I don't get the direct heat on the floor boards like I used to after adding the insulation. Before that, I did actually warm burritos on the floor boards. Passenger side against the transmission tunnel was the best spot.
CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
Nah, the burritos go on the engine man!
My youngest son keeps wanting me to do that. I get too paranoid about a fire.
I’m not sure how that’s even possible unless a fuel leak is added to the equation. Double wrapped in heavy duty foil they take an hour to heat up and they’re never too hot to eat so they’re not going to ignite.
A 7.3L powerstroke is good for brats too. I just foil wrap leftover ones and stick them down in the valley by the turbski and after a 2 hr drive up on the mtns they are nice and warm.
I'm running 5" lift 64" Chevy springs with longer ORD shackles in the factory configuration and I love it. Works awesome. Stephen at ORD advised me on the merits of doing this setup way back at the EJS vendor show when I lived in Moab. I fabbed my hangers but now you can buy brackets to swap them in.
I was thinking about this for myself for 2 reasons.
- The springs I run now were bought used at the beginning of this project. So they have been well used/abused
- All my hangers are custom already. The front hangers from DIY4x to convert them from 2wd to 4wd (3" height difference) and the rear is a 2.5" shackle flip from ORD. So moving them around isn't a big deal.
The past 5 or 6 trail runs - including all of BB20 - I haven't had the lockers available because the plastic line I use to feed the pressure gauge in the dash keeps rupturing. The final straw was the last run when it burst inside the heat wrap I put around it.
Turns out the plastic line I've been using is only rated for 140psi and 180°F. The twin ARB holds pressure at 150psi in the system. So the line is operating above both its limits.
I bucked up and spent $50 to replace the line with SS braided line. Also figured it would be a good time to install the air horns I've had laying around a few years.
I had to remove one of the factory horns to make room for the transmission cooler. I realized I could use the wire from that to activate the air horns. Saved me having to wire up a special switch. Generally I only have air in the system when on the trail so I won't be ripping the horns all the time.
Turns out the plastic line I've been using is only rated for 140psi and 180°F. The twin ARB holds pressure at 150psi in the system. So the line is operating above both its limits.
I bucked up and spent $50 to replace the line with SS braided line. Also figured it would be a good time to install the air horns I've had laying around a few years.
I had to remove one of the factory horns to make room for the transmission cooler. I realized I could use the wire from that to activate the air horns. Saved me having to wire up a special switch. Generally I only have air in the system when on the trail so I won't be ripping the horns all the time.
Finally fixed the bent slider from 2 years ago. Had to cut it from the rockers.
Used a big metal bar and my 270lbs to bend it back down.
Then it was on to replacing the busted window. Door full of glass.
Had to empty my little vacuum twice.
In case anyone is curious what the inside of a door looks like.
I noticed the door I took the window out of was cracked around the bolt that holds the wing window. Looks like my door is too.
Wonder what would cause that.
Used a big metal bar and my 270lbs to bend it back down.
Then it was on to replacing the busted window. Door full of glass.
Had to empty my little vacuum twice.
In case anyone is curious what the inside of a door looks like.
I noticed the door I took the window out of was cracked around the bolt that holds the wing window. Looks like my door is too.
Wonder what would cause that.
Slamming the doors for decades?
Attach a breadbox inside the engine compartment over the exhaust manifolds. That's my current setup. Where you put it will determine how much radiant heat it gets and how fast the food gets warm. It's amazing having a hot meal on the trail!
My setup is pretty ghetto compared to some I've seen. The ultimate would be a griddle type setup that attaches directly to the exhaust manifold. You could tune the heat with heat pipes or different heat sinks etc..
Could be. About the only other thing would be fatigue from the window going up and down pushing against that spot and then moving up and changing the pressure.
Honestly, I never really want to eat that much on the trail. I would never get that elaborate because I'd probably not use it. The most I ever do is haul a grill to make some brat-burgers.
I had originally planned to just swap in the door I pulled from the junkyard but I decided to keep the one on the truck for a couple of reasons. My door doesn't have any rust and the donor door does. The seals on the vent window in the donor door are pretty shot and I avoid changing those if I can help it.
I'm also kinda embracing the "character" of the truck and running with it. That doesn't mean I'm going to start beating the crap out of it, just going to accept what happens. So I'll keep the door with the hacked up notch I cut in the bottom of it at the trail head so I could open and close the door over the slider step after it got bent up.
Plus it has a good story that I'll remember from Wade's last Colorado run on Chinaman's.
It was also funny because every time I opened or closed the door, glass pieces would fall out of that hole.
I'm also kinda embracing the "character" of the truck and running with it. That doesn't mean I'm going to start beating the crap out of it, just going to accept what happens. So I'll keep the door with the hacked up notch I cut in the bottom of it at the trail head so I could open and close the door over the slider step after it got bent up.
Plus it has a good story that I'll remember from Wade's last Colorado run on Chinaman's.
It was also funny because every time I opened or closed the door, glass pieces would fall out of that hole.
Final change to the fan clutch. This will put the coil in between the factory notch and the one I had added previously.
It's a tighter fit that it may look. I have to tap in with a hammer. Then I goop a little gasket maker in there to help keep it in place.
If that's not the performance I want, then there not much more I can do. It would have to be very fine spacing to dial it in past this point which might get difficult. I might be able to use different aluminum thicknesses. That's .050" thick aluminum there. We have .063" and .080" I could try as well.
It's a tighter fit that it may look. I have to tap in with a hammer. Then I goop a little gasket maker in there to help keep it in place.
If that's not the performance I want, then there not much more I can do. It would have to be very fine spacing to dial it in past this point which might get difficult. I might be able to use different aluminum thicknesses. That's .050" thick aluminum there. We have .063" and .080" I could try as well.
I didn't think that the small amount that you moved the tab would make that noticeable of a difference. You are now the fan clutch expert!
I had a suspicion it might be more precise than one would think. I watched a video that showed a fan clutch that was factory designed to be adjustable. The adjustment had tiny tick marks that didn't look much different than a ruler, so that kinda tipped me off.I didn't think that the small amount that you moved the tab would make that noticeable of a difference. You are now the fan clutch expert!
You could move the spring like I first did based on that article as long as you don't mind the fan pretty much always being engaged. I suppose that might be good if you lived somewhere with really hot summers and running A/C and then in the winter you could still move the spring back to the factory slot.
I don't think I have posted this. I had to pull the tool box to get to the fuses for the ARB compressors. I figured while I had everything out, I would weigh it. I have 223 pounds of stuff in the tool box. Heaviest thing is the aluminum floor jack.
That number sounds pretty good for a bunch of tools and gear.
Having to pull the toolbox off to get to fuses doesn't sound good to me.
Hopefully they don't need changed frequently. It blew this time when the compressor crank bolt broke and then jammed up the motor. It actually only takes about 10 minutes to move it because I built the cool frame for it.Take out 4 bolts and it's off.That number sounds pretty good for a bunch of tools and gear.
Having to pull the toolbox off to get to fuses doesn't sound good to me.
I have to buy long bed trucks only these days due to the fact that I have to have a toolbox in everything with a couple hundred pounds of tools and all the stuff I need for the mtns and camping. If we go to camp, hunt, or anything in the mtns or on the farm I feel nekid without all my crap in my tool box. It is also a necessity when you have 4 boys running around on atvs and breaking everything all the time. LOL
