Looks like eggplant
Had a friends Jeep that was purple and we called it the eggplant. Sounds like this truck found itself a name!
CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
Had a friends Jeep that was purple and we called it the eggplant. Sounds like this truck found itself a name!
So today was kind of a big fail.
I worked on getting the rear shocks mounted like I want and not longer bolted to the bed floor. The upper mount ended up a little ridiculous. I was trying to use scrap/drop pieces we have in the shop. Ended up with a kinda crazy conglomeration.
This is the old vs the new.
First fail, I didn't end up with as much up travel as I had planned. I was shooting for 3.5" to 4".
Just to the left of the bottom of the shock body there's a bit of the caliper casting I had to grind off. The irony is I thought it was going to be too close to the spring plate and you can see in the first picture where I cut some of the spring plate off.
What I failed to realize is that the banjo bolt would also hit the shock. In hindsight it was a dumb oversight.
It popped the bottom of the shock off.
You can see in this photo how much the shock travels in a typical drive home. The black oring is where the travel stopped at its furthest point.
So it looks like I need to cut the shock mount off and move it over about 1/2" away from the caliper. I also think I will need to look at getting the short body version Bilstein makes in the reservoir shocks. The shocks I have now are 12" travel version.
I worked on getting the rear shocks mounted like I want and not longer bolted to the bed floor. The upper mount ended up a little ridiculous. I was trying to use scrap/drop pieces we have in the shop. Ended up with a kinda crazy conglomeration.
This is the old vs the new.
First fail, I didn't end up with as much up travel as I had planned. I was shooting for 3.5" to 4".
Just to the left of the bottom of the shock body there's a bit of the caliper casting I had to grind off. The irony is I thought it was going to be too close to the spring plate and you can see in the first picture where I cut some of the spring plate off.
What I failed to realize is that the banjo bolt would also hit the shock. In hindsight it was a dumb oversight.
It popped the bottom of the shock off.
You can see in this photo how much the shock travels in a typical drive home. The black oring is where the travel stopped at its furthest point.
So it looks like I need to cut the shock mount off and move it over about 1/2" away from the caliper. I also think I will need to look at getting the short body version Bilstein makes in the reservoir shocks. The shocks I have now are 12" travel version.
Top looks too close also. Might hit when articulated and stuffed.
I like that you are working on better shock operation!
But I have to ask why you didn't move to the front side of the axle in order to get away from the caliper. Would that let you make more room between the shock and spring plate?
But I have to ask why you didn't move to the front side of the axle in order to get away from the caliper. Would that let you make more room between the shock and spring plate?
I was planning to bump stop the up travel. I just wanted more the 2.5" since I figure the trailer could drop the rear almost that much. 4" would be my goal and that will keep the tire out of the top of the shocks.
If I hadn't popped the bottom off the shock I was going to run it up the ramp and verify everything.
Trying to set them up like factory with one side in front of the axle and the other side behind the axle. On the other side in front of the axle I won't have to worry about the caliper issues. At least this first side will give me the measurements I need to stay far enough away from the spring plate.
So shocks are on hold while I go back to the drawing board.
Pulled the fixed yoke off the donor. I realized I can use this yoke. I'll have to shorten the rear shaft anyway, might as well change the shaft to 1350.
I hope somewhere in the vast interwebs it is known how many roller bearings go in those bearings so I don't miss any. Will grease hold them in for reassembly?
Pulled the fixed yoke off the donor. I realized I can use this yoke. I'll have to shorten the rear shaft anyway, might as well change the shaft to 1350.
I hope somewhere in the vast interwebs it is known how many roller bearings go in those bearings so I don't miss any. Will grease hold them in for reassembly?
I wanna say 15 but don’t quote me on that. And I used grease to hold mine in the two times I had it apart. I drove my probably 200 miles before swapping inputs again and the grease was still there from the first time.
When I started pulling it apart I remembered someone mentioning something about pieces falling out then I heard the pieces drop.
I figure I should be okay because I'll have bearings from the other case as well. So I should be able to fill in the races.
I figure I should be okay because I'll have bearings from the other case as well. So I should be able to fill in the races.
There are 15 bigger ones that go inside the rear output, grease them up to hold them in place.
There is also a needle bearing pressed in the cast iron housing at the bottom of your picture, those take as many as they'll hold.
There is also a needle bearing pressed in the cast iron housing at the bottom of your picture, those take as many as they'll hold.
I’m not concerned. Not only can you not count, you can’t tagSo nobody is going to be a @Bent77 and say that there are 32 rollers in there????
Just to cause trouble!!!!
Edit: I should have tagged @orangespice
Yes, the little ones were the first I discovered.
I think it's interesting this bolt is trapped by the vent. Also interesting the vent hole is so small.
Noticed the race for the small diameter roller bearings is scored up. I will check the race in the slip yoke case and if the race is better I'll see about swapping them.
Noticed the race for the small diameter roller bearings is scored up. I will check the race in the slip yoke case and if the race is better I'll see about swapping them.
pop the vent out and discard .
tap to 1/8th pipe in the hole .
barb fitting and longer hose and be done .
tap to 1/8th pipe in the hole .
barb fitting and longer hose and be done .
The rollers in the bearing in the lower rear cover shouldn't come apart.
some do some dont that have a cage .
the orignal style had no cage and fall out .
and the cage style do not have as many bearings in them with the cage taking up some of the space .
i use this stuff for reassemble
the orignal style had no cage and fall out .
and the cage style do not have as many bearings in them with the cage taking up some of the space .
i use this stuff for reassemble
I actually thought about doing that. Sounds like a good idea to me.
That assemblee goo looks like neat stuff.
got it at my local napa for around 10-12 bucks if i recall.
almost melts in your hand / fingers . gets to a specific temp of around 100* and goes liquid to drop out and then let the other lube take over.
