CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
Unless its in the truck and a diesel, well makes it really hard.
No thanks
But you use
y gas...
Sure you can get sound and vibrations through the coolant. However, it's the vibrations being detected that causes the piezo crystal to generate the voltage. Just for an example, put your ear to the rear bumper of your truck and have a buddy tap on the front bumper or frame rail. You'll not only hear it all the way back there, but you would feel it. Vibrations travel through metal quite well.
Take a look at where the knock sensors are located on the early LS engines. Right in the valley of the block between the heads. Why did they not put them where they were on the old small blocks? Simple answer is they were more centrally located and could detect knock better there. So why did the old small blocks and big blocks get the knock sensors down in the bottom of the block near the pan rail? Since either the small block or big block were designed well before any type of EFI there were no provisions designed in like the LS design. So they took an existing hole already in the design. It was tapped and ready to go, instead of putting the normal bock drain plugs they put the knock sensors there. Another threaded boss would work in a pinch.
Found this lovely bit of damage today after investigating a pesky squeak that popped up on the drive home from Blazer Bash.
Gonna have to do some welding repair on that last one. Also wondering if I can weld the fender back together or if I should just get "new" fenders. Worried that the fenders will just tear again on the edge of the repair spot welds.
Gonna have to do some welding repair on that last one. Also wondering if I can weld the fender back together or if I should just get "new" fenders. Worried that the fenders will just tear again on the edge of the repair spot welds.
Try some extra bracing firstFound this lovely bit of damage today after investigating a pesky squeak that popped up on the drive home from Blazer Bash.
Gonna have to do some welding repair on that last one. Also wondering if I can weld the fender back together or if I should just get "new" fenders. Worried that the fenders will just tear again on the edge of the repair spot welds.
Nearly pristine OE driver side fender on my K5 is broken just like that. My smashed to hell fenders on my K20? Nope...Found this lovely bit of damage today after investigating a pesky squeak that popped up on the drive home from Blazer Bash.
Gonna have to do some welding repair on that last one. Also wondering if I can weld the fender back together or if I should just get "new" fenders. Worried that the fenders will just tear again on the edge of the repair spot welds.
Nicole and I were discussing bracing ideas. It also occurred to me some of the problem might be with my sliders. I'm thinking I may need more gap between the sliders and the bottom of the fenders. I wonder if when the body is tweaked from suspension articulation, the sliders might be pushing up on the fenders putting more pressure on that mounting tab.
Yeah I was thinking that was at least the nail in the coffin. Although the driver denies it...
Can't, pictures don't lie
I would be mildly more concerned with the tear in the place where the fender bolt on the the separated fender.
Don't worry, I am.
My Blazer did that.
Martin
Martin
