CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond

Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
Plus 90% of the trips, I don't have anyone in the back seats
 
and ORD said kevlar bushings were so much better . . . :dunno:

and MAN to MAN ..... your shaft looks a bit dry :doah:
As David pointed out leaf bushings are a maintenance item and when you push a rig like MRK5 does I don't think any type of bushing is going to last more than a couple of seasons.
 
This happened on the way back home from Moab.

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Couldn't get fuel into the tank without jacking it up. After that I started thinking about my fill ups at the gas stations and I think my fill tube must be sloped just a little off. I think there have been a lot of times that I didn't get the tank full even though it was backup up the full hose. It accounts for why I keep running out of fuel when I think there should be enough.

I'm going to try replacing the factory filler with a straight one. The factory has a dip down right away which makes the tube too flat.

Factory:
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Flat bed style:
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Also interesting side note. GM used 1-3/4" filler hose on these trucks which in searching for options it seems that's a pretty uncommon size. Seem to find a lot of 1-1/2", 2", or 2-1/4".

I also learned the 2 items I carry to get gas out of a fuel tank don't work. Neither one of them would feed in thru the filler neck.

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Gonna have to come up with a new plan. I'm thinking about rigging up an electric fuel pump with a hose that will feed in through the filler. Then put some wires on the pump that could be clamped to the battery for power. The best scenario would be if the fuel pump was also a spare for the pump in my tank. But it might be tricky to get a hose on the pump suction of an in-tank pump.
 
Also, figure out why my fuel level gauge isn't working. I'm thinking it's because it's still running through the fuel tank selector switch. Maybe all that wiring and connectors messes with the signal. I'm going to run a new wire straight from the tank to the dash.

I should also do the same with the fuel pump power wire; run a new wire from the EFI relay to the pump. I was kinda planning to leave it as is because I can use the tank selector switch on the dash to disable the fuel pump.
 
I used this one on Sancho after having issues with a 1.5" version. I can leave the pump unattended and the tank will fill without shutting off.
I paid $59 bucks for this in Feb of 2021, crazy it's $132 now.
 
I used this one on Sancho after having issues with a 1.5" version. I can leave the pump unattended and the tank will fill without shutting off.
I paid $59 bucks for this in Feb of 2021, crazy it's $132 now.
Wow, that is a price jump. Would it be possible for you to measure the distance from the mounting flange to the inside of the 90?

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I'm wondering if there's a chance it would clear my tool box. If so, that would make it work a lot better.
 
Wow, that is a price jump. Would it be possible for you to measure the distance from the mounting flange to the inside of the 90?

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I'm wondering if there's a chance it would clear my tool box. If so, that would make it work a lot better.

I can get a measurement that’s pretty close, it passes through my bed floor so it’s not completely accessible. They also sell straight filler necks and you can buy a stainless 90 on Amazon.
 
if truck has 2 tank switch the guage and power feeds do go threw there . so yes redo the wiring and make it 1 setup and ditch the switch . the wires can be done at the switch so no need to run new for the gauge . just find the 1 you have hooked up now and crimp it to the input to the dash .
 
if truck has 2 tank switch the guage and power feeds do go threw there . so yes redo the wiring and make it 1 setup and ditch the switch . the wires can be done at the switch so no need to run new for the gauge . just find the 1 you have hooked up now and crimp it to the input to the dash .
My new motto! "Ditch the switch!" :D

That is truck, I could just basically reroute the current wiring. I think the way the TBI transfer valves are wired is so complicated. I need to go back and double check I have it on the correct wire even.
 
Did you look here? I get most of my stuff from them.

And yes, the necks are all smaller now, unless you get a diesel neck.

 
I had to look at a schematic but yes that is kinda confusing. Switch in dash changes which pump operates and also changes the selector valve which looks like it has contacts that switch which sending unit it reads off of.
 
Did you look here? I get most of my stuff from them.

And yes, the necks are all smaller now, unless you get a diesel neck.

Yes, that actually is where I was looking at getting the straight version.

I had to look at a schematic but yes that is kinda confusing. Switch in dash changes which pump operates and also changes the selector valve which looks like it has contacts that switch which sending unit it reads off of.
Sounds right. Just seems like the method they used means running a bunch of extra wiring.
 
When I went to a single tank, I ripped all the extra shituff out. Made life much easier.
 
Now the Pritchett run is officially memorialized.

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The full collection.

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Also added Day Canyon Point. It's a decently difficult trail and it would make a good run for people new to Moab. I was hoping to finally run down Long Canyon trail but it was closed. :(
 
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