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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond

Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
Overview Gallery Discussion
I would pull the timing cover. See what kind of a gear it is. Pull the pan. Do some gasket replacements. Be done.

That is a very, very, did I say very clean lifter valley for a used engine.
 
mrk5 said:
I was planning to pull the timing chain cover just to make sure it looks good. Even before pulling the intake I was pretty sure the motor had been redone but I figure the question then is how good of a job was done on it. So I figured I would double check what I could. Plus I have to replace the harmonic balancer because somewhere along the line the current unit had the threaded holes for the pulley bolt's heli-coiled - poorly. All three bolts were jacked up when I pulled them out.

I was debating about doing the main seals but I probably should since I will have it tore down that far.
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I bought the Summit brand harmonic balancer, seems like a pretty nice piece. I'm pretty sure it was this one https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-162454/overview/make/chevrolet
 
So after putting about 1200 miles on the truck since installing the new rear driveshaft, the truck decided to violently reject the transplant about a mile down the road after a day of trail running. Entirely my fault because 1) I didn't use loc-tite, just relied on the split lock washers and 2) I didn't check them again after install to make sure they were still tight.

I thought at first the only catastrophic damage was to the slip yoke which can be easily replaced:

2016-11-21%2011.16.56.jpg


However upon further inspection the centering ball is shot. It is loose and has binding issues.

2016-11-21%2011.04.51.jpg


The only other spot that got it bad was here:

2016-11-21%2010.21.24.jpg


2016-11-21%2011.04.51.jpg


I feel that spot is okay to use, but it will present a problem when the u-joint needs replaced. Might have to look at replacing the yoke at that point.

The rest is just road rash. The tube is completely unharmed which I feel is due to using the heavier wall stuff. Also got a dent in the exhaust pipe.

2016-11-21%2010.23.17.jpg


I'm hoping to just replace/rebuild the centering ball and the slip yoke and be good to go. Last time I tried to mess with a centering ball I didn't have much luck but I was younger and less patient then.
 
Damn that sucks dude. Do you have your pinion rotated up to match the shaft angle? In all the research I did after my rear shaft tried to eject itself, the main thing I found is that when running a CV on the rear was to make sure you had 0degrees or close to it for the difference between the pinion angle and shaft angle.

I remember reading all the stuff you went through before getting this driveshaft, but don't recall what the angles were.
 
It should be within a degree or two of zero depending on how much you add for axke wrap. Haven't had any vibration before that. Obviously there was some right before it let loose.
 
That's sucky

I vote not to "retorque" the heads.
If they are good leave em. Otherwise replace
 
Deuling said:




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Interesting, I was under the impression from another thread I read the ball had to go in the little cup on the yoke before inserting it on the stud. Your way seems much easier. The one I was reading was also for the 1310 style CV which has a little different set up that these 1350 versions.
 
mrk5 said:
Interesting, I was under the impression from another thread I read the ball had to go in the little cup on the yoke before inserting it on the stud. Your way seems much easier. The one I was reading was also for the 1310 style CV which has a little different set up that these 1350 versions.
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Mine is the stock double cardan from my blazer.

So im sure your 1350 might be different.

But just thought I would share. 2 summers on the rebuild and its still seems nice.
 
Deuling said:
Mine is the stock double cardan from my blazer.

So im sure your 1350 might be different.

But just thought I would share. 2 summers on the rebuild and its still seems nice.
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Coulda fooled me, it looks exactly like mine.
 
So do you think this engine sat a lot based on how clean inside vs the crusty outside?
 
I think it's a good thing the motor was built by an outside source because the mechanic work seems a little hack. I suspect they got a long block from Jasper and did a lousy job sealing the valve covers and oil pan. There was a bolt missing from the intake too.

I have a feeling the previous owner paid a lot for the engine work because this truck was up in the mountains where things are more expensive due to logistics and scarcity of materials. Because of that he made sure the motor was regularly maintained with oil changes.

In addition to the valve covers leaking a bit, some of the crud on the outside of the motor is from power steering leaks at the pump and hydroboost.

I feel pretty good about any internals but anything added to the long block was done pretty shoddy.
 
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