Not uncommon. FAST states power and ground directly to the battery to ensure there's no noise in the circuit. It's the first thing the tech support guys ask if you have problems.
CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
After fixing my rookie mistake, it's alive!
So not knowing any better, I figured if I had the dots lined up on the timing chain sprockets, I was at TDC. Come to find out that is NOT the case. So guess what, I had the good 'ol "my engine won't start,
the distributor is 180° out". To be at TDC both dots on the sprockets need to be at 12 o'clock. NOT the cam at 6 and the crank at 12 where it's easier to make sure they are aligned.
Then I was concerned because the fans weren't coming on. Turns out I had unplugged them at the fan motors. So that all works good as well.
And this is the best "tool" I ever invented for pulling distributors.
And I cheated and used a bolt in the factory TBI firewall grommet to plug that big hole. I actually like the idea tho because in the future I can pull the bolt out and use the hole to pass wiring and the like through the firewall if needed.
So not knowing any better, I figured if I had the dots lined up on the timing chain sprockets, I was at TDC. Come to find out that is NOT the case. So guess what, I had the good 'ol "my engine won't start,
the distributor is 180° out". To be at TDC both dots on the sprockets need to be at 12 o'clock. NOT the cam at 6 and the crank at 12 where it's easier to make sure they are aligned.Then I was concerned because the fans weren't coming on. Turns out I had unplugged them at the fan motors.
So that all works good as well.And this is the best "tool" I ever invented for pulling distributors.
And I cheated and used a bolt in the factory TBI firewall grommet to plug that big hole. I actually like the idea tho because in the future I can pull the bolt out and use the hole to pass wiring and the like through the firewall if needed.
It's always a Good feeling to hear it run the first time.
Last edited:
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I would think that with all the aftermarket stuff added to cars requiring "direct to battery", they'd build in a voltage regulator to do the buffering. It's just dumb to me to require that. Or at least give you an external isolator.
Good work!! Awesome to hear the fo-fiddy-fo running for the first time. Sounds good too.
Sounds pretty good also.
Wait until he has the RV behind it.
Sounds good
Took it for a short drive and I have a few things to iron out. I can't figure out for sure if this system requires a throttle return spring. It seems to have a pretty stiff spring on the throttle shaft. I added a fairly light spring but it feels to stiff. In order to press hard enough to accelerate, I end up accelerating like I'm trying to do a burnout. Then letting off it's like it ends up coming all the way off.
Gotta mess with the 700r4 throttle valve cable, the shift points are way off. Can't let that slide on the 700 or I'll be doing a trans swap soon.
Also gonna mess with the fuel system. Gonna get a barb fitting so I can bypass the tank selector valve and verify if it's causing the high fuel pressure. If that doesn't drop the pressure, then the bend that 1-ton reference has to be the culprit. I'm a little worried about running it with 100psi fuel pressure. For one thing the tank selector valve is only rated for 65psi and I'm not sure if it's good for the Sniper either.
AND I seem to have the coolant temp sensor (CTS) issue. It's reading about 10 degrees lower than the Autometer gauge and the screw in gauge I added to the top radiator hose. I installed the CTS that came with the Sniper but I have an ACDelco unit I will swap in to see how it reads. For reference the Autometer sender is in the same passage as the CTS so they should be seeing the same temps.
Gotta mess with the 700r4 throttle valve cable, the shift points are way off. Can't let that slide on the 700 or I'll be doing a trans swap soon.
Also gonna mess with the fuel system. Gonna get a barb fitting so I can bypass the tank selector valve and verify if it's causing the high fuel pressure. If that doesn't drop the pressure, then the bend that 1-ton reference has to be the culprit. I'm a little worried about running it with 100psi fuel pressure. For one thing the tank selector valve is only rated for 65psi and I'm not sure if it's good for the Sniper either.
AND I seem to have the coolant temp sensor (CTS) issue. It's reading about 10 degrees lower than the Autometer gauge and the screw in gauge I added to the top radiator hose. I installed the CTS that came with the Sniper but I have an ACDelco unit I will swap in to see how it reads. For reference the Autometer sender is in the same passage as the CTS so they should be seeing the same temps.
Same passage, as in right next to each other? Or ?
Yes. Within inches. The intake has a cooling passage the runs across the front from head to head. The guage sender is in the bypass port that you chastised me for not using and the CTS is in a port closer to the head.
or their gauges just read differently. My system reads lower then what my gauge does too, mine are just opposite sides of the intake.
Im mostly concerned about the fans keeping it a little cooler so I could just adjust the on temps down 10°.
I always thought passenger side front (or cylinder head) was the most accurate. If it matters, I'd think where you have the senders, it's picking up the coolant coming in from the radiator
Pass side cyl head is supposed to be the warmest point. That's where I prefer
Where Scott put his is my number 2
Never mind
I see what you did there. Well played
