CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond

Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
Sorry that I am late to this party, and I am going to ask , maybe dumb question, but
Won't a street 45* elbow help out?

And I believe that the knock sensor will still work with your extension as it is still listening to the coolant. We all know how sounds travel in water.
 
If you got aftermarket mounts that space would be open.

Do you really need it?
The big advantage for factory TBI to me is having the knock & VSS input. Without them I might as well go aftermarket.

I was studying the competition motor mounts and I think material removal would still be required.

Sorry that I am late to this party, and I am going to ask , maybe dumb question, but
Won't a street 45* elbow help out?

And I believe that the knock sensor will still work with your extension as it is still listening to the coolant. We all know how sounds travel in water.
I tried an elbow but it won't fit. If I put thd elbow on first I can't get the dipstick to line up properly due the metal section that inserts into the receptacle in the pan. If I put the dipstick in first then there's not enough room to spin it.

From the reading I've done it may be tight contact with the block that's important more so than the water jacket. But who knows how correct that info is.
 
I'm going to step out of the box here and ask a dumb question.. Given the way the dipstick tube comes out of the pan is there another pan with a different dipstick tube location?

Also, the knock sensor does not sense the knock through the water. It feels the vibration through the block. By using a peizo-electric crystal it generates its own voltage when it dectects the vibration. This is why you can induce the knock value by tapping on the block with a hammer while it's running.
 
I'm going to step out of the box here and ask a dumb question.. Given the way the dipstick tube comes out of the pan is there another pan with a different dipstick tube location?

Also, the knock sensor does not sense the knock through the water. It feels the vibration through the block. By using a peizo-electric crystal it generates its own voltage when it dectects the vibration. This is why you can induce the knock value by tapping on the block with a hammer while it's running.
That's the best explanation I've read yet for the function of the knock sensor. So that makes me feel like using the threaded boss I indicated earlier would allow proper function without having it stick way the hell out there.

Yes I was thinking the same about the pan. There may be pans out there with driver side dipsticks that would make things easier. Unfortunately I invested too much in this one to be comfortable abandoning it and now that it's painted, I own it so no returns. Hindsight 20/20, I might have looked for a pan with a different dipstick had I known it would be such a problem.
 
Mine is 100% stock including the knock sensor. No issues. And as you know, I carry every electrical component including an ECM. A few people have borrowed some of these parts.:D
I resemble that remark....
 
@ZooMad75 , I understand very well your explanation of that, but wouldn't you think that it is still using the coolant?
When you tap on the block, you would definitely be sending sound into the coolant.
I would consider how much the coolant comes into contact with the cylinder walls. I do understand that probably a fair amount of reason for it being in the block drain was that it existed already.

I am not saying that the idea of the threaded boss won't work. Just discussing truck stuff with friends that don't mind questions!
 
@ZooMad75 , I understand very well your explanation of that, but wouldn't you think that it is still using the coolant?
When you tap on the block, you would definitely be sending sound into the coolant.
I would consider how much the coolant comes into contact with the cylinder walls. I do understand that probably a fair amount of reason for it being in the block drain was that it existed already.

I am not saying that the idea of the threaded boss won't work. Just discussing truck stuff with friends that don't mind questions!
It senses vibration, not sound
 
I was thinking that technically the coolant would be absorbing some of the vibration. Which could make the sensor more sensitive in the blind hole. Part of me wonders tho, just how sensitive thus thing could be. I feel like at some point the differences may be pretty marginal.

I've read of others installing the knock sensor in the block off plate for the fuel pump, in a port above the oil filter, and in the motor mount bracket. I just wish those people would report back on whether or not it worked.

There's also some sort of chassis mount that Howell does.
 
By using a peizo-electric crystal it generates its own voltage when it dectects the vibration. This is why you can induce the knock value by tapping on the block with a hammer while it's running.

I just wish those people would report back on whether or not it worked.

There's also some sort of chassis mount that Howell does.
If you can induce a voltage by knocking on the block with a hammer, couldn't you install it in the boss you were considering, then hook up a multimeter to the leads and tap the block a few times and see if you register any voltage?
Seems like something fairly easy to test while you've got it sitting on the stand.
 
I suppose that's true. Could potentially compare locations. Although I don't have coolant in the block.
 

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