I wouldn't think it's the 205, probably a driveline angle vibration.
CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
Pull the front dhaft and drive it. Then swap the front in and pull the rear and drive it.
Bad output bearings will do just about that. Wiggle the front and rear flanges on the Tcase. Push them up and down. I've found that .010 deflection will make a serious vibration. This could be from bearings, or undersize machined flanges, etc. Indicate that bitch to rule it out.
Pull the rear shaft, shift the 205 into 4WD and go for a drive and see if it's different. I bet it's driveline vibration related.
x2 .
my old truck was fine at highway speed . then I bobbed the wheel base down from 135 to 110ish and shortened the shaft and didn't verify the angles and had vibs and growling like you stated .
x8 on the driveline....or whatever we are up to at this point
Okay there are a few things going on that you guys have alerted me to.
First I thought it was unlikely the front output flange was loose. I thought surely I'd notice when I put the front drive shaft in. NOPE, it was loose. So I torqued that down to 110ft-lbs (90-130 was the range I found).
Then I went for another test drive thinking about what you all have said. Noise was still there. So I locked the hubs and put the rear in neutral. Sure enough the growly/grindy noise is gone. So I got to looking at the rear shaft and I notice what I believe is the problem. Here's a sketch.
Bear in mind the bottom version is a bit of an exageration, but it illustrates the point. When I moved my carrier bearing back with the NP241 I was already at the upper limit of the angle on the rear section which is why it's a 1410 CV. So now I've made that angle even worse.
Long story short, I need to drop the carrier bearing down (that's the middle part with the rectangle under it).
First I thought it was unlikely the front output flange was loose. I thought surely I'd notice when I put the front drive shaft in. NOPE, it was loose. So I torqued that down to 110ft-lbs (90-130 was the range I found).
Then I went for another test drive thinking about what you all have said. Noise was still there. So I locked the hubs and put the rear in neutral. Sure enough the growly/grindy noise is gone. So I got to looking at the rear shaft and I notice what I believe is the problem. Here's a sketch.
Bear in mind the bottom version is a bit of an exageration, but it illustrates the point. When I moved my carrier bearing back with the NP241 I was already at the upper limit of the angle on the rear section which is why it's a 1410 CV. So now I've made that angle even worse.
Long story short, I need to drop the carrier bearing down (that's the middle part with the rectangle under it).
so wheeling this weekend after all?
We'll see. This has put me behind on finishing up. I was going to make the skid plate today. Now I need to drop the carrier bearing tomorrow - fingers crossed I can do it with a couple of spacer blocks. That leaves Thursday to get a skid plate made. Plus a few other odds and ends.
If this truck would fit on our equipment trailer, I'd be tempted to just haul it down there. If it breaks on the trail I know @ktmoutfront will fix it for me. And I can usually get Nate to crawl under the truck and if I act extra helpless...
If this truck would fit on our equipment trailer, I'd be tempted to just haul it down there. If it breaks on the trail I know @ktmoutfront will fix it for me. And I can usually get Nate to crawl under the truck and if I act extra helpless...
I have plenty of zip ties to get you home.
I bet that Wade would even spare some duct tape and hose clamps to help you out!!
Clamps are too expensive. Baling wire would be appropriate.
I already used up his spare hose.
Okay, now it's quiet enough for a baby to nap.
I put my angle finder on the trans pan and made the intermediate shaft at the same angle. Trickiest part was making the flat piece for the carrier bearing at the same angle as the shaft and also follow the angle of the frame. I ended up being off by 1/2 a degree so I'm calling it good. It will need painted, but that can happen later.
Tomorrow is skid plate fab. If everything goes well with my commutes, I'm going to be headed wheeling Saturday. Well, I'm going either way, it's just a matter of which vehicle.
I put my angle finder on the trans pan and made the intermediate shaft at the same angle. Trickiest part was making the flat piece for the carrier bearing at the same angle as the shaft and also follow the angle of the frame. I ended up being off by 1/2 a degree so I'm calling it good. It will need painted, but that can happen later.
Tomorrow is skid plate fab. If everything goes well with my commutes, I'm going to be headed wheeling Saturday. Well, I'm going either way, it's just a matter of which vehicle.
Holy thirty foot long driveshaft Batman....
The drive home went good. Added another quart of fluid to the trans, I figured it needed more because it had a little delay going into gear on initial startup but this was the first chance to get it up to operating temperature. Which by the way was nice and cool, but it wasn't terribly warm outside today.
Don't you have a job?
Yeah, luckily I'm caught up right now but I still have to do paying work too. If not, I'd be ready to go by now. And I'm still worried about getting the skid plate done yet.
Good for you.
