agreed, it's a proven combo on these rigs (I have two with high pressure pumps myself). Fix your venting issue and you'll be fine.
CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
agreed, it's a proven combo on these rigs (I have two with high pressure pumps myself). Fix your venting issue and you'll be fine.
You're playing into my lazy side....
I'm just suggesting, spend your time somewhere more effective. 
So I have a 340LPH pump in a 87 tbi tank with a sender and my vent is to the atmosphere and a stock 1982 cap. Zero issues even on my monkey rigged fuel lines.
Ep381 ac delco pump on 87 tbi sender in k30 saddle tank . Vent up front and high on firewall . 3/8 feed 5/16 return and stock 87 cap . No problems or popps or vent woosh when cap opening .
Here’s my set up.
Mine has always had pressure when the cap comes off. Like every single time. Was true with the saddle tanks too. But that stands to reason if the vent line hasn't been flowing well for who knows how long.
Finally have the sending unit updated. I did a couple of things to help keep this from being an issue again.
I picked up a Walbro GSS342 pump and put the smallest HydraMat I could get on it.
I had to trim the rubber isolator to fit.
My thinking is that if the sender bends again the HydraMat will help the pump still pull from the bottom of the tank.
I also went ahead and added an aluminum square rod brace. Got lucky and found a drop piece we had laying around.
I also have the vent line set up with just a filter on the end.
FYI, Walbro is now being branded TI Automotive. When I got the box I thought I had been screwed but apparently they bought out Walbro several years ago and recently decided to start dropping the name. Aside from the name change nothing else is changing.
The sender I got is a no name brand from ebay. I'm not super thrilled with the quality of the wiring. The insulation at least seems cheap. It works, but we'll see for how long I guess. I'll hang on to the Spectra sender as a backup.
FYI, anyone looking for a hydramat, @folkenheath can get you good pricing on them.
I picked up a Walbro GSS342 pump and put the smallest HydraMat I could get on it.
I had to trim the rubber isolator to fit.
My thinking is that if the sender bends again the HydraMat will help the pump still pull from the bottom of the tank.
I also went ahead and added an aluminum square rod brace. Got lucky and found a drop piece we had laying around.
I also have the vent line set up with just a filter on the end.
FYI, Walbro is now being branded TI Automotive. When I got the box I thought I had been screwed but apparently they bought out Walbro several years ago and recently decided to start dropping the name. Aside from the name change nothing else is changing.
The sender I got is a no name brand from ebay. I'm not super thrilled with the quality of the wiring. The insulation at least seems cheap. It works, but we'll see for how long I guess. I'll hang on to the Spectra sender as a backup.
FYI, anyone looking for a hydramat, @folkenheath can get you good pricing on them.
Also, I apparently like to prank myself. When I first tested the new pump, it didn't work. I was sure it was the sending unit since I was already impressed. I ran a wire from the battery to the pump and it worked.
Then I realized I had 2 plugs next to each other. One for the new wires I ran and another left from the previous wiring.
And of course the wrong plug is the one you can see from the ground.
Then I realized I had 2 plugs next to each other. One for the new wires I ran and another left from the previous wiring.
And of course the wrong plug is the one you can see from the ground.
my walbro for sancho was marked TI and I came to same conclusion after some investigation online.
Your plug can be anti theft if you can get to it and remember it the next time you go to drive it.
You would think that the mechanic would have dummy proofed that somehow.Also, I apparently like to prank myself. When I first tested the new pump, it didn't work. I was sure it was the sending unit since I was already impressed. I ran a wire from the battery to the pump and it worked.
Then I realized I had 2 plugs next to each other. One for the new wires I ran and another left from the previous wiring.
View attachment 395262
And of course the wrong plug is the one you can see from the ground.
You should have a talk with him.
Sad thing is I don't remember doing it in the first place.
Welcome to "every day" of old age.
Old farts.
Those are the smelliest. And wrong thread.
The scarier thing is that I also didn't remember running a new power feed along with the sending unit wire.
I have been altering the boats wiring diagram as I build the harness. It will be laminated and stored in the boat.
Luckily I have done that with some of the stuff I've done which has come in handy. It's all electronic, but I should think about printing it out because I'm still a printed paper kind of person. In this case I only remembered thinking that I should run a new power wire to the fuel pump to completely eliminate all of the fuel tank selector stuff, I didn't remember actually doing it.
I was figuring I was too lazy to have done it, I should give myself more credit.
Replaced alternator and voltage is reading 14+ again.
I added up the electric load:
• Linc fan high 36 amps
• Volvo fan high 27 amps
• ARB twin compressor 50 amps
• Trans cooler fan 15 amps
• EFI 25 amps
• Ignition box 6 amps
• Stereo 7 amps
• CB 1 amp
• TOTAL 168 amps
Those were the things I could think of that would running while on the trail. The numbers are kind of a worst case scenario, but not impossible. The fan draws are both on high. The ARB draw is at the upper pressure range. But running a trail like Pritchett at Blazer Bash the cooling fans will run on high and the compressor will be getting used. On top of that, I could be sitting at idle for long periods of time.
I was looking for 200 amp options and came across Powermaster HPR series. It's a direct replacement for my 12si and it's rated at 175 amp. The real kicker is it will put out 150 amps at idle.
The detractor for some might be how it gets wired. There's a ground lug right on top of the case. The instructions say to use the same size wire as the power feed. In my case, that's 4ga.
Just recently I noticed Powermaster is recommending the belt be tight enough you can turn the motor with a wrench on the pulley nut.
That ends up much tighter than I would have thought. Going by my best judgment initially, the belt was too loose when I did the test.
I added up the electric load:
• Linc fan high 36 amps
• Volvo fan high 27 amps
• ARB twin compressor 50 amps
• Trans cooler fan 15 amps
• EFI 25 amps
• Ignition box 6 amps
• Stereo 7 amps
• CB 1 amp
• TOTAL 168 amps
Those were the things I could think of that would running while on the trail. The numbers are kind of a worst case scenario, but not impossible. The fan draws are both on high. The ARB draw is at the upper pressure range. But running a trail like Pritchett at Blazer Bash the cooling fans will run on high and the compressor will be getting used. On top of that, I could be sitting at idle for long periods of time.
I was looking for 200 amp options and came across Powermaster HPR series. It's a direct replacement for my 12si and it's rated at 175 amp. The real kicker is it will put out 150 amps at idle.
The detractor for some might be how it gets wired. There's a ground lug right on top of the case. The instructions say to use the same size wire as the power feed. In my case, that's 4ga.
Just recently I noticed Powermaster is recommending the belt be tight enough you can turn the motor with a wrench on the pulley nut.
That ends up much tighter than I would have thought. Going by my best judgment initially, the belt was too loose when I did the test.
