This is where I was going
CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
This is where I was going
Good point, no need to run it off the starter.That one time thoughfire bad...Just run a short length off the battery to the breaker then from the breaker run your wire to the junction block. The shorter the better on the unfused portion to the breaker. Avoid the starter altogether for ease of service in the future.
Scott do the external solenoid conversion. Aka a Ford starter solenoid.
So much easier to do a ton of stuff, remote start, connect to power etc. Don't have to worry about the power wire melting on the header. I do it to basically every Chevy I own.
So much easier to do a ton of stuff, remote start, connect to power etc. Don't have to worry about the power wire melting on the header. I do it to basically every Chevy I own.
I use a 70amp maxi fuse for mine. Seems to work.
Interesting idea as well.
Learn about something new every day.
Good, that helps.
We use the 300 amp ones for our winches on all our work trucks. Some get 500 amp ANN fuses also.
So I'm usually the spark plug buyer that just gets whatever's listed for my application. The 454 came out of an 85 K30. Advance lists ACDelco R44ts and OReilly lists R44t. I think I'm leaning towards the "ts" but I'm wondering how worried I need to be about the piston hitting the plug?
Not unless those have a dome
Take your kids silly puddy, blob a small wad on a plug and screw it in. Roll the engine over and pull the plug
It will show how close the piston and plug are.
Some time back in this thread I reported that the passenger tank pump wasn't function properly. It would run but when that tank was selected, the truck would run poorly. Very similar to how it will act when the rubber line between pump and sending unit has failed. I dropped the tank today but didn't find anything obviously wrong. The only think I can see is that the tank is dented near the pump and the tray is cracked.
Could the tank be pushed up into the bottom of the pump and cause it to not get good suction?
Before I dropped the tank I pulled the discharge line of the tank selector valve and used a long hose to empty the passenger tank into the driver tank. So I know the pump works in free-flow.
If it's not something caused by the tank being dented, it's gotta be a failing pump that's no more than 2 yrs old. Bosch pump.
I'm a little concerned about putting the EP381 pump in the tank without knowing why the other wasn't allowing the truck to run properly. Not sure if I should think about getting a new tank.
Thoughts?
Could the tank be pushed up into the bottom of the pump and cause it to not get good suction?
Before I dropped the tank I pulled the discharge line of the tank selector valve and used a long hose to empty the passenger tank into the driver tank. So I know the pump works in free-flow.
If it's not something caused by the tank being dented, it's gotta be a failing pump that's no more than 2 yrs old. Bosch pump.
I'm a little concerned about putting the EP381 pump in the tank without knowing why the other wasn't allowing the truck to run properly. Not sure if I should think about getting a new tank.
Thoughts?
It's hard to see in the picture, but the entire area circled is dented in.
The dents on the edges are easy to see, but it's also dented in the middle. The pump pickup is about where the X is.
The dents on the edges are easy to see, but it's also dented in the middle. The pump pickup is about where the X is.
The switch is actually new in the last 2 years. When the passenger tank originally failed the previous owner just removed the switch and zip tied the plug up in the dash. I found that and was able to put a new switch on.
Before emptying the tank, I did install the new selector valve which incidentally was exactly like the selector valve that was in the truck. Even has the exact same sticker saying it's rated for 65psi.
With the tank removed, it wouldn't be hard to check the voltage at the plug on the top of the frame where the sending unit plugs in.
I have full voltage past the selector valve where the sending unit plugs in. Did a continuity check on the sending unit wire and it's fine as well.
So it's either gotta be a pump failure or something to do with the tank getting dented.
So it's either gotta be a pump failure or something to do with the tank getting dented.
I started having trouble after the Kelly Flats trail run with JustinV, ktmoutfront, and Nate. I don't remember hitting any rocks tho.
with a cracked baffle it looks like you have no choice but to buy a new tank right?
oh and be sure to test your 381 pump before you mount the tank and lose access to it. My brand new 381 wouldn't spin, had to pull it out and use a probe to get is started
oh and be sure to test your 381 pump before you mount the tank and lose access to it. My brand new 381 wouldn't spin, had to pull it out and use a probe to get is started
That's what I'm on the fence about. At least a new tank is only $100 which actually seems cheap to me all things considered.with a cracked baffle it looks like you have no choice but to buy a new tank right?
oh and be sure to test your 381 pump before you mount the tank and lose access to it. My brand new 381 wouldn't spin, had to pull it out and use a probe to get is started
I was reading your thread and the part about the pump with a sinking feeling in my gut. I went with Bosch last time after reading about people having recent problems with ACDelco pumps. But if my problem on the passenger tank was due to pump failure, maybe there is no good answer. Still have my fingers crossed on the ACDelco pump. Maybe I should look at a Walbro. If ACDelco is loosing reliability, what is a good reliable brand then?
The saddle tanks are kind of a bitch to remove. I told my wife maybe I should do external pumps so they're easy to get to. That's actually what the Holley tech forums were recommending.
I know your along ways down this road but
Bosch 044 mounted to the frame rail for the win. I hate in tank pumps after learning how to mount outside the tank pumps correctly.
Let me know and I can more than double your engine swap budget with just the fuel system alone.
Bosch 044 mounted to the frame rail for the win. I hate in tank pumps after learning how to mount outside the tank pumps correctly.
Let me know and I can more than double your engine swap budget with just the fuel system alone.
I've had good luck with the AC Delco pumps up until this one. In fact I used the one I originally bought for the K10 on my 97 2 Door Tahoe and bought another from Rock Auto that I used for the K10. It just needed a little help to get moving, as if there was an assembly oil or something that kept it from starting. I had just poured gas into the tank too so it may have not been an issue if it sat in the gas longer. I've had really bad luck with other brand pumps that you find at the local autozone however I had goodluck with Walbros in the Honda's.
I agree, tanks are relatively cheap. I'd probably do it now and save the hassle of doing it later.
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Better just ditch all that muti-tank crap and go with a single tank since you are changing pumps and exh and all that stuff already!
