CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond

Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
Stay away from headers, headers are stupid. : ) They leak, cost to much and leak some more.

That being said but I would run the shorties.
I've never heard of headers leaking? I think this is a myth. Some web wheeler on pirate probably said this once and now everyone believes it. I'd go with shorties too. Oh wait... I already did.
 
It helps you're going with 3/8 flanges also that'll help a lot to prevent leaks. Going with the locking header bolts?
I was going to but then I read quite a bit of negatives - at least about Stage 8 bolts - and have decided not to.
 
We just put Sanderson shorty's on the 57, very nice quality and the staff was very helpful through the ordering process.
 
Copper gaskets. Spend the money for them. Worth it with thick flanges and locking bolts to stop leaks.

I used them with the crappy no-name headers that were on my old 75. Sealed up well as long as the bolts stayed tight. They are reusable too.
 
The Sanderson's actually recommend RTV (only) at the head, I don't remember which version but I have not had any leaks.
 
The Sanderson's actually recommend RTV (only) at the head, I don't remember which version but I have not had any leaks.

Correct, lay small beads and let it sit overnight before installing.

We ended up using copper gaskets because we needed to get the car running for transport.
 
I do think I read that. If I remember correctly the problem I was having with hooker is a thinner than 3/8 flange.
 
I got my horns mounted today. I also installed a new stereo in my company pickup so I didn't have time to get the air and electrical connected to the horns.

20170114_150036.jpg


Would have liked to point them forward but didn't have a clean way to do it. This was really the cleanest spot I had. I did add a second bracket to the one included with the horns.

20170114_165811.jpg


Without it the second bracket making a T, it was rocking quite a bit.

I will tee into the line that feeds the gauge in the cab for the air. I'll pull power from the battery with a push button switch on the ground leg.
 
Yeah, bet that's gonna suck

How's the motor work going?
 
No room on the outside of the radiator support?
No, I have a battery on each side plus coolant expansion tank on one side and air intake tube on the other.

That's where I've always seen them.

Or under the bed.
I did think some about that, just makes air and wiring a bit trickier.

Wife thinks it'll be loud either way so it won't make much difference where it's pointed. Course she's not thrilled with whole idea anyway. :haha:
 
Right now the plan is to get the Sanderson ceramic coated headers.
 
I'm trying to budget out what I need to set up the TBI on the 454. My current 350TBI does not have the knock sensor circuit which I do want to add. I have a computer and harness from a TBI350 that did use a knock sensor. So I just need to have a chip made for it correct? What does that entail?

While I'm at it, I would prefer to delete the EGR part of the setup. I assume this is possible when I have the chip made for the ECM?
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom