Cletus had a lifter squeak….
CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
It probably makes the most sense. Next step is to tear the top off the engine and inspect.Cletus had a lifter squeak….
Have you run it without the belt to check for the squeak?
Also, could you temporarily swap valve covers?
Also, could you temporarily swap valve covers?
I said it, but I’m really crossing my fingers it’s not for you …
Sounds like a belt to me, not a engine squeak. It is to fast for a lifter or rocker arm IMO.
But pull the belt off and run it see if it still makes the noise.
But pull the belt off and run it see if it still makes the noise.
Man it would nice if it was just a belt related issue. Don't know if I could be that lucky.
Don't just tear it apart, find the source of the squeak while you can still hear it. Eliminating the belt temporarily is a good first check.
Were any of the other rocker studs loose?
You sure it isn't an exhaust leak?
How is the oiling to the top end?
Were any of the other rocker studs loose?
You sure it isn't an exhaust leak?
How is the oiling to the top end?
I agree, don’t pull it apart until you find each issue otherwise you may not fix the problem.
Checking the belt is an easy test to try.
Only the rocker stud we observed moving was loose. However when I removed the others about half of them needed less than 40 ft-lbs to break loose. The others needed almost 50. They should have been torqued to 45 ft-lbs.
I was paying close attention to the tips of the valves to make sure the rollers weren't riding on the retainers or keepers. Doing so I observed a good bit of oil was accumulated where the rocker roller is riding so I took that as a good sign they're getting oiled good. In general the rollers were oil coated.
I don't think it was an exhaust leak. I need one of them smoke machines.
I don't remember if I've noted previously that the noise you hear in the video below will sometimes continue after I stop rotating the engine.
Matter of fact I remember hearing that popping noise like the video after the first time I started the engine and shut it off. I chalked it up to heat dissipation. But it also hasn't done that every time of shut the engine off.
Tomorrow I was thinking about backing the rocker adjusters off 1/4 turn to see if that makes any difference.
Is the engine slowly turning over from compression still, or is that sound just compression leaking out somewhere?
Previosuly I thought it was loose rocker studs moving on you, but since that problem is solved does that noise still exist?
Also, it's quite normal for the removal torque to be less than the installation torque. Intuition says static friction would be higher than kinetic friction...however, think of the threads like a ramp or a hill, it's easier to move it downhill than up hill.
Previosuly I thought it was loose rocker studs moving on you, but since that problem is solved does that noise still exist?
Also, it's quite normal for the removal torque to be less than the installation torque. Intuition says static friction would be higher than kinetic friction...however, think of the threads like a ramp or a hill, it's easier to move it downhill than up hill.
I’ve got a smoke machine you can use, let me know if you wanna borrow it.
Yeah I had kinda decided the removal torque wasn't really telling me much useful.
I am getting the same noise after re-torquing all of the studs. The engine isn't rolling because I'm still holding the ratchet when it happens.
When we filmed the popping noise video above, the engine was still relatively warm from being run at full temperature for a few minutes until the noise started the first time. When I started on retightened the rocker studs 2 days later, the noise was gone. I will see if it's the same story tomorrow but it seems to require some heat in the engine to happen.
As I mentioned I heard that popping noise a few times after shutting of the engine from the beginning, although not every time. The squeaking noise while the engine is running came later. I ran the engine a few times including testing static timing up to 5000 rpm without it squeaking. Probably the biggest change when the squeaking started was running the engine up to operating temperature opening the thermostat. Even then it didn't start right away but after I ran the engine rpm up a couple times while we were messing with setting the idle speed/IAC %.
I am getting the same noise after re-torquing all of the studs. The engine isn't rolling because I'm still holding the ratchet when it happens.
When we filmed the popping noise video above, the engine was still relatively warm from being run at full temperature for a few minutes until the noise started the first time. When I started on retightened the rocker studs 2 days later, the noise was gone. I will see if it's the same story tomorrow but it seems to require some heat in the engine to happen.
As I mentioned I heard that popping noise a few times after shutting of the engine from the beginning, although not every time. The squeaking noise while the engine is running came later. I ran the engine a few times including testing static timing up to 5000 rpm without it squeaking. Probably the biggest change when the squeaking started was running the engine up to operating temperature opening the thermostat. Even then it didn't start right away but after I ran the engine rpm up a couple times while we were messing with setting the idle speed/IAC %.
Maybe I'm wrong, or late to the party here, but the squeak sounds way too loud to be coming from inside to me. I'd say belt, or accessory pulley. Easy way to test that is squirt a little wd40 or equivelant on each pulley, and/or the belt. Not a solution, but easy way to see if there is a change.
That would probably work if it was the belt itself, but not one of the pulleys or bearings. I say just remove it.
I also think he should try the stethescope or a broom handle again. You can narrow the noise down pretty easy to where it is coming from.
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I will give the belt a shot, but I think you guys just don't like the green color! 
I did notice when I filmed it running last time the mic on my phone picks up the squeak noise really well. I heard it person and I was surprised how loud it sounded on the playback.
I did notice when I filmed it running last time the mic on my phone picks up the squeak noise really well. I heard it person and I was surprised how loud it sounded on the playback.
Today's update. I started out by pulling the belt off and running the engine. There was no squeak. I didn't run it very long because I haven't setup the digital dash with the Terminator so I don't know how hot it's getting.
Then I thought the best test would be to run with the belt until it squeaks, then pull the belt off to see if the noise continues. I ended up running the engine for the longest yet. It got up to temperature for the fan to come on.
It probably squeaked 3 times. It was fainter than previously and if I revved the engine it would go away. If I was sitting in the cab, I don't think I would have heard it. The squeak always went away, and didn't keep up like before.
I didn't pull the belt off again because by that time the engine was so warm I didn't want to run it without the coolant circulating. I should have another belt I could test to see if anything different happens.
After I shut it off, I rotated the engine by ratchet. I could get that popping noise in one spot in the rotation and it was only on the passenger side. It did not keep popping when I stopped rotating the engine this time either. It still seems to be coming from the valve cover area.
It's kinda bitter sweet. The problem seems to be going away, but I don't really know why. Is it the belt or a pulley? Is it a lifter(s)?
Then I thought the best test would be to run with the belt until it squeaks, then pull the belt off to see if the noise continues. I ended up running the engine for the longest yet. It got up to temperature for the fan to come on.
It probably squeaked 3 times. It was fainter than previously and if I revved the engine it would go away. If I was sitting in the cab, I don't think I would have heard it. The squeak always went away, and didn't keep up like before.
I didn't pull the belt off again because by that time the engine was so warm I didn't want to run it without the coolant circulating. I should have another belt I could test to see if anything different happens.
After I shut it off, I rotated the engine by ratchet. I could get that popping noise in one spot in the rotation and it was only on the passenger side. It did not keep popping when I stopped rotating the engine this time either. It still seems to be coming from the valve cover area.
It's kinda bitter sweet. The problem seems to be going away, but I don't really know why. Is it the belt or a pulley? Is it a lifter(s)?
When in doubt throttle out?
Except I don’t think it will help much in this case. I wish I could hear it in person.
Except I don’t think it will help much in this case. I wish I could hear it in person.
Sometimes I believe it's just that particular belt that squeaks. Not a particular brand.
I worked on one that must have gotten oil or grease on it. Brake clean would help it temporarily. Ended up replacing the belt and cleaning the pullies more when it was off.
I worked on one that must have gotten oil or grease on it. Brake clean would help it temporarily. Ended up replacing the belt and cleaning the pullies more when it was off.
I have always wanted to try the green belts, I thought they grab better?
They seem to in my experience. I put them on a good portion of the trucks at work. However, they definitely are more audible at times. If they slip, it's a loud bark when compared to other replacement belts.
