'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond

[imiceman44]

So close but didn't quite succeed.

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I ended the day with the engine back on the stand. I'm having some consternation getting the right balance between lift height and the leveler clearing the cowl area. The crane just barely has enough lift.

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I might have to bust out the forklift but it's more difficult to use solo. I did realize later after I went home for dinner that I was being a little dumb. The furthest point on the boom is 1/2 ton.

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I got it in my head 1/2 ton was 500lbs so I couldn't use that spot. It was quite the epiphany when I realized it's 1,000lbs! So that should help me succeed today.

You can also shorten the chain on the hoist. That easy and gives big results quick

 

[Wes Harden]

I find stepping away from a frustrating task for a few minutes, normally helps it go better when I come back.

 

[6872xtc]

What's wrong with using that boom on the truck in the next bay?? Does it have a remote control?
Yes, smaller tires would have worked well too, ehh? But bigger hydraulics are always fun!

 

[70jimmy]

Could use spacers on the front to move the leveler further toward the front of the vehicle and us intake bolts or head or manifold bolts for the jack point for the rear.

 

[ZooMad75]

Simple task is take the front wheels all the way off with the axle on stands at the lowest setting. But a combination of some of the suggestions might be the ticket.

 

[centexk5]

Just plasma cut the parts out that are blocking you. Way easier than dealing with heavy ass tires.

 

[Babaganoosh]

Just plasma cut the parts out that are blocking you. Way easier than dealing with heavy ass tires.

At that point just stab the tires and deflate them.

 

[centexk5]

At that point just stab the tires and deflate them.

That’s what road hazard is for.

 

[mrk5]

What's wrong with using that boom on the truck in the next bay?? Does it have a remote control?
Yes, smaller tires would have worked well too, ehh? But bigger hydraulics are always fun!

Not enough room for the outriggers. And I really would have been working blind! Probably the biggest thing that has slowed me down is doing this solo. I would have noticed issues sooner if I'd been able to push on the engine and look around the back to see what was going on.

I was going to use jack stands, but they would be in the way of the engine crane. Luckily I have some OLD wheels and tires.



Turned out to be 2 issues that really held me up. The first was I finally realized my giant lift brackets on the back of the heads were hitting the firewall so the engine couldn't slide in.

The last obstacle was the competition engine mounts. I tried installing them just like the factory style, one half on the engine and the other in the truck. Problem was I couldn't get the engine up over the mounts and properly aligned to the trans so it could slide in. I could get one side over so I ended spending more time trying to make it work than I should have.

Ultimately I unbolted the truck half and bolted it to the engine side. Then I was successful!

 

[Truckman4life]

I changed out the chain on my cherry picker to a shorter one with a swivel hook on the Duramax that a swapped last. Couldn't get it high enough either and it weighed a lot.

 

[sweetk30]

...

old rollback winch cable hook setup on both mine . full swivel and full clamb shell closed positive latch with any weight on it .

 

[mrk5]

I changed out the chain on my cherry picker to a shorter one with a swivel hook on the Duramax that a swapped last. Couldn't get it high enough either and it weighed a lot.

I thought about shortening the chain but it would have caused other issues. I barely had enough room to operate the leveler due to the angle of the boom. I was afraid the shorter chain would make that more of an issue.

...

old rollback winch cable hook setup on both mine . full swivel and full clamb shell closed positive latch with any weight on it .


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That's a cool idea.

 

[mrk5]

Before I dropped the engine in, I moved the front axle forward an inch.



I have been having trouble with the rear spring eye hitting the frame. I didn't have that problem when I first set up the front suspension for the 2wd conversion.

Lately I had noticed some evidence the axle wasn't in its original location; the shocks were angled and the bumpstops were contacting at the front of the pads. I think when I put new front springs in 7 years ago I used the wrong hole in the front brackets.

After moving the axle forward, I have a lot of frame clearance.

 

[Babaganoosh]

Before I dropped the engine in, I moved the front axle forward an inch.

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I have been having trouble with the rear spring eye hitting the frame. I didn't have that problem when I first set up the front suspension for the 2wd conversion.

Lately I had noticed some evidence the axle wasn't in its original location; the shocks were angled and the bumpstops were contacting at the front of the pads. I think when I put new front springs in 7 years ago I used the wrong hole in the front brackets.

After moving the axle forward, I have a lot of frame clearance.

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This reminds me of my panhard bar on my truck, I put the bolt in backwards and it’s been chewing away the aluminum for years, it self clearance enough and I don’t fix it.

 

[mrk5]

I was a little worried about my coils clearing the booster, but that wasn't a problem. However my fancy covers are a bit anticlimactic with the booster in the way.






I also had to clip the back corner to clear part of the firewall.



Guess that's the downside to doing this on the stand.

 

[mrk5]

Looks like I'm going to be able to use my existing fuel lines. It's a little hard to see it but the picture below is the feed line traveling up over the trans and around into the fuel rail. I don't have pictures of the return line because I didn't finish mounting the fuel pressure regulator.

 

[mrk5]

Making slow progress. Been hella busy at work.

Return fuel line is routed. I had a short piece of stainless braided drop that worked between the rail and regulator with a 45° end at the rail. Then the return line for the Sniper reaches the regulator.





Working on mounting up accessories. Got a little worried when I put the steering pump bracket on. The clearance looked a little slim.



Luckily the pump clears the frame by a finger.



I still need to put the pulley on, but I think it'll be okay.



And it looks like the throttle cable in the truck will work over the top of the intake.

 

[folkenheath]

Nice work! That's normal for the steering pump clearance, mine is very close too even on the older brackets.

If it helps you route the vacuum reference line, you can remove the 4 bolts on the regulator and flip the top canister 180. Just make sure the spring and diaphragm are in position when you bolt it back on.

 

[mrk5]

I guess I've never been able to see an engine in the frame without the front clip so I hadn't noticed before how close it is.

 

[skunked]

I guess I've never been able to see an engine in the frame without the front clip so I hadn't noticed before how close it is.

I think it might be related to the 2wd frame. Looking at my L29 in the K10 frame it’s not as close. Still plenty of clearance so I’m sure you’re fine but I thought it was worth a mention.