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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond

Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
Overview Gallery Discussion
y5mgisi said:
Pretty much. Tho ideally I would use a wider tool box that left around a 12" gap on the one side. Cause my spare is essentially a 33x12.5.
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Well I'll say from experience you need more room than you think. The problem I had with that setup is there wasn't enough room to move tire far enough over towards the tool box to clear the wheel stud/bolts. I ended up with the co2 tank over on the other side mounted to the front of the box and had to switching using bolts that were loose so I could pull them out to move the tire.
 
I'm a little surprised how quickly I've filled up that toolbox and both the ammo boxes. I'm probably carrying more than I need but it's hard not to when I have so much real estate available for it. So if you go with a smaller toolbox you'll have be more selective than I have been. Actually thinking I need to do an inventory because I can't even remember what all I have in there.



The toolbox I have is 59" wide at the widest and the bottom section is 48" wide. It's between 18" and 20" deep and about the same 18 to 20 in height as well. Bought it at Home Depot, I think they call it their 60" toolbox.
 
I was thinking of putting a suburban spare tire wheel well thing in that area so the tire would sink down a bit. And then just something like a ratchet strap to hold it.
 
mrk5 said:
JB Fab does make a bracket as well. He sent me one to try out but it was for driverside drop NP241 so it wouldn't line up right with my linkage. Theirs is very beefy so if the price is good and it works on whichever side your drop is, I would recommend using it.
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That is interesting, I was just looking at his website last night and it looks like his "bracket" for a 241 is mounted on a passenger drop 241...did you get your shifter before he offered that or something? cause it looks similar to what you built for your bracket. I am pretty serious about getting one. My stock one keeps binding and making me mad. And for only ~$200 to my door, not a bad deal
 
Kay86K5 said:
That is interesting, I was just looking at his website last night and it looks like his "bracket" for a 241 is mounted on a passenger drop 241...did you get your shifter before he offered that or something? cause it looks similar to what you built for your bracket. I am pretty serious about getting one. My stock one keeps binding and making me mad. And for only ~$200 to my door, not a bad deal
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I think he sent me the wrong one. It was free to try it out because it was a new product that came out after I bought my shifter. I remember one of our conversations he thought I had a driver side drop and I had to correct him. I just waited too long to actually try it.
 
mrk5 said:
I think he sent me the wrong one. It was free to try it out because it was a new product that came out after I bought my shifter. I remember one of our conversations he thought I had a driver side drop and I had to correct him. I just waited too long to actually try it.
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Nice, I may end up getting one soon.

Rig is looking good as always Scott. Let's get out and wheel again this summer.
 
y5mgisi said:
I was thinking of putting a suburban spare tire wheel well thing in that area so the tire would sink down a bit. And then just something like a ratchet strap to hold it.
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That would be neat. If you keep saddle tanks there's not a lot of room to drop below the level of the bed floor til you're near the tank.
 
mrk5 said:
I made the one I'm using now. I used a vice and blow torch. It did flex more than I was happy with so I added a gusset a couple of weeks ago to stiffen it up a little. I found a drawing of the adapter with the bolt pattern that I was able to use to get the bolt holes in the right spot to fit on the adapter. If I remember correctly, it is 3/16" steel.

JB Fab does make a bracket as well. He sent me one to try out but it was for driverside drop NP241 so it wouldn't line up right with my linkage. Theirs is very beefy so if the price is good and it works on whichever side your drop is, I would recommend using it.
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I have another dumb question on your tcase shifter, as I am thinking heavily about getting one...if you run the cable like you originally did (cable coming out the front of shifter and looping back around the the tcase), does this change the direction of shifting with the stick? Meaning the stock shifter goes all the way forward being 2hi and all the way back being 4lo, so does it change it to forward is 4lo, and back is 2hi?

This may seem like a dumb question, but if I get this shifter I have an idea of how I want it installed in my rig and trying to get a visual :thumb:
 
Yes, you would be correct. 2Hi always has the knob pointed away from the cable.
 
mrk5 said:
Yes, you would be correct. 2Hi always has the knob pointed away from the cable.
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Thanks, that is what I thought just wanted to make sure

mrk5 said:
BTW, JB Fab is sending me a new cable bracket.
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So, I have called the number on their website multiple times and never got a response, and now left 2 messages and no one has called me back :confused:. I would like to order this from him but wanted to talk to him on the phone and I can't seem to get him. Any tips?
 
Hmm. Not sure. All of my interaction is thru email. We make his stickers too.

He did say he has a machine down so maybe he's not able to get on the phone. I *think* he might have a day job. His email is [email protected]
 
I've only spoken to him via email as well and he was always quick to respond.
 
Questions on routing wires on frame

I need to run some 4ga cable from the battery to the bed. I'm debating on whether I should cover it in braided sleeve or leave it uncovered. I kinda feel like a sleeve or loom would just collect mud and other crap so I'm leaning towards uncovered.

Also, good or bad ideal to just zip tie the cable to the fuel and/or brake lines. I'd rather not drill additional holes for it's own set of clamps. Although maybe I could find places where the clamps could share a bolt that is used for clamping the fuel and brake lines.
 
I would do it un-covered except where it routes around hazards. I would also try to clamp it where possible and then just run zip ties where not possible.
 
That's probably a good compromise between protection and "open air".
 
37x12.50r17

Been running Nitto Trail Grapplers but those wore out so now I have Goodyear "race" tires courtesy of ORD. I think they are GSA model.
 
I thought you did, how do you like the tire size? Do you feel you need bigger? You think I would get away with a set of 35's on mine?
 
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