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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond

Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
Found this info about torque specs & thread pitch for JIC or -AN fittings. Thought it was interesting.

JIC-AN-fitting-info.jpg


The 2 tables come form different sources. The top one is from Earl's, but the bottom one I'm not sure about. I kept the bottom one mostly for the thread-pitch info.
 
When I was messing with the steering gear box, I discovered the rag joint was torn. So I went ahead and installed an XJ shaft I had from a buddy's rig. Since it had been in another square body, it was a pretty easy install.

Remove the old shaft. The top bolt is a carriage bolt, so you just have to remove the nut.

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Exposed end of the steering column.

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The XJ shaft pinches on instead of bolting through.

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I did have to file down the steering column shaft a little to allow the bolt to thread thru. I messed up the original bolt trying to force thread it thru. The replacement is a 10mm x1.5 metric bolt. 30mm or 35mm long.

The steering box end:

2014-07-13170223.jpg


The thing I noticed, and maybe this is something everyone deals with, there is slop between the 2 halves of the shaft. I decided to drill and tap for (2) 1/4-24 fine thread set screws. I thought this would work well to remove the play and still allow the shaft to collapse.

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I loctited the set screws so they won't back out.

Do you all think this will work over the long run?
 
LOL! I tried to sand down a piece of aluminum to fit in there but I gave up on that. At least now I know why my buddy's truck had steering slop.
 
Yep, I did the set screw thing only cause I over heated the center and melted the spacers a little. Bright side... it's super easy to get off.
 
So I installed bumpstops to keep the ram from getting damaged again. These are a set of Timbrens I've had laying around for at least a year now.

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This is sitting at ride height. I have 2.5" of clearance from ram to crossmember. The Timbrens will compress to a height of 2-5/16". So I have the stops touching at ride height. I'm kinda thinking this won't work well because the rubber stops don't have any kind of rebound control which will probably equal a bouncy ride.

As I think about it more I think I really need to pull the crossmember and modify it for more clearance.
 
Scott find some round tube that is larger than the diameter of the timbrens how much wider depends on which one and well it on the landing pad. They slip side to side some. It can prevent that from happening
 
I did read about others doing something like that but I wasn't sure how necessary it was.

IIRC these compress to 3.5" diameter.
 
Scott find some round tube that is larger than the diameter of the timbrens how much wider depends on which one and well it on the landing pad. They slip side to side some. It can prevent that from happening


This!! I lost a timbren in the dunes somewhere this weekend. They didn't hit square and flew off.
 
Ah, well that's some good first hand experience. I'll definitely have to get something done then.
 
Hey mrk5,
sorry to take it back to the beginning...what length front springs are you running? Sorry I'm not seeing where you mention it! I'm about to do a 2wd and copying about everything you've done!!

Thanks!
Matt
 
They are lift springs designed by ORD. 48" IIRC. Same as factory.
 
Installed the new ram this weekend. Bench bled it first since I've had a lot of trouble in the past bleeding this set up with the hydroboost. Bleeding the ram not plumbed in has worked the best.
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Hooked it up to a PSC box. For those that need to know in the future, the rear most port has pressure for right turn, forward most for left.
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After following typical bleeding procedure, the last thing I do for bleeding is to run the motor and crack the fittings on the ram to let any trapped air out. In the past there has been some but not this time. I'm thinking bench bleeding helped.

Tried to improve my steering and bump stop situation.

Pulled the engine crossmember to see if I could make more room. The only way I can make a big difference would be to rebuild it completely but I don't want to go to that trouble if I'm going to do an LS swap in the nearish future.

I made a couple of cuts and ground out some clearance.

Arrow indicates where ram hit:
u4ysy9a3.jpg


Cut that out and ground the vertical.
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Welded a little strap on the top side to replace at least some of the structure I cut out.
u2u5eha3.jpg


Gained an 1"of clearance
uvereje3.jpg


Now the fittings ate the limiting factor.
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And I notice the tie rod to crossmember is about the same as the fittings with maybe an extra 1/4".
gymuvyqy.jpg


Bought some SUPER beefy spring plates from Offroad Design. 5/8" thick make the old ones look weak. Did this to get a flat surface to start with.

Added a 3" square tube riser.
5e3yvuqa.jpg

Used the "diamond" orientation for clearance to the ubolts.

Made a top plate that sits on the riser. Has tabs to use a bolt to hold it in place and allow it to be removable to get access to the ubolt nuts.
pydu3e8e.jpg


Now I have a nice bump stop platform.
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Still need to modify my bump stop brackets for the height of the riser.
 
I have little nubby bump stops on for now. With the Timbrens installed I wouldn't have room to get the plates off to re-torque the new u-bolts.

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Playing on the RTI ramp. Definitely no clearance issues for the ram when articulated. So it just when the entire front end is moving down on a flat road.

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I agree looks great, can't wait to see this at the bash and see first hand how you used the 2wd frame.
 

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