Skin the hood. It looks like it'll clear. You can lose some good weight there.
CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
The hood is something I haven't made much of a plan for yet. At this point I just want easy. Haha! I'm fully prepared to go to Utah this year without a hood!
On the previous engine the reservoir was right in a void between under hood braces. The vent on the cap would still occasionally bump the hood.
On the previous engine the reservoir was right in a void between under hood braces. The vent on the cap would still occasionally bump the hood.
Cut a hole, all the diesel boys do it
Hard to see where yours sits exactly from your Pic but mine clears the hood
Looks pretty similar.
I was thinking it would be nice if I could find a little more compact coolant reservoir then I remembered a box I've had sitting on a shelf for almost 10 years; the dust was thick.
I think I had intended to put it on the 66 as it has no recovery tank. If I'm not getting it done after this many years I think it was fair game for the crew cab to use it
I installed a new throttle cable. The one I used with the old 454 was the 89 crew cab application for a factory 454 which is shorter than the TBI 350 version I ordered for this engine. The 454 version was just a little to taut. Here's the difference, just a couple inches.
I need to drill out the hole on the throttle blade connection to fit the L29 stud.
I think I had intended to put it on the 66 as it has no recovery tank. If I'm not getting it done after this many years I think it was fair game for the crew cab to use it
I installed a new throttle cable. The one I used with the old 454 was the 89 crew cab application for a factory 454 which is shorter than the TBI 350 version I ordered for this engine. The 454 version was just a little to taut. Here's the difference, just a couple inches.
I need to drill out the hole on the throttle blade connection to fit the L29 stud.
Yes that's a purple ground wire above. Can't let a perfectly good wire that already has ring terminals go to waste. 
I was looking at the temp switch in the braided line, is that Derale ? How old is that switch? I have not had good luck with them lasting.
The derale switches suck.
Could always spray paint it, you know extra paint on the shelf not going to waste.Yes that's a purple ground wire above. Can't let a perfectly good wire that already has ring terminals go to waste.
Mt feelings too. Any other brands that might be better?
I actually thought about painting it!
It is and I've been wondering if it was functioning. I could never tell if the fan was spinning of it's own accord or if the radiator fans were causing it to spin.
I haven't come up with a better way to activate the trans cooler fan. I've thought a little about using the radiator fan trigger since the trans temp tends to follow coolant temp.
You could just let it run all the time too. No matter what you do wiring in a bypass switch is a smart move.
Had one step backward yesterday. I realized I was being a dummy about how the throttle cable attaches to the throttle body. The little stud thing is not right.
I noticed it didn't quite line up with the cable and then I figure out it only opens the throttle about 30%.
Turns out the cable is supposed to run in that quarter circle channel. The cable I have, which is specific to the crew cab, won't work in that channel. I'm going to need a cable for the donor truck application. Pictures indicate it should still work on the pedal end.
I got the oil system primed. Had to use a corded drill for the first time in ages because the cordless wouldn't fit.
It occurred to me I had no indication of fuel pressure without the Terminator hooked up to a laptop or the digital dash. I decided to install a little oil pressure gauge from a motorcycle. I think I might just leave it installed for backup incase the digital dash is ever in question.
I didn't want to pull valve covers to verify oil flow so I went by time. I ran the drill 2 minutes, rotated the crank 90°, ran the drill 2 minutes, and repeated for 2 full crank revolutions. That equated to about 16 minutes of priming. I pulled the oil cap in the valve cover and I was able to see oil dripping from the one rocker I could see. It should be pretty well primed at this point. I found one reference from Summit's tech section that said it could take up to 20 minutes to prime a big block but mine is not a "dry" never been run engine either.
Took a little video of the oil pressure gauge just for the heck of it.
Today I need to set up a temporary battery for running the engine. Then I will run the fuel pump to check for leaks and set the pressure. Connect the harness to the Terminator and load the tune for it. And finally I should be ready to bring the thunder!
I noticed it didn't quite line up with the cable and then I figure out it only opens the throttle about 30%.
Turns out the cable is supposed to run in that quarter circle channel. The cable I have, which is specific to the crew cab, won't work in that channel. I'm going to need a cable for the donor truck application. Pictures indicate it should still work on the pedal end.
I got the oil system primed. Had to use a corded drill for the first time in ages because the cordless wouldn't fit.
It occurred to me I had no indication of fuel pressure without the Terminator hooked up to a laptop or the digital dash. I decided to install a little oil pressure gauge from a motorcycle. I think I might just leave it installed for backup incase the digital dash is ever in question.
I didn't want to pull valve covers to verify oil flow so I went by time. I ran the drill 2 minutes, rotated the crank 90°, ran the drill 2 minutes, and repeated for 2 full crank revolutions. That equated to about 16 minutes of priming. I pulled the oil cap in the valve cover and I was able to see oil dripping from the one rocker I could see. It should be pretty well primed at this point. I found one reference from Summit's tech section that said it could take up to 20 minutes to prime a big block but mine is not a "dry" never been run engine either.
Took a little video of the oil pressure gauge just for the heck of it.
Today I need to set up a temporary battery for running the engine. Then I will run the fuel pump to check for leaks and set the pressure. Connect the harness to the Terminator and load the tune for it. And finally I should be ready to bring the thunder!
I definitely want a manual override.
I have read the throttle cable from the 96-00 gmt400 body clip in the firewall the same . So check this out .
You could use one of the input outputs on the Holley to turn it on at a certain temp.
For those cables, the hole on the end of the channel on the TB plate is for a cylindrical plug (underneath the channel), with a set screw to attach to the cable. So the cable goes through the channel and then the plug sits in that hole. If you have the cable length you can cut the current end of the cable off and get the cylinder plug. Or use your current cable sheathing and just get a new cable and the end attachments.
yes VW bugs use this cylinder with set screw on all the air cooled single carb engines
