hydroboost brakes, but that's just me.
Martin
Martin
i thought hydroboost was supposed to be the cats pajamas and get better braking?
This is what I basically envision for the look of the truck:
I like it! It's basic, cheap, clean, wheel-able, towable, lots of space for the fam/friends, comfortable and best of all... It's a GM!
I got my 60 gal fueltank/Cell/toolbox combo still for sale. Would be perfect for your needs me thinks...
When I swapped from a stock steering box to a PSC box, I could tell a slight difference with better turning with the 37"s.
As far as cutting the frame bit... It's up to you man. I've heard horror stories with pics... Vids on YouTube as well... My buddy in NY "Jason" did this with his snow plow... After he got it welded, he used a diamond shaped steel plate to reenforce the frame. He said it works great!
