'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond

[Kay86K5]

Yeah, to be honest, I have gone away from the thought that clocking flatter is better. I think it's way easier to keep the t-case in a relatively closer position to stock, and then just build a beefier skid plate to handle bashing. Sure your "ground clearance" is a bit less, but I think its way easier to deal with then the problems that occur with clocking flat (floor clearance, d-shaft angles, fluid levels, etc). I guess that's easy to say when you are running 42"+ tires though .

 

[mrk5]

and a longer flat area of frame to work with.

Probably nearly as much as the wheelbase on some Jeeps.

I moved the Magnum shift lever. These images should help clarify and alleviate concerns.

 

[mrk5]

Yeah, to be honest, I have gone away from the thought that clocking flatter is better. I think it's way easier to keep the t-case in a relatively closer position to stock, and then just build a beefier skid plate to handle bashing. Sure your "ground clearance" is a bit less, but I think its way easier to deal with then the problems that occur with clocking flat (floor clearance, d-shaft angles, fluid levels, etc). I guess that's easy to say when you are running 42"+ tires though .

It always amazes me how much less the diff hits rocks with 40's vs 37's.

 

[mrk5]

Also you can see in the photos the Magnum has numerous clocking positions available.

 

[mrk5]

i have it already and it clicked in to both ends of the holley sniper tps unit and harnness .

I'm pretty sure the Quick4 only needs 1 wire off that jumper. Figure I'll just cap the other 2 off with shrink tube.

 

[Kay86K5]

A pic with JB fab's shifter bracket for the Magnum on there too would be beneficial. Cause all I know with my Titan box, is that if the shifter was located at the top of the case like that, it would be a real tight squeeze with it and the floor (On my titan box, my shifter is on the driver side of it...pic below shows it...kinda).

 

[mrk5]

The arrow is pointing to the hole for the Magnum.

 

[Kay86K5]

Ah, I totally get it now...very different than my setup. Now that I see how it works...you should be totally fine then. As you can see from my pic below, I have a bracket that bolts to the side of the titan box for the shifter, I was thinking JB Fab's was something similar to that. But I like the way his setup will work for the Magnum (BTW...the pic below was when I was adjusting the detents...so technically it wasn't on a bench, but more like the floor )

 

[mrk5]

Yeah, interesting difference.

 

[sweetk30]

@mrk5

here ya go . found them . the place i got mine .

http://www.casperselectronics.com/c...ct&product_id=355&search=tps&description=true

there in Loveland, CO

 

[mrk5]

there in Loveland, CO

That's less than 30 minutes from where I live. Wonder if I can just buy it in person.

 

[mrk5]

Any thoughts/opinions on remote filters for transmissions?

Got on this thought because I would like to put the trans temp gauge in the supply line to the cooler and I found a remote filter with an extra port for the gauge sender.

The other thing I want to do is put the radiator tank transmission cooler in service. Keeping in mind my radiator is for a mid 90's truck, does anyone know what the fitting size is? I found one source that said 1/2-20 inverted flare, but I haven't been able to verify.

 

[Bent77]

Not a fan of using the radiator for a trans cooler, seem to generate more issues. A remote filter and cooler is best, but look for some positive connections other than hose clamps

 

[Justin V]

And don't think that having a remote filter means that you get to neglect the internal filter...

 

[skunked]

You're talking about the radiator tank fittings right? Yes, 1/2 20 inverted, I just bought some a month or two ago to loop my cooler in, worked great.

These are 8AN for my application but you get the point.....
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-640390

 

[skunked]

Not a fan of using the radiator for a trans cooler, seem to generate more issues. A remote filter and cooler is best, but look for some positive connections other than hose clamps

I'm going to disagree with you on this one, a few reasons why:

1) Liquid cools more efficiently that air.
2) The radiator helps warm up the fluid, I've had issues with my fluid not getting to temp in cold conditions.
3) My Derale cooler will not keep my trans cool on long hill climbs with all fans running.

 

[sweetk30]

cold weather area's should have the rad cooler plumbed in . cold fluid is almost as bad as hot fluid .

i like to watch the hot out of trans before any cooler so i know just how hard i am working the unit . then install a 2nd sensor on a flip switch for same gauge so you can see the pan temp.

and if you wish plumb in a thermo switch for the trans fluid to flow rad when cold and when warm only flow aftermarket big cooler . this gets you the best of both worlds .

 

[skunked]

@mrk5 in the bottom, out the top.

 

[nvrenuf]

Needs Pushlocks, no clamps.

 

[skunked]

Needs Pushlocks, no clamps.

The continental hose, fittings (most) and clamps came with the derale cooler, no reason to reinvent the wheel.