Boy, there's a joke there somewhere.
@Desert_K5 I need cup holders, I see some of those in my future.
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
Boy, there's a joke there somewhere.
@Desert_K5 I need cup holders, I see some of those in my future.
I was concerned about how to word the post.Boy, there's a joke there somewhere.
@Desert_K5 I need cup holders, I see some of those in my future.
After hearing @Stephen make a case about disposable water bottles on Dirt Every Day Extras, I started rethinking how I carry water on the trail. We bought a couple big 32oz water bottles and I needed cupholders to fit. For the summer I want to get insulated bottles which need even bigger holders. I also got a 2 gallon water jug for refill and emergency water.
It does get a little support from the shifter, so it doesn't have to carry the full weight.
Upon further reflection, I realized I need the large cupholders to replace my wood set. I need to keep the Tuffy cupholders for my coffee cup. I wouldn't want the water bottle closer than the coffee mug; that's just wrong. 
Plus this setup goes better with everything else. It crossed my mind that maybe I should clean the Tuffy cup holders while they were out, but I decided to keep the coffee stained patina.
Plus this setup goes better with everything else. It crossed my mind that maybe I should clean the Tuffy cup holders while they were out, but I decided to keep the coffee stained patina.
You need a smoother riding truck to keep the coffee spills to a minimum.
#links&coilovers
I was not going to say it. Seams a little excessive to not spill coffee.
One could also say wheeling a crew cab long box on jeep trails is excessive too.
But he's pretty good at it by seeing him in action. Then again I'm really good at spending other people's money.
No way! It sounds completely stupid but good cupholders are awesome.
Maybe just need links and coilovers for the cup holders.
Now you are thinking. Might as well...
Had a bad failure Saturday on the trail run https://ck5.com/forums/threads/another-co-snow-run-4-3.342831/#post-4157572
Trying to climb a short hill in deep snow and the engine died. It cranked but wouldn't start. @Raggedy_Ann jumped in the engine bay and we started diagnosing. Had fuel pressure but nothing squirting out the injectors. Then we noticed the RPM from the EFI was reading STALL! when cranking. That means the EFI wasn't getting a crank signal.
Nate pulled the cap off the distributor. Visually all looked good. There are 2 LEDs, one for crank and the other cam. The cam light was on, but not the crank. Nate started turning the rotor and the crank light would come on. Nate said "sorry I'm messing your timing all up" as he's rotating the rotor all over the place. It suddenly occurred to us that you shouldn't be able to rotate the rotor as you wish. Then Nate lifted up on the rotor and could pull it all the way up. We pulled the distributor and it took us a minute to realize there should be a gear on the end of it.
There is no sign of the shear pin, so I don't think it sheared. I'm guessing the pin must have come out? We didn't have the tools to get the gear or shims out of the motor. Nate couldn't really see them and we almost lost the tools we did have inside the motor. We stabbed the distributor back in and hoped it will help keep the gear from ending up somewhere else in the motor.
I'm also wondering if it's possible the gear could have broken and then the pin fell out? I don't know if the pin fits tightly in the shaft or just the gear or both. There wasn't any noise that I noticed. We were trying to climb up the deep snow when the engine just died like it had stalled.
It was a kind of freak failure. Nothing I could have done ahead of time. I did notice the newest versions of Holley's dual sync distributors are made by MSD and use a coil type pin. Mine is the first version made by whoever and used a shear pin.
I guess now I need to see if I can find all of the pieces. Looks like there should be a gear, 2 shims, and the shear pin. I figure I can put it back together with a new coil pin. I am debating about getting one of the newer versions of the dual sync. It already has the coil pin and I like the shorter cap style. I think some of my thinking is a bit psychological; hard to put a part back in your truck after it let you down. Hell, I guess I could fix the old distributor and carry it for a spare since maybe that's a thing.
Trying to climb a short hill in deep snow and the engine died. It cranked but wouldn't start. @Raggedy_Ann jumped in the engine bay and we started diagnosing. Had fuel pressure but nothing squirting out the injectors. Then we noticed the RPM from the EFI was reading STALL! when cranking. That means the EFI wasn't getting a crank signal.
Nate pulled the cap off the distributor. Visually all looked good. There are 2 LEDs, one for crank and the other cam. The cam light was on, but not the crank. Nate started turning the rotor and the crank light would come on. Nate said "sorry I'm messing your timing all up" as he's rotating the rotor all over the place. It suddenly occurred to us that you shouldn't be able to rotate the rotor as you wish. Then Nate lifted up on the rotor and could pull it all the way up. We pulled the distributor and it took us a minute to realize there should be a gear on the end of it.
There is no sign of the shear pin, so I don't think it sheared. I'm guessing the pin must have come out? We didn't have the tools to get the gear or shims out of the motor. Nate couldn't really see them and we almost lost the tools we did have inside the motor. We stabbed the distributor back in and hoped it will help keep the gear from ending up somewhere else in the motor.
I'm also wondering if it's possible the gear could have broken and then the pin fell out? I don't know if the pin fits tightly in the shaft or just the gear or both. There wasn't any noise that I noticed. We were trying to climb up the deep snow when the engine just died like it had stalled.
It was a kind of freak failure. Nothing I could have done ahead of time. I did notice the newest versions of Holley's dual sync distributors are made by MSD and use a coil type pin. Mine is the first version made by whoever and used a shear pin.
I guess now I need to see if I can find all of the pieces. Looks like there should be a gear, 2 shims, and the shear pin. I figure I can put it back together with a new coil pin. I am debating about getting one of the newer versions of the dual sync. It already has the coil pin and I like the shorter cap style. I think some of my thinking is a bit psychological; hard to put a part back in your truck after it let you down. Hell, I guess I could fix the old distributor and carry it for a spare since maybe that's a thing.
Pin, 2 washers, gear
Never had one come apart. If it broke, the pin should have parts sheared off in the gear or shaft, right?
If it sheared off, what cause it to stop enough to shear it?
I had one pin back out. Ended up replacing the gear. Caught it before it did this.
Never had one come apart. If it broke, the pin should have parts sheared off in the gear or shaft, right?
If it sheared off, what cause it to stop enough to shear it?
I had one pin back out. Ended up replacing the gear. Caught it before it did this.
Broke the gear at the pin holes and the pin spun out. If the gear stripped, it would still be there with the pin. At least 2 pieces of gear should be found. I have seen clean breaks like this not affect the engine. Because it was instant catastrophic failure of the gear. The engine did not have a chance to travel the parts through it. Cranking it should not be enough to hurt it. You just have to be sure you found everything. Put the pieces back together as you find them.
It did occur to me that I was doing all that cranking with no oil pressure. 
I forgot to mention, I was really happy to have the 2 battery setup. It had enough juice to winch out of my holes so we could start towing it. Ran the lights all the way to the parking area. Winched the truck onto the trailer, and then backed it off the trailer. Plus all the cranking we were doing while trying to diagnose.
I forgot to mention, I was really happy to have the 2 battery setup. It had enough juice to winch out of my holes so we could start towing it. Ran the lights all the way to the parking area. Winched the truck onto the trailer, and then backed it off the trailer. Plus all the cranking we were doing while trying to diagnose.
Maybe Nate is so powerful he sheared the pin messing with the rotor. Aside from that, I would think it would take a lot of RPM to shear one. I rarely rev the motor over 3500, and I don't think I was doing anything more than that. Maybe it was revving it up, spinning tires, and then letting off the gas several times trying to bust thru? You wouldn't normally rev a motor up and then let off the pedal quickly.
I was wondering if a gear could break like that and spin the pin out. I'm very curious to see what it looks like in there. But not today. It's Easter and I want to relax.
I have seen it a couple of times before. Only on BBC. I do not know why.
Rev the engine to valve float, let off and go into second on a manual. On the revs and off the throttle constantly. Should not be he issue.
Rev the engine to valve float, let off and go into second on a manual. On the revs and off the throttle constantly. Should not be he issue.
Which distributor are you running? The holley dual sync? That's what I have in the shop truck, which coincidentally killed another IACV in the sniper...
Can't wait to drop the LS in there. Too many other projects going on right now though.
Can't wait to drop the LS in there. Too many other projects going on right now though.
