Agreed with above, If it is farely clean I used a scotch Brite to scuff it up before paint.
CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
Oh yeah, the tooth brush is a good idea. I had a little brake cleaner that seemed like it would work. It removes the gray paint Jasper used. I also revealed further evidence/info.
Might not be as bad if I do that after trying to remove as much as possible with brake cleaner.
Did you remove the freeze plugs and hose out the water passages? There is also a small windage tray that bolts up to the oil pump, which stops oil from climbing up the back of the engine block under acceleration. I got one for my my new GM Goodwrench crate engine. It was the only windage tray I used, although I did consider getting one like you got.
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No, I didn't do anything with the water passages. All of the antifreeze that has drained out has been bright green so I figure they're clean. I have not seen the windage tray you are describing.
One of these
from the Milodon web site:
This oil pan baffle installs between the oil pump and rear main cap and prevents oil from climbing up the rear of the pan into the crankshaft during hard acceleration. An easy addition to assure added horsepower.
Well shoot, I might have given that a try if I had noticed it before. I'm thinking more about steep climbs than hard acceleration.
I'm planning to run headers on the 454 and I think I've narrowed it down to 2 choices.
Hedman 69820
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/hed-69820
Sanderson BB8-BEC
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/snh-bb8-bec These are actually black despite the picture.
Both are ceramic coated with 3/8" thick flanges. Here are the points of debate
Any thoughts?
Hedman 69820
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/hed-69820
Sanderson BB8-BEC
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/snh-bb8-bec These are actually black despite the picture.
Both are ceramic coated with 3/8" thick flanges. Here are the points of debate
- Full length gives the best bottom end improvement and really best overall improvement.
- Not sure I have room to get 2.5" pipe past the clocked tcase and I'm afraid full length headers would not give enough room to cross the passenger pipe over before the tcase.
- The block huggers are about $50 more and yield the lowest power gains.
- Block huggers should allow plenty of room to route exhaust as needed.
- In my K5, the full length headers ended up with a thick crust of baked on mud. This could damage the ceramic coating.
- I love the ball and socket collectors on the Hedman's. The regular bolt together flanges have caused me the most trouble with past headers, more than the flanges at the heads.
Any thoughts?
Long tubes are a bitch to package the exhaust. Been there, done that. Go with a shorty.
I'd go with the shorty. For tha ease of packaging mainly. You won't feel the difference for what little gains you are giving up. It's not a drag car. The fact you are going bbc will be the biggest gain. Besides, the shorties will still be better than the stock cast manifolds.
Be careful, the shorties automatically bring the hate. Easily half of the people that see I have shorties immediately go to the lost power argument. 
I had long tubes and duals on my old truck for 15+ years and just learned to deal with the routing and inconvenience. While building my K5 I made up my mind I wanted things to be routed cleaner and easier to work on, the shorties allowed me to do that.
I felt the same as Zoomad75. The reality is it's a 5500+ lbs truck, not a race car and I doubt I'll ever notice the small percentage of loss.
I had long tubes and duals on my old truck for 15+ years and just learned to deal with the routing and inconvenience. While building my K5 I made up my mind I wanted things to be routed cleaner and easier to work on, the shorties allowed me to do that.
I felt the same as Zoomad75. The reality is it's a 5500+ lbs truck, not a race car and I doubt I'll ever notice the small percentage of loss.
All good info, thanks guys.
I'm with the guys above. I have long tubes on my K20 which is only a small block but they're in the way a lot.
Stay away from headers, headers are stupid. : ) They leak, cost to much and leak some more.
That being said but I would run the shorties.
That being said but I would run the shorties.
I'm honestly not a huge fan of headers but I'm trying to pick up power where I can. Also the exhaust manifolds on the motor now need replaced. I do know from experience with the 71 cuda we owned that ceramic headers are far superior to uncoated.
My headers don't leak. I've never been without a vehicle with headers. Don't waste time or money on gaskets made of anything less than aluminum or copper.
It helps you're going with 3/8 flanges also that'll help a lot to prevent leaks. Going with the locking header bolts?
